Don't forget the anti-seize for the threads, makes life easier in 100K....
I stand corrected but I will continue to use an anti-seize product.
https://www.driven2automotive.com/b...se-copper-grease-when-installing-spark-plugs/
From what I gather reading between the lines recommendation is that they already have a thread protection on plug. In other applications ( harsh environment) the plugs still get corroded and diffucult to remove over years. Main reason NOT to use anti-seize is we are too stupid to torque properly. If you know what you are doing anti-seize can't hurt. May not be needed in an engine bay with a good plug boot but it won't hurt. My expierence comes from Supercharged boat BBC boat engines (read high heat cycles), Off road trucks (mud water) and dirt bikes. Either way overtight is not good. You should be able to feel the crush washer or the change in rate or torque vs rotaion on a tapered seat and know when is when. IMHO an anti-sezie is good preventative for long term removal success. Do as you wish.
I stand corrected but I will continue to use an anti-seize product.
https://www.driven2automotive.com/b...se-copper-grease-when-installing-spark-plugs/
From what I gather reading between the lines recommendation is that they already have a thread protection on plug. In other applications ( harsh environment) the plugs still get corroded and diffucult to remove over years. Main reason NOT to use anti-seize is we are too stupid to torque properly. If you know what you are doing anti-seize can't hurt. May not be needed in an engine bay with a good plug boot but it won't hurt. My expierence comes from Supercharged boat BBC boat engines (read high heat cycles), Off road trucks (mud water) and dirt bikes. Either way overtight is not good. You should be able to feel the crush washer or the change in rate or torque vs rotaion on a tapered seat and know when is when. IMHO an anti-sezie is good preventative for long term removal success. Do as you wish.
25% less torque with anti-seize
https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf
12 to 14 ftlbf without anti-seize
9 to 10.5 ftlbf w/anti-seize
Might be easier using a 1/4 inch torque wrench at inch/lbs at those numbers...
108 in lbf - 126 in lbf
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61277.html
You may need adapters if your sockets don't match.
Get the NGK plugs (the OEM plugs I ordered from Med Center Mazda for $100 had the NGK model numbers on it!) for $50. Take 30 minutes and do it yourself.
Problem solved.
Discussed this topic at length with my son and his co-workers (AP licensed jet Mechanics). Often recommended not to use anti-seize as overtorque and or backing out is an issue on low torque applications. They safety wire many fasteners but that is a different story. Many fasteners get a coatig of Milk of Magnesia as an anti-seize. Don't shoot the messenger here, google it for yourself. It is a thing and commonly used on igniters inside of jet engines. Low torque high heat application. There is even a part number for it if no Walgreens around!
Either way I will use a good paste and be aware of torque settings or degrees from seated. I still think there is benefit 100K or 5 years later.