2018 CX-5 Low Speed Transmission Hesitation/Jerk/Lurch

New to Mazda here with a 2021 CX-5 FWD (non-Turbo) as of a couple weeks ago.

I'm also experiencing jerkiness and occasional hesitation under 30 mph. Can't figure out whether I missed it on the test drive or what, but it's enough to concern me about longevity. Not so much that I find the driving feel a total dealbreaker -- I just want to make it well over 100k without issues, and this doesn't inspire confidence that the drivetrain is operating smooth as butter.

Anyway, just chiming in since I see lots of discussion here and elsewhere, but very few have mentioned it on a 2021. I definitely get the "brakes dragging but not really" feeling at parking lot speeds consistently, some jerks at start/stop that I think most reasonably perceptive new car owners would find surprising, and also occasional jerkiness at low speeds... but it's not consistent.

FWIW, I'm coming from mainly Honda ATs in the past. I made the switch in large part because I'm terrified of long-term reliability on their new CVTs, hoping I didn't unknowingly trade one pitfall for another...
 
I have a CX5 2019 and also jerks/lurching at low speed. Very annoying. My previous car was a Sonata and never experienced something like this. I am seriously considering going back to Hyundai.
 
I have been wondering why do all of those transmission jerk / lurching complaints started from MY 2018 CX-5, the time when Mazda modified the SkyActiv-Drive transmission to accommodate new cylinder deactivation? Not sure the 2.5T’s transmission made the same change, but I believe the problem has to be related to the change to the transmission since 2018.
 
I have been wondering why do all of those transmission jerk / lurching complaints started from MY 2018 CX-5, the time when Mazda modified the SkyActiv-Drive transmission to accommodate new cylinder deactivation? Not sure the 2.5T’s transmission made the same change, but I believe the problem has to be related to the change to the transmission since 2018.

It has to be a result of the changes to make CD work. I honestly don’t notice much jerkiness, maybe a small amount in my 2020 GT. As I’ve mentioned in other threads, I do notice the CD transitions below 40mph though. The transmissions in My 2019 GTR is smoother over all. The 19 does have some shift flare into 2nd when below operating temp that the 20 does not.
 
I'm also experiencing jerkiness and occasional hesitation under 30 mph. Can't figure out whether I missed it on the test drive or what, but it's enough to concern me about longevity. I just want to make it well over 100k without issues, and this doesn't inspire confidence that the drivetrain is operating smooth as butter.
Honestly, you won't know until you get there. In this forum or any other you'll find posters reporting many years and many miles of trouble free driving while others report serial issues for the same make/model/drive train.

I take solace in the fact that Consumer Reports has given the CX-5 it's highest rating for reliability in all 6 drive train categories for 6 years running except for 4 out of 5 (second highest ratings) for 2017 Engine-Minor and 2019 Drive System. I would not have bought my 2020 if the CR drive train reliability ratings were not above average. CR's methodology is described here:


Cylinder deactivation, if that is the cause of the oft reported jerkiness, is in it's 4th. year. However, I find it interesting to note that drivers have reported similar issues in these pages with the turbo engine, much fewer of which are sold, that does not have CD, while 2.5L normally aspirated drivers report that the issue is alleviated when driving in the higher revving sport mode where CD still operates. I'm in agreement with the latter observation.

I'm also reminded of my 2004 Sienna V6 equipped with a 5-speed automatic that had the annoying habit of gear hunting between 1st. and 2nd. gears, something that never bothered my wife by the way, and which was rectified in my 2014 with Toyota's next gen 6-speed. That 2004 vehicle was trouble-free for 10 years and 150,000 miles at trade in.

The only concession I would make with your FWD is have trans fluid service done every 50k- 60k miles rather than no interval for the "life of the vehicle", but I would apply that rule of thumb to any vehicle purporting lifetime trans fluid.
 
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OK, finally an update:

I had an appointment today with the dealer for the trans. issues. The mechanic said if the fluid was low, it would set a code. The mechanic and service manager drove the car and both said there were no issues with the car (which I anticipated). No diagnostic codes set.

I'm not a novice car person, I rebuilt my first engine at 19, completed 2 frame off restorations of 1986 Buick Grand Nationals and have done everything but a transmission rebuild so I know how cars work.

I say the transmission programming is at issue. I notice when pulling from a stop and accelerating fairly hard, I need to "floor it".....it will then downshift and move the car. It's almost like I'm in a manual trans. pulling out in 3rd gear and need to downshift. That means to me the transmission programming is off. Now the question is, how do we get Mazda to fix the issue. ??

IMHO, I don't think this will affect transmission longevity. Please post any updates or symptoms.
 
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I say the transmission programming is at issue. I notice when pulling from a stop and accelerating fairly hard, I need to "floor it" to get the car to move.....it will then downshift and move the car. It's almost like I'm in a manual trans. pulling out in 3rd gear and need to downshift. IMHO, I don't think this will affect transmission longevity. Please post any updates or symptoms.
To recap, I had TSB 05-002/20 applied. That TSB first came to may attention in @Dark5tar post #202 above. Just to clarify, is that the one you had applied?

After two months and 1,500 miles the positive affects have not changed since my post #218 on the subject. No "wearing off" as some have posted. What I experienced is little different than your symptoms--my vehicle would not downshift when a lug occured; I'd just have to accelerate out of it. Besides, I'd get lugs in first gear and there's no gear to downshift to from there.

So, if you had that TSB applied to a 2019 AWD why would you not see some change compared to my 2020 AWD experience? It's the same drive train. I have a question and a conjecture that I'll leave to folks with hands-on experience to confirm or deny:

Would this TSB re-flash the entire engine and transmission control code to a most current version? Or is it a case where, "If base code is A version, apply B code changes; if base code is X, apply Y code changes." And even if it was an entire re-flash of the engine code, but different versions of the trans code are floating around, different results may occur--they have to work in concert.
 
Hello, Correct, it was TSB 05-002/20 that I had applied.

I concur with a "lug" but my car will shift into a lower gear or two; even though it should be in the lowest gear when pulling from a stop.
 
Get this slightly on my uk 2018 diesel but as previous replied said torque of the diesel makes it less intrusive and using manual override at slow parking speeds cancels out - seems to be a quirk in the auto box torque converter design - now I am used to it I do not even notice it 😏
 
Hello, Correct, it was TSB 05-002/20 that I had applied.
I concur with a "lug" but my car will shift into a lower gear or two; even though it should be in the lowest gear when pulling from a stop.
Were you in the car when the mechanic and service manager tested it? If not, you should be driving to recreate the problem for them. Other than that, I'm out of ideas.
 
I have a 2018 Mazda CX-5 (Sport) and was suffering from a low-speed transmission hesitation problem. I sort of fixed it by adding 2 oz of transmission fluid (ATF type FZ bought from the Mazda dealership). I know it is a little bit overfilled by adding an additional 2 oz of transmission fluid, but the hesitation/jerk indeed improved from my personal experience.
 
Just giving everyone a little bit of details about my journey with this problem, since I have been learned a lot by reading other people's comments. To solve the low-speed transmission hesitation problem, I went to the dealership and was told nothing was wrong with my car, and there was no error code in the system. They also update the software for my PCM and TCM. But the problem is still there. After coming back from the dealership, I did my transmission fluid change (ODO=46K) by myself (with replacing the transmission fluid filter by removing the bottom pan). I measured how much I collected and filled it up with the same amount (~4.5 QT, if you do not remove the pan you should only need ~3.5QT). I could feel the car was smoother, but it did not solve the low-speed transmission hesitation. I also did the throttle body cleaning myself since when you do the DIY transmission fluid change; it just takes you very minimum effort to clean the throttle body. The last thing I did which I feel is the key to solving the hesitation, is by adding an additional 2 oz of transmission fluid. I have been driving my car for a few weeks, and I do feel a significant improvement. I do not know the reason behind it. But, it seems I solved my problem.

NOTICE: People who want to try this need to keep in mind that I am not sure whether adding an additional 2 oz of transmission fluid will cause any potential damage to your transmission or not. I am not taking any responsibility for my comments. I am not a professional mechanic. I am only a car care nut who is enjoying doing car maintenance myself.
 
Just giving everyone a little bit of details about my journey with this problem, since I have been learned a lot by reading other people's comments. To solve the low-speed transmission hesitation problem, I went to the dealership and was told nothing was wrong with my car, and there was no error code in the system. They also update the software for my PCM and TCM. But the problem is still there. After coming back from the dealership, I did my transmission fluid change (ODO=46K) by myself (with replacing the transmission fluid filter by removing the bottom pan). I measured how much I collected and filled it up with the same amount (~4.5 QT, if you do not remove the pan you should only need ~3.5QT). I could feel the car was smoother, but it did not solve the low-speed transmission hesitation. I also did the throttle body cleaning myself since when you do the DIY transmission fluid change; it just takes you very minimum effort to clean the throttle body. The last thing I did which I feel is the key to solving the hesitation, is by adding an additional 2 oz of transmission fluid. I have been driving my car for a few weeks, and I do feel a significant improvement. I do not know the reason behind it. But, it seems I solved my problem.

NOTICE: People who want to try this need to keep in mind that I am not sure whether adding an additional 2 oz of transmission fluid will cause any potential damage to your transmission or not. I am not taking any responsibility for my comments. I am not a professional mechanic. I am only a car care nut who is enjoying doing car maintenance myself.
note that the total ATF fluid capacity is close to two GALLONS including the fluid that's held in the torque converter. So 2 ounces isn't going to matter as far as overfilling. What does the dipstick show when measured on level ground with ATF temp of 122°F?

Also note that you only changed about half the fluid. Since only half (or less) drains out of the pan, and we don't have a commercial trans fluid flushing machine, we have to do it by draining and filling around 3 times. If you drop the pan and change the filter on the 3rd time, you get an extra quart out, so you include that extra quart when filling, and by the time it's all said and done, you have around 90% fresh fluid in the system.
 
I did my transmission fluid change (ODO=46K) by myself (with replacing the transmission fluid filter by removing the bottom pan). I measured how much I collected and filled it up with the same amount (~4.5 QT, if you do not remove the pan you should only need ~3.5QT).
Here’s the problem right there IMO. Those who bothered to check the factory ATF level before any ATF changes have found the factory fill is low! Added the info that you said ~4,5 quarts needed for dropping pan, and ~3.5 quarts for a simple drain-and-fill, whereas 4.7 quarts or more and 3.75 quarts are a common ATF quantity to fill reported.

Here’s an example reported by @FerrariF1:

I checked the factory-filled ATF on my 2.5T (2021 GT Turbo). Not easy but doable. Had 5 extensions and a 10mm socket, took the securing bolt off the dipstick, and was able to slither my arms down and pull the dipstick out. Not THAT difficult in the grand scheme of things.

The level was PERFECT, slightly overfilled by 1mm on the dipstick, just the way I like it. I prefer slightly overfilled than slightly underfilled.

Not all transmissions are underfilled from factory it seems. Glad I checked and have peace of mind.

You guys were right, I checked the ATF while idling and it was low. The ATF was at around 25-30 C (77-86 F). I added 600ml and it came up to the middle of the 2 lines, so perfect. I don't think ATF expansion is that great that I need to check at 122F, and I'm guessing if I were to check at 122F it would be closer to the top line.

I also changed the rear diff and front transfer case, and they both took about 0.5L each. Not too complicated.

Update: I warmed up the transmission fluid to 51C / 123F and re-checked level (car idling, level surface) and it was just below the Full line. MS Paint artwork attached.

Summary: added 600ml to factory fluid to bring it up to full level. I did not drain and fill since car has 30K km / 18K miles.

View attachment 320245
2B81FDC1-AD3D-42B6-AF88-3739B6D69709.gif

So you really want to follow the official procedure with a proper OBDII reader for ATF temperature checking the ATF level. You situation could be that the additional 2 fl oz added just make it over the threshold and eliminated the transmission hesitation / jerk / lurch which is a common symptom of low ATF level.
 
Here’s the problem right there IMO. Those who bothered to check the factory ATF level before any ATF changes have found the factory fill is low! Added the info that you said ~4,5 quarts needed for dropping pan, and ~3.5 quarts for a simple drain-and-fill, whereas 4.7 quarts or more and 3.75 quarts are a common ATF quantity to fill reported.

Here’s an example reported by @FerrariF1:







So you really want to follow the official procedure with a proper OBDII reader for ATF temperature checking the ATF level. You situation could be that the additional 2 fl oz added just make it over the threshold and eliminated the transmission hesitation / jerk / lurch which is a common symptom of low ATF level.
Thanks for your great comments. I will check it the way you suggested.

Some of the CX-5 owners suffering from transmission hesitation may just need to add ATF. We all assume that the level filled up by Mazda Manufacturing (Made in Japan) should be perfect, but it may not be the case for some owners. I have gone to the Mazda dealership twice to complain about the transmission problem. Their mechanic just checked the system error code without checking anything about the transmission fluid level. And tell us the car is doing what it suppose to do.

I am sure the transmission hesitation some owners reported here may not be due to the ATF level, but it is worth a try if you have not checked it.
 

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