Losing my mind with this car!

Thanks for the info pcb & mrgiggles,
I haven't checked the alternator yet... but my lights are dimming worse and worse if i hit the window button ect...

I ordered one of the obd2 blue tooth scanners, that use the torque app, for recording live data while driving.
It should be here soon, I'm not working on the protege5 until I have it. I'm tired of speculating.

also update:
the (2) mazda oem plug wire leads came. ($50 bucks for both)
compared to the other 5 sets of aftermarket wires I have... they are much higher quality.
-the rubber boot part is 1/8" longer than all the others,
-the inside metal connectors are very beefy,
-the leads fit so tightly inside the head and to the coil pack.

if the mazda oem coil packs are of the same quality @ 100$ each >.<... they are probably a must have...

-Jon
 
For the record, I finally got around to working on the timing belt.
It took me 2 sessions to get the dam crank pulley bolt off. What a nightmare....
I've been working on this misfire issue since I bought the car 2 years ago.
When both cam shafts where in the proper alignment, the timing was off 2 teeth at the crank.
I can see why, it's not exactly easy to get on right... I guess the last guy said close enough.... LOL
If you have the 3k rpm random intermittent misfire. just sell the car, because your going to check, replace, and drive your self crazy over 20 parts that may not be the issue.
 
I'm back, revitalizing my old post again. Took some time off to ponder and get less aggravated.

So here is where we are:
Parts replaced...
5th set of coils have OEM Hitachi ones now
4th set of plug wires stock NGK
3rd set of plugs NGK copper
New cam sensor
New crank sensor
New TPS sensor
New MAF
New EGR
New vacuum lines
New fuel pump/filter
New battery
New alternator
New coil pack wire plugs (ones on there were lose)
Basically every sensor that could be changed has been.
Replaced the ECU with another working one.
No vacuum leaks or intake leaks.

After replacing damn near everything in the engine, shy of the engine itself, the problem has lightened up a bit. It's a little more random now. I can drive around fine for a while then all the sudden happens again. I have a new ground cable for the battery that is going to get changed because the one in there now is kind of shifty. I'm also going to empty the gas and put in some new stuff with some seafoam and see if that helps.
 
Well, it's officially dead.

Swapped the battery ground and poured a can of seafoam in the gas. Drove it around, was doing okay for a while, then once on the freeway, the battery light came on and my volt meter read 17.5. Pulled into the driveway, car was idling around 1300 rims and pulsing. Shut it off, and won't start now. Pulled the fuse cover and the 100amp main fuse was melted to the case and didn't pop, the battery was leaking fluid from being overcharged. So basically I fried who knows what sensors, so I'm finished dumping money into this thing. Sadly, never solved the issue. Going to strip the car and sell the aftermarket stuff off it, so I'll post up a sale thread once I get it tore appart.
 
Just so you know... My car did the same thing when my alternator went bad.
The voltage shot up to 17.5 Volts and I too drove it home and parked it. The next morning I had to get it jump started (some kind of internal short in the alt.) and drove it to the shop for an alternator replacement.... I turned on every electrical load to help keep the voltage down on the trip to the shop.

My car made a complete recovery with no blown sensors or bulbs or fuses.
Your car may indeed still be OK... However I certainly understand if you've simply had enough of dealing with the damn thing.
If it were me, I'd take a sledgehammer to it.... You'd probably feel better.
 
This may very well be the case, but I'm done throwing money at it. It's getting annoying now dumping that much cash into maintenance issues. If it was a crazy performance car or something, then maybe, but not a run of the mill 2002 model car.
 
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