Waxin

J

Jman136

:
2021 Acura RDX
Waxin

Hey guys

Do you wax your ride during the winter months? I wash my white CX-5 weekly, but I havent waxed it since the fall. I put a decent coat on at that time. It isnt popping like it use to. I am not sure if I should just wait until speing or not?

What do you all use product wise, and how often do you do it during the winter?
 
Whatever you do, avoid the automated car washes if at all possible. Even the so called touchless washes are bad. I use the coin op spray wash stations for mid winter cleaning. In addition there are no rinse type of washes like Optimum that do an excellent job. Using that after the coin op does the job for me.
 
Puyapim said:
Whatever you do, avoid the automated car washes if at all possible. Even the so called touchless washes are bad. I use the coin op spray wash stations for mid winter cleaning. In addition there are no rinse type of washes like Optimum that do an excellent job. Using that after the coin op does the job for me.
Click to expand...

You have never had the Optimum scratch the paint?
 
Jman136 said:
You have never had the Optimum scratch the paint?
Click to expand...

It scratches if technique is not perfect, which is not perfect in real world. I have a dark blue. I use ONR. I did a quick spray and wipe after nasty rain spots. Did great but did add minor scratches. White won't show micro scratches. Don't worry.
Once a year wash, clay, and wax. Occasionally use scratchx if needed b4 waxing.
 
Fyi I don't use 2 buckets and grit guard. Drying towels and wash mitts.
 
I didn't wax for the first few years I owned the CX-5 (to my shame). Recently, I've adopted a once per season wax. Once a year clay.

I do have scratches that need worked on. I tried but didn't do much good.
 
ColoradoDriver said:
I do have scratches that need worked on. I tried but didn't do much good.
Click to expand...

Here is what I do:
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. ScratchX on the area. This will work for small scratches for deeper ones you need two or three attempts.
4. Once scratch is complete - add wax to whole panel.

Ride92 suggested a $38 pad that works with regular cordless drill. Might give it a go in future.
 
Jman136 said:
You have never had the Optimum scratch the paint?
Click to expand...


Follow the instructions and use good quality thick microfiber towels. The Rag Company is one source. For any type of washing and protection good microfiber is essential.

I also use the two bucket method with grit guards.
 
Puyapim said:
Follow the instructions and use good quality thick microfiber towels. The Rag Company is one source. For any type of washing and protection good microfiber is essential.

I also use the two bucket method with grit guards.
Click to expand...

This is the key. I have used ONR for years. I recently have gone to the next level and purchased a pressure washer, foam sprayer, and a metrovac blower to dry the car. I rinse, foam, ONR, then use the blower. The foam is a great lubricant during the hand wash with ONR. The trick is to minimize the amount of touch time on the paint and keeping anything that does touch the paint as clean as possible. I also use 3 buckets with grit guards, one specifically for wheels/wheel wells, and the other two for the traditional 2 bucket method. My wife and neighbors think I'm nuts, but at least she does appreciate always having a clean ride!
foam.jpg
 
wrxray said:
This is the key. I have used ONR for years. I recently have gone to the next level and purchased a pressure washer, foam sprayer, and a metrovac blower to dry the car. I rinse, foam, ONR, then use the blower. The foam is a great lubricant during the hand wash with ONR. The trick is to minimize the amount of touch time on the paint and keeping anything that does touch the paint as clean as possible. I also use 3 buckets with grit guards, one specifically for wheels/wheel wells, and the other two for the traditional 2 bucket method. My wife and neighbors think I'm nuts, but at least she does appreciate always having a clean ride!
Click to expand...

No garage, but even if i had one, stage 1 would be just pressure wash with water to remove as much surface contaminants. Stage 2 would be ONR with less dirt on my mitt, 1 bucket.
I love how ONR can be used for clay lube, QD and washing. Getting meg's separate QD etc. can be expensive, specially if you use that QD for claying as well.
 
Kaps said:
Here is what I do:
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. ScratchX on the area. This will work for small scratches for deeper ones you need two or three attempts.
4. Once scratch is complete - add wax to whole panel.

Ride92 suggested a $38 pad that works with regular cordless drill. Might give it a go in future.
Click to expand...

Cheers. Will give that a go. Thanks Kaps.
 
There is no short supply to products that can be applied to the car. Jman, I see that you are also in Wisconsin, where about are you? I do detailing work on the side when weather permits and would be happy to help you out if you want, and aren't too far away. I actually use ceramic coatings on my cars now since they last so much longer then typical waxes and sealants. I've got 3 years on my Optimum Gloss coat right now and probably need to re do it this spring.

As far as washing goes, I use ONR with a bucket and grit guard. I have 5 edgeless microfibers from the rag company that I use to do the ONR washes. I use one of those pump garden sprayers to "presoak" the car which helps loosen the grime and dirt and the start from the top down. Towel 1 = roof and windows, towel 2 = hood and front fenders, towels 3 and 4 = one for each side of the car, and towel 5 = rear hatch/lift gate. I fold the towels into the fourths and refold to a clean side quite often.

If you are looking for a decent product that can be found quite easily locally, ie Walmart, check out meguairs fast finish. It's a polymer coating that is super easy to apply once the paint is clean. Just spray a bit onto a clean microfiber and wipe onto the car, flip to a dry side of the towel and buff any remaining product off, there won't be much.

If a car isn't coated or I'm not coating it, then for a winter wax I use Collonite 476s wax, it's quite durable and should last thru the winter. In the summer months I use mostly Collonite 845 or Meguairs Ultimate liquid wax because of how easy and fast it is to apply and remove and neither of those stain or leave marks on the black trim.

One thing with modern waxes, is "thin is in" its better to apply 2 very thin coats then one thick coat. This is because most products sold as waxes are actually synthetic polymer sealants and not natural waxes. When I use Meguairs Ultimate liquid wax I actually apply to the entire car before removing most of the time because it allows the product to setup and do it's cross hatching bonding thing with the paint.

If you have other questions just let me know.
 
Ride92 my plastic molding at the bottom caught some scratchx and some polish and is looking whitish. What do you recommend?
thank you.
 
Tips on the Collinite 476. 1. Apply thinly. 2. Don't let it set too long. Apply and buff panel almost immediately. 3. Tape off any plastic trim or be real careful as you do not want to apply it to plastic trim. I made all 3 mistakes which made it much less satisfying to use.

I had used Collinite 845 which is a breeze to use and is not susceptible to any of these issues.
 
Kaps said:
Ride92 my plastic molding at the bottom caught some scratchx and some polish and is looking whitish. What do you recommend?
thank you.
Click to expand...

Theres a few tricks out there to remove wax residue from plastic trim. One is to use an eraser, one of those big pink ones. it works but then you have little pink crumbs all over the place. Peanut oil is also suppose to work quite well. My go to for removing white residue is Mothers back to black heavy duty trim cleaner. This is not the same as the back to black trim restorer. The heavy duty cleaner is clear and comes with a small nylon bristle brush that it used to apply and scrub the affected areas.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The pictures make it look like it darkens the trim but it does not it only cleans it. If yours is getting faded, follow the trim cleaner with a trim coating of your choice.
 
Ride92 said:
Theres a few tricks out there to remove wax residue from plastic trim. One is to use an eraser, one of those big pink ones. it works but then you have little pink crumbs all over the place. Peanut oil is also suppose to work quite well. My go to for removing white residue is Mothers back to black heavy duty trim cleaner. This is not the same as the back to black trim restorer. The heavy duty cleaner is clear and comes with a small nylon bristle brush that it used to apply and scrub the affected areas.
Click to expand...

Whatever you do don't use Goober's....save it for sandwiches.
 
Ride92 said:
There is no short supply to products that can be applied to the car. Jman, I see that you are also in Wisconsin, where about are you? I do detailing work on the side when weather permits and would be happy to help you out if you want, and aren't too far away. I actually use ceramic coatings on my cars now since they last so much longer then typical waxes and sealants. I've got 3 years on my Optimum Gloss coat right now and probably need to re do it this spring.

As far as washing goes, I use ONR with a bucket and grit guard. I have 5 edgeless microfibers from the rag company that I use to do the ONR washes. I use one of those pump garden sprayers to "presoak" the car which helps loosen the grime and dirt and the start from the top down. Towel 1 = roof and windows, towel 2 = hood and front fenders, towels 3 and 4 = one for each side of the car, and towel 5 = rear hatch/lift gate. I fold the towels into the fourths and refold to a clean side quite often.

If you are looking for a decent product that can be found quite easily locally, ie Walmart, check out meguairs fast finish. It's a polymer coating that is super easy to apply once the paint is clean. Just spray a bit onto a clean microfiber and wipe onto the car, flip to a dry side of the towel and buff any remaining product off, there won't be much.

If a car isn't coated or I'm not coating it, then for a winter wax I use Collonite 476s wax, it's quite durable and should last thru the winter. In the summer months I use mostly Collonite 845 or Meguairs Ultimate liquid wax because of how easy and fast it is to apply and remove and neither of those stain or leave marks on the black trim.

One thing with modern waxes, is "thin is in" its better to apply 2 very thin coats then one thick coat. This is because most products sold as waxes are actually synthetic polymer sealants and not natural waxes. When I use Meguairs Ultimate liquid wax I actually apply to the entire car before removing most of the time because it allows the product to setup and do it's cross hatching bonding thing with the paint.

If you have other questions just let me know.
Click to expand...

Hey, I live in Kenosha, WI... are you anywhere near?
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

paris1
Anyone figure out how to touch-up Mazda 46V Soul Red Crystal Metallic?
Replies
8
Views
3K
paris1
paris1
C
Woes of the Soul Red Crystal Color - Touch up paint?
Replies
9
Views
5K
Glee217
Glee217
D
    • Like
LED Light, HBC and ALH warning with 2020 CX-5 Signature
Replies
4
Views
3K
yrwei52
yrwei52

Latest posts

Back