- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Installed new Bilstein B4s. Awesome ride, definitely stiffer not just b/c they are new compared to tired old struts.
Couple of devil in the details for future reference, which Im surprise no one has mentioned before
-The design of the OE strut base is superior to B4s. The OE base has a raised ring/lip to fit square into the knuckle. The B4 has a tiny bead weld that you must make sure dont get tucked into the knuckle. If not careful, you may install them lower into the knuckle then intended that little nub serves a purpose.
-OE strut uses a longer alignment tab with a curved/hook opening to allow the knuckle bolt to pass through. The B4 alignment tab just abruptly ends short. Its long enough to ensure alignment, just shows the aftermarket-ness.
-OE strut uses a hard dust cover that is sized to fit over the body AND sized to fit/reuse the OE dust boot. The B4 hard dust cover is small and short and is not wide enough to fit the OE dust boot. You need to mod the OE hard dust cover if you want to reuse it. I wrapped duct tape to make the B4 body a little thicker (this tells me the OE strut body has a larger diameter), then drilled 4 holes on the sides, at the very top of inside channel, to allow water to drain. Will fit as tight as how many rounds of duct tape you apply.
-Between Moog vs Monroe, I opted to try the Monroe strut bearing. Comparing Monroe vs OE strut bearing, I feel the design of the OE strut bearing is FAR superior. It has alignment notches to fit into the top of the strut tower. Most important, the casing and how it is seals is better. Returned the Monroe and opted to rebuild the OE strut bearing.
FWIW, unless there is physical damage (ran super dry where the balls left groves on the race), the strut bearing is very easy to rebuild. One tip I recommend is to BE VERY CAREFUL and avoid using a magnetic pick-up tool on any of the 36 tiny balls. The magnetic may leave the balls magnetized and cling tiny metal/debri on it. You must pack the new bearing inside to avoid moving air. Soak the bearing cage, balls, and race in brake fluid and use a clean tooth brush to clean the bearing cage and housing thoroughly. Apply new grease and it is good to go! Its really that simple and it is a much better quality/design bearing than aftermarket.
Sorry, dirty hands so no pics If anyone else installs B4 or decides to rebuild their OE strut bearing, post some pics for reference. I failed to measure the piston travel. Hope someone can note that.
Couple of devil in the details for future reference, which Im surprise no one has mentioned before
-The design of the OE strut base is superior to B4s. The OE base has a raised ring/lip to fit square into the knuckle. The B4 has a tiny bead weld that you must make sure dont get tucked into the knuckle. If not careful, you may install them lower into the knuckle then intended that little nub serves a purpose.
-OE strut uses a longer alignment tab with a curved/hook opening to allow the knuckle bolt to pass through. The B4 alignment tab just abruptly ends short. Its long enough to ensure alignment, just shows the aftermarket-ness.
-OE strut uses a hard dust cover that is sized to fit over the body AND sized to fit/reuse the OE dust boot. The B4 hard dust cover is small and short and is not wide enough to fit the OE dust boot. You need to mod the OE hard dust cover if you want to reuse it. I wrapped duct tape to make the B4 body a little thicker (this tells me the OE strut body has a larger diameter), then drilled 4 holes on the sides, at the very top of inside channel, to allow water to drain. Will fit as tight as how many rounds of duct tape you apply.
-Between Moog vs Monroe, I opted to try the Monroe strut bearing. Comparing Monroe vs OE strut bearing, I feel the design of the OE strut bearing is FAR superior. It has alignment notches to fit into the top of the strut tower. Most important, the casing and how it is seals is better. Returned the Monroe and opted to rebuild the OE strut bearing.
FWIW, unless there is physical damage (ran super dry where the balls left groves on the race), the strut bearing is very easy to rebuild. One tip I recommend is to BE VERY CAREFUL and avoid using a magnetic pick-up tool on any of the 36 tiny balls. The magnetic may leave the balls magnetized and cling tiny metal/debri on it. You must pack the new bearing inside to avoid moving air. Soak the bearing cage, balls, and race in brake fluid and use a clean tooth brush to clean the bearing cage and housing thoroughly. Apply new grease and it is good to go! Its really that simple and it is a much better quality/design bearing than aftermarket.
Sorry, dirty hands so no pics If anyone else installs B4 or decides to rebuild their OE strut bearing, post some pics for reference. I failed to measure the piston travel. Hope someone can note that.