Yup brackets replaced, clips all new, everything's all new on the caliper.
I've already checked and the right sided has way more resistance than the left.. It has to by hydraulic issue since everything's been done including new brake flex hose
Front right brake issue!!
- Thread starter stivine6
- Start date
Yup brackets replaced, clips all new, everything's all new on the caliper.
I've already checked and the right sided has way more resistance than the left.. It has to by hydraulic issue since everything's been done including new brake flex hose
Okay I just found out it's another faulty caliper. What are the chances of 2 faulty calipers? Dam I'm so relieved right now but that totally gave me the run around. I jacked up the car again to make sure and everything rolls smooth no dragging
Thank you guys for all the help and prompt response time!
Thank you guys for all the help and prompt response time!
Mechanic said it was the piston. As far as I know that had to have been the problem because he bled the brakes twice and nothing worked until he switched the caliper for another new one
I'm just glad it's done.. Such a simple task turned into a mission
I'm gonna suggest that perhaps the caliper IS releasing the pressure but it's the piston binding in it's bore because unless you buy a brand new caliper from Mazda, you're getting a rebuild where they don't necessarily resurface the bore or even replace the piston,... just replace the seals and ship it back out.
While over-thinking this even more,.. I came up with this picture of my last caliper.
That rust on the piston would also be on the bore.
If all they do is "polish" the rust off then you'd have sort of a tapered bore that would get tighter as you push the piston in further...
I remembered something else about this job,...
Be careful when rotating the caliper back on to the rotor. On my new caliper, when the piston was pushed all the way in to give room for the new, thick pads, the rubber seal on the piston stuck out further than the piston and got pinched and cut when it hit the edge of the rotor.
Make sure you check that your seal is clear of the rotor while rotating it onto the rotor.
That rust on the piston would also be on the bore.
If all they do is "polish" the rust off then you'd have sort of a tapered bore that would get tighter as you push the piston in further...
I remembered something else about this job,...
Be careful when rotating the caliper back on to the rotor. On my new caliper, when the piston was pushed all the way in to give room for the new, thick pads, the rubber seal on the piston stuck out further than the piston and got pinched and cut when it hit the edge of the rotor.
Make sure you check that your seal is clear of the rotor while rotating it onto the rotor.
TO ANYONE REPLACING THEIR REAR CALIPERS,...
It is very advisable to bring your wrench and allen key with you to the parts store and make sure the adjuster screw works.
One guy had to have three brought to the front before he got one that worked.
I'm almost positive that when they rebuild our rear calipers they don't replace the gizmo's inside or even make sure they work.
Our rear caliper is completely rare and original to our car and the guys probably don't even recognize the stuff inside.
Well it could've been anyone of those things but it was to the point where it was just worth it to buy a brand new one just to see if it was another faulty caliper. I had two mechanics basically go over the whole brake system and couldn't find anything wrong. At that point they suggested to replace the caliper again and see what happens and that did the trick. My guess would also be that the piston bore didn't sit right with the piston housing
Here's a video of how it should be - All fixed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cuklgifqb8c
Here's a video of how it should be - All fixed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cuklgifqb8c
