- :
- 2003 Protege5
So I recently picked up my second protg...a P5 wagon this time instead of an ES. My ES still runs at 247k miles but I hit the point where I'd rather drop the money for something in better condition instead of into the frequent repairs. After I strip any parts off of it that I want I'll be selling it to my buddy.
This build will most likely bore most as my goals are not grand or typical. I want to get the best mpg possible while maintaining or improving existing performance, comfort, and dependability levels as it will be my daily driver. I realize that is pretty much asking for everything, but I figure I will be sacrificing in the weight reduction department. So no complete gutting of the interior to save weight, in fact I may even add a small sub, sound deadening, and aero mods that will ADD some weight. I will mostly focus on engine efficiency and aero mods with occasional suspension and interior mods thrown in. In the end it may look like I'm trying to turn it into a race car combined with a big rig, but I don't care. I'll have a car that'll be FUN to drive and CHEAP to operate. I enjoy saving money (Go Dave Ramsey!), I enjoy driving my Mazda, and I enjoy solving problems creatively so this should be fun.
Any recommendations on unnecessary items I can remove that won't effect comfort would be appreciated...brackets for baby seats are a good example of what I WOULD remove.
I have a few requirements...I want to stay with 87 octane fuel, I have 3 kids so I can't sacrifice space in the back for them, and I mountain bike, windsurf, and kayak so the roof racks will have to stay...hopefully the factory ones for aero benefits over the Yakima rack from my ES.
My goal is 40mpg...which is approximately $602 dollars saved in annual fuel costs. I don't want to spend more than I would save in annual mpg improvements and I have yet to determine exactly how that equation would look, but here goes... I work 25 miles from my house, so I drive 13000 miles a year just going to work and back. I'm going to estimate 20,000 miles a year total. At $2.50/gal for 87 octane, if I go from 27 to 35mpg I would save ~$423 dollars annually, another $179 at 40mpg, another $139 at 45mpg, and another $111 at 50mpg. Since the first few improvements in gas mileage will save me the most money and will probably cost less than moving from say 45 to 50 mpg, I am tentatively setting a goal of 40mpg. That would save me $602 dollars a year in fuel costs. I will not be counting regular maintenance costs like engine oil changes and air filters as I would have to budget for those anyway.
Economy Upgrades Completed:
-Stage 1 air intake (Goldstar) -free
-NGK V-Power ZFR5F-11 plugs (long reach) -maintenance
-Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 full synthetic oil -maintenance
-Seafoam intake, crankcase, and fuel - maintenance
-EGR valve cleaned - maintenance
-Torque app and ELM 327 BT OBD2 adapter -$11
-STI s204 PU front lip -$46
-Stolspeed VGs (vortex generators) - $68
-Honda stubby antennae -$12
-body panel gap filling - $14
-Duralast Flex blade wipers -maintenance
-Weight reductions: child seat brackets, oh s**t handles -free
Economy Upgrades to Consider: (most likely to least likely) (please mention any others that I should consider)
-unnecessary weight reductions (SUGGESTIONS would really be helpful here)
-lowering car
-Stagg SHS shock/struts -maintenance ($165)
-Tein S Tech springs, 1.8"f/1.5"r -$183
-IM replacement with port/polish, VTCS removal, and deep cleaning
-IM out of 2001 ES (free)
-Hydra Motorsports thermal intake gaskets ($30)
-new silicone vacuum hoses ($)
-Motorcraft MTX-75 synthetic manual transmission fluid
-ground wire upgrades - 1sty Ground Wire kit from mazda247
-additional intake mods (Soarer BFI and Simota Aero inspired) (egg holders $13)
-Improve seal in area between hood and windshield
-partial grille block
-HDPE underbody panels, 1/8 inch (front, middle, and rear diffuser)
-considered coroplast but I think HDPE will be more rigid and require less aluminum reinforcement
-wheel arch gap filling (front and top)
-wheel well venting towards rear / boat-tailing behind tires
-plexi or lexan over fogs
-OBX or 4-2-1 Probe headers (economy and saves 18 lbs)
-Split Second AFC
-one for sale in Indy for $200 used
-626 final gear
-motorcycle/F1 style rear view mirrors
-rear corner airflow trip feature
-cruise control mods - [/url]http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/cruise-control-mpg-sensitive-logic-2031.html[/url]
-synthetic axle / wheel bearing lube
-Hydra lightweight crank pulley (same as stock, but 4lbs lighter)
-shaved door handles
-lexan rear windows
-plexi removable boat tail
-softened / radiused aft edge of front wheel arches and gap minimizing
-lighter weight rims / wheels (probably cost restrictive)
-lightweight flywheel (probably cost and skill level restrictive)
Economy Upgrades Ruled Out:
X MP3 ECU (want to keep 87 octane fuel)
X NON-Ethanol fuel (cost prohibitive and scarce, GREAT OPTION otherwise)
X catback exhaust (I like quiet)
X roof rack delete (need for hauling fun outdoor toys)
X flat wheel covers (too ugly)
X spare tire and tool removal (I live in extreme pothole country and have needed these many times)
X regenerative braking (probably cost restrictive)
Other Upgrades Completed:
-Purolator One PL14610 (Mazda 626) oil filter
-Purolator A25049 air filter
-Mazda 6 front brakes (2005)
-Magnum Brakes SS braided brake lines
-NAPA Premium front rotors
-Duralast Gold ceramic brake pads
-Goodridge SS braided clutch line
-Lucas Oil Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid
-Philips LL EcoVision H7 bulbs
-LED T10 backup light
-Kuat Dirtbag 20mm bike fork holder
-Dupli-Color BGM0522 Storm Grey Metallic accents
-Hydra Motorsports cluster rings
-Tungsten weighted OEM shift knob (317g)
-Frost King sound deadening in doors
-Pyle PLG6C rear component speakers
-Subaru Forester overhead console
-Mazda2 AC Knobs
-AC flickering fix
TORQUE APP AND ELM327 BT OBD2 adapter - $11
If I was going to improve my mpg I need to learn to drive more efficiently and track any progress. These 2 items cost me $11 total and work well. Sometimes it takes a while to connect, and sometimes the vacuum gauge doesn't give a readout, but for the cost I'm happy. EDIT: If you are in the market purchase the ELM327 from Ebay that is thinner with a curved top, the larger boxier version has a lot of trouble connecting.
STAGE 1 AIR INTAKE
I decided that Goldstar's intake mods to the OEM air intake would be my "stage 1" air intake. I had a custom CAI on my ES and wasn't impressed with the mpg. It did improve high RPM power and sounded great, but the mpg loss wasn't worth it. I opened up the top portion of the grille, duct taped over all 6 holes, sealed connections, and removed the grate before the MAF. I did notice a slight increase in mid range power, a more throaty sound, and an increase in mpg, but at this point some of that could be learning to drive more efficiently by using the Torque app and adjusting my driving style a little. At this point I've gone from averaging ~27.5mpg to averaging ~29mpg. *****EDIT: I later modified the MAF waffle grate thingy and reinstalled it and noticed a pretty sizeable MPG gain. Better description in post #8
SOUND DEADENING AND DOOR REPAIRS
Compared to my ES this thing is LOUD inside. I realize that this is mostly due to the Firestone Firehawk AS tires, but I had to do something about it. Neither of the front door lock actuators were working when I got the car and the rear passenger's side speaker wasn't working so I thought I could address all of these things at the same time. I decided on Frost King duct insulation, Pyle PLG6C component speakers, and took the actuators out of my ES. I downloaded Sound Meter on my LG G3 and my interior noise at 60mph on a calm day went from 70 dBA to ***** after covering all 4 doors. I plan on doing the trunk as well, but will probably wait until I purchase an MX6 rear strut bar and do those 2 things at the same time.
LONG REACH SPARK PLUGS and PUROLATOR AIR FILTER
I probably should have done these separately but I can't make a $17 purchase and not install it. Wires looked good so the swap was easy. I've definitely noticed a difference in mid range engine torque. I'm up to over 30mpg but I've only filled up once since.
This build will most likely bore most as my goals are not grand or typical. I want to get the best mpg possible while maintaining or improving existing performance, comfort, and dependability levels as it will be my daily driver. I realize that is pretty much asking for everything, but I figure I will be sacrificing in the weight reduction department. So no complete gutting of the interior to save weight, in fact I may even add a small sub, sound deadening, and aero mods that will ADD some weight. I will mostly focus on engine efficiency and aero mods with occasional suspension and interior mods thrown in. In the end it may look like I'm trying to turn it into a race car combined with a big rig, but I don't care. I'll have a car that'll be FUN to drive and CHEAP to operate. I enjoy saving money (Go Dave Ramsey!), I enjoy driving my Mazda, and I enjoy solving problems creatively so this should be fun.
Any recommendations on unnecessary items I can remove that won't effect comfort would be appreciated...brackets for baby seats are a good example of what I WOULD remove.
I have a few requirements...I want to stay with 87 octane fuel, I have 3 kids so I can't sacrifice space in the back for them, and I mountain bike, windsurf, and kayak so the roof racks will have to stay...hopefully the factory ones for aero benefits over the Yakima rack from my ES.
My goal is 40mpg...which is approximately $602 dollars saved in annual fuel costs. I don't want to spend more than I would save in annual mpg improvements and I have yet to determine exactly how that equation would look, but here goes... I work 25 miles from my house, so I drive 13000 miles a year just going to work and back. I'm going to estimate 20,000 miles a year total. At $2.50/gal for 87 octane, if I go from 27 to 35mpg I would save ~$423 dollars annually, another $179 at 40mpg, another $139 at 45mpg, and another $111 at 50mpg. Since the first few improvements in gas mileage will save me the most money and will probably cost less than moving from say 45 to 50 mpg, I am tentatively setting a goal of 40mpg. That would save me $602 dollars a year in fuel costs. I will not be counting regular maintenance costs like engine oil changes and air filters as I would have to budget for those anyway.
Economy Upgrades Completed:
-Stage 1 air intake (Goldstar) -free
-NGK V-Power ZFR5F-11 plugs (long reach) -maintenance
-Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 full synthetic oil -maintenance
-Seafoam intake, crankcase, and fuel - maintenance
-EGR valve cleaned - maintenance
-Torque app and ELM 327 BT OBD2 adapter -$11
-STI s204 PU front lip -$46
-Stolspeed VGs (vortex generators) - $68
-Honda stubby antennae -$12
-body panel gap filling - $14
-Duralast Flex blade wipers -maintenance
-Weight reductions: child seat brackets, oh s**t handles -free
Economy Upgrades to Consider: (most likely to least likely) (please mention any others that I should consider)
-unnecessary weight reductions (SUGGESTIONS would really be helpful here)
-lowering car
-Stagg SHS shock/struts -maintenance ($165)
-Tein S Tech springs, 1.8"f/1.5"r -$183
-IM replacement with port/polish, VTCS removal, and deep cleaning
-IM out of 2001 ES (free)
-Hydra Motorsports thermal intake gaskets ($30)
-new silicone vacuum hoses ($)
-Motorcraft MTX-75 synthetic manual transmission fluid
-ground wire upgrades - 1sty Ground Wire kit from mazda247
-additional intake mods (Soarer BFI and Simota Aero inspired) (egg holders $13)
-Improve seal in area between hood and windshield
-partial grille block
-HDPE underbody panels, 1/8 inch (front, middle, and rear diffuser)
-considered coroplast but I think HDPE will be more rigid and require less aluminum reinforcement
-wheel arch gap filling (front and top)
-wheel well venting towards rear / boat-tailing behind tires
-plexi or lexan over fogs
-OBX or 4-2-1 Probe headers (economy and saves 18 lbs)
-Split Second AFC
-one for sale in Indy for $200 used
-626 final gear
-motorcycle/F1 style rear view mirrors
-rear corner airflow trip feature
-cruise control mods - [/url]http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/cruise-control-mpg-sensitive-logic-2031.html[/url]
-synthetic axle / wheel bearing lube
-Hydra lightweight crank pulley (same as stock, but 4lbs lighter)
-shaved door handles
-lexan rear windows
-plexi removable boat tail
-softened / radiused aft edge of front wheel arches and gap minimizing
-lighter weight rims / wheels (probably cost restrictive)
-lightweight flywheel (probably cost and skill level restrictive)
Economy Upgrades Ruled Out:
X MP3 ECU (want to keep 87 octane fuel)
X NON-Ethanol fuel (cost prohibitive and scarce, GREAT OPTION otherwise)
X catback exhaust (I like quiet)
X roof rack delete (need for hauling fun outdoor toys)
X flat wheel covers (too ugly)
X spare tire and tool removal (I live in extreme pothole country and have needed these many times)
X regenerative braking (probably cost restrictive)
Other Upgrades Completed:
-Purolator One PL14610 (Mazda 626) oil filter
-Purolator A25049 air filter
-Mazda 6 front brakes (2005)
-Magnum Brakes SS braided brake lines
-NAPA Premium front rotors
-Duralast Gold ceramic brake pads
-Goodridge SS braided clutch line
-Lucas Oil Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid
-Philips LL EcoVision H7 bulbs
-LED T10 backup light
-Kuat Dirtbag 20mm bike fork holder
-Dupli-Color BGM0522 Storm Grey Metallic accents
-Hydra Motorsports cluster rings
-Tungsten weighted OEM shift knob (317g)
-Frost King sound deadening in doors
-Pyle PLG6C rear component speakers
-Subaru Forester overhead console
-Mazda2 AC Knobs
-AC flickering fix
TORQUE APP AND ELM327 BT OBD2 adapter - $11
If I was going to improve my mpg I need to learn to drive more efficiently and track any progress. These 2 items cost me $11 total and work well. Sometimes it takes a while to connect, and sometimes the vacuum gauge doesn't give a readout, but for the cost I'm happy. EDIT: If you are in the market purchase the ELM327 from Ebay that is thinner with a curved top, the larger boxier version has a lot of trouble connecting.
STAGE 1 AIR INTAKE
I decided that Goldstar's intake mods to the OEM air intake would be my "stage 1" air intake. I had a custom CAI on my ES and wasn't impressed with the mpg. It did improve high RPM power and sounded great, but the mpg loss wasn't worth it. I opened up the top portion of the grille, duct taped over all 6 holes, sealed connections, and removed the grate before the MAF. I did notice a slight increase in mid range power, a more throaty sound, and an increase in mpg, but at this point some of that could be learning to drive more efficiently by using the Torque app and adjusting my driving style a little. At this point I've gone from averaging ~27.5mpg to averaging ~29mpg. *****EDIT: I later modified the MAF waffle grate thingy and reinstalled it and noticed a pretty sizeable MPG gain. Better description in post #8
SOUND DEADENING AND DOOR REPAIRS
Compared to my ES this thing is LOUD inside. I realize that this is mostly due to the Firestone Firehawk AS tires, but I had to do something about it. Neither of the front door lock actuators were working when I got the car and the rear passenger's side speaker wasn't working so I thought I could address all of these things at the same time. I decided on Frost King duct insulation, Pyle PLG6C component speakers, and took the actuators out of my ES. I downloaded Sound Meter on my LG G3 and my interior noise at 60mph on a calm day went from 70 dBA to ***** after covering all 4 doors. I plan on doing the trunk as well, but will probably wait until I purchase an MX6 rear strut bar and do those 2 things at the same time.
LONG REACH SPARK PLUGS and PUROLATOR AIR FILTER
I probably should have done these separately but I can't make a $17 purchase and not install it. Wires looked good so the swap was easy. I've definitely noticed a difference in mid range engine torque. I'm up to over 30mpg but I've only filled up once since.
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