A better lubricant (maybe?) helping me go the distance!

My dealer "hand washed" the car the first time right when I bought it. The service shop was closed so the auto car wash was shut down for the day. I thought great, no auto wash = less chance of swirls. I went back to see what was taking so long and there the salesman was washing my brand new car with a dirty bucket, dirty water, and one of those red shop rags!!!!! Never again will I let that dealership touch my paint.

Just got mine detailed today. Full vacuum and interior cleaning, and they did a killer job washing it (internal bay, sprayers, hand-wash, etc.). They will do it every week or so if I ask. Part of the perks living where I do. The dealerships go above and beyond.
 
Just an update. Statistically, my mileage has not changed a bit. I will continue to spend $20 on oil vs. $40 on oil, and use the Mobil 1 product, so long as I don't see it getting burned off when I check the oil level at 5K.

I've used the Moly, Mobile 1, and now Pennzoil Platinum. Fuel mileage has all been pretty much the same with the 87 octane. The Moly gave me the worst oil mileage (1/2 quart/4k miles) using it in 2 oil changes consecutively, the Pennzoil is giving the best mileage so far with no loss in 3800 miles and is the cheapest @ $22 per 5 quart jug at Walmart. I'm nearing 54k miles on the vehicle now.
 
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Also, spent some time on BITOG, and there can be some but I suspect not material difference in mileage in the various 0W20 oils. 1%? So this will be a good experiment to see what you find. Thanks for keeping the community informed so we can all learn.

OP is only going 5k miles. Any DEXOS 1 approved 0w20 oil will easily do 6k miles let alone protect the engine for 200-300k miles.

Change intervals of 10k+ or autocrossing then that's when you get in to the Amsoil Signature or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum discussions.

If anyone falls in the first category simply go for any 0w20 Dexos 1 approved oil with the name/color of container/specs/or fanboyism choice of your liking.
 
I've used the Moly, Mobile 1, and now Pennzoil Platinum. Fuel mileage has all been pretty much the same with the 87 octane. The Moly gave me the worst oil mileage (1/2 quart/4k miles) using it in 2 oil changes consecutively, the Pennzoil is giving the best mileage so far with no loss in 3800 miles and is the cheapest @ $22 per 5 quart jug at Walmart. I'm nearing 54k miles on the vehicle now.

I have only used Mazda Moly. On 5K oil change intervals, I have not detected any significant oil loss. I am usually sensitive to about 1/3 quart or more being missing, but I couldn't detect even that much loss. I have 46K miles, currently. The Mobil 1 that I am using cost me $20+Tax at Wal-Mart. The Mazda OEM oil filter strikes me as a very quality unit, and I have not seen fit to try to stray from it, although I gather that it is somewhat proprietary and a non-OEM substitute might be dicey. No matter, OEM is G2G in this case.
 
OP is only going 5k miles. Any DEXOS 1 approved 0w20 oil will easily do 6k miles let alone protect the engine for 200-300k miles.

Change intervals of 10k+ or autocrossing then that's when you get in to the Amsoil Signature or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum discussions.

If anyone falls in the first category simply go for any 0w20 Dexos 1 approved oil with the name/color of container/specs/or fanboyism choice of your liking.

I have seen some Mobil 1 OIS's where shearing causes it to "drop a rated weight" (30W=20W) in as little as 3K miles. Other than that, yeah, I know I change my oil "too early", but my concern is silica contaminants, etc. and not necessarily TBN depletion. Not that I have any special reason to fear silica contamination, but I had to pick SOME reason to change the oil, lol.

Also, I had to play with oils when I had an LS1 car. It drank Mobil 1 5-30 EP to the tune of 1 quart every 2K miles almost. 0-30 German Castrol dropped it to 3/4 quart every 5K miles. So it's not ALL fanboyism.
 
I have seen some Mobil 1 OIS's where shearing causes it to "drop a rated weight" (30W=20W) in as little as 3K miles. Other than that, yeah, I know I change my oil "too early", but my concern is silica contaminants, etc. and not necessarily TBN depletion. Not that I have any special reason to fear silica contamination, but I had to pick SOME reason to change the oil, lol.

Also, I had to play with oils when I had an LS1 car. It drank Mobil 1 5-30 EP to the tune of 1 quart every 2K miles almost. 0-30 German Castrol dropped it to 3/4 quart every 5K miles. So it's not ALL fanboyism.

There's two types of M1 fanboys. Ones who stick to it by name no matter what, and ones that look into numbers/chemistry/analysis. I noticed a lot of the second group switch over to Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 because they claimed M1 now uses inferior base stock whereas PP is derived from natural gas and is of higher quality base stock. Decent cleaning detergents and NOACK numbers too. I heard about the M1 burning issues from BMW, Tacoma, and Evo owners. Never experienced those issues myself.

On the CX-5 I stopped using dealership bulk Castrol and switched to PP to experiment. When I drained the 6k mile old Castrol I noticed a small bit of sludge on the oil container when I wiped it off. Wonder if this is normal? Otherwise got decent performance out of Castrol. I'll take a mental note when I drain the PP at 6k if there's any sludge. Never had to top off on a skyactiv enging yet using Mazda Moly or Castrol Edge. I'll see how PP performs.
 
I didn't buy my CX-5 for the gas mileage. The car just fits me and is comfortable. As far as lubrication you won't find a significant difference in oil unless you go to a much heavier weight. I do use synthetic because a lot of dino oils have paraffin which in my opinion adds to the sludge accumulation. Living in Florida I get 27-28 mpg around town with the AC on. On the highway it's about the same and maybe up to 30 MPG sometimes.

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I didn't buy my CX-5 for the gas mileage. The car just fits me and is comfortable. As far as lubrication you won't find a significant difference in oil unless you go to a much heavier weight. I do use synthetic because a lot of dino oils have paraffin which in my opinion adds to the sludge accumulation. Living in Florida I get 27-28 mpg around town with the AC on. On the highway it's about the same and maybe up to 30 MPG sometimes.

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I bought mine because it does what I need, and was supposed to be VERY reliable. So far I have been very pleased with those aspects of it. The mileage has been a bit of a let down, although certainly I would have bought it anyway, even knowing.
 
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