Corksport Camber Arms Request Link
- Thread starter Chris_Top_Her
- Start date
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I figured that was a given but I guess I should have said it. The intent being to figure out the difference to see if it could be easily modified.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I went to my local dealer (one of like 5), but no one in town has a 6 rear upper arm on hand, only a cx-5. However I came to the same conclusion as you on the bushing (based on the schematics). The schematic at the dealership showed the same result as well. I still want to confirm for myself though. I am still working on the adjustable links for lowered vehicles as well. I still need a picture of the endlink/sway bar angle of a OEM cx-5.
I have looking into that control arm myself, until I spoke with Kevin from Kmac and I think that the lateral link it would be easier to modify and the part itself it's almost half the price also. The adjustable link and the existing toe adjustment, would pull in the wheel.
The lateral link, is around $44 shipped and the control arm is more then $80 shipped.
The Kmac solution is not going to happen, because Mazda made the decision to mold the rubber bushing into the "tube", instead of using a bushing. If we had bushing, then Kmac would have given me the bushing, that would have been pressed into the original bushing's place.Another problem is, that the tube's interior diameter(where the rubber is) is not really round. I have measured around .012 difference at 90 degree.
The adjustable lateral link, it's to much for me($450 shipped).
I'm thinking of ordering a lateral link, which I will have to cut out a portion in the middle and I need to see the thickness of the tube's wall thickness. Dependent on that measurement, I will have to see what I have to do next. Definitely I will have to machine out of a hex material a left and right thread for adjustability, make these threads in the tubes. If the tube's wall thickness is not thick enough, then I will have to cut some tube material and pull over the existing tubes and weld them there at a good welding shop.
Another option it would be, if we could put an adjustable bushing in that control arm. I'm not familiar with these bushings. I believe that the bracket holding these control arm, should have some kind of part welded in to hold the eccentric washers.
The lateral link, is around $44 shipped and the control arm is more then $80 shipped.
The Kmac solution is not going to happen, because Mazda made the decision to mold the rubber bushing into the "tube", instead of using a bushing. If we had bushing, then Kmac would have given me the bushing, that would have been pressed into the original bushing's place.Another problem is, that the tube's interior diameter(where the rubber is) is not really round. I have measured around .012 difference at 90 degree.
The adjustable lateral link, it's to much for me($450 shipped).
I'm thinking of ordering a lateral link, which I will have to cut out a portion in the middle and I need to see the thickness of the tube's wall thickness. Dependent on that measurement, I will have to see what I have to do next. Definitely I will have to machine out of a hex material a left and right thread for adjustability, make these threads in the tubes. If the tube's wall thickness is not thick enough, then I will have to cut some tube material and pull over the existing tubes and weld them there at a good welding shop.
Another option it would be, if we could put an adjustable bushing in that control arm. I'm not familiar with these bushings. I believe that the bracket holding these control arm, should have some kind of part welded in to hold the eccentric washers.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Yea but, that car is on a lift so the suspension is not loaded. I am interested in a loaded example. I may just got to the dealer and look next time I have time.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Thanks, so it appears it's pretty much vertical (correct me if wrong, that is on the ground right?). I think I will need a shorter link then. I can just undo lower link nuts and swing it by hand and use a ruler to find a good length. Thanks.Here ya go, I snapped a pic of mine (stock)-
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Thanks, I guess they have it on a ramp lift, had to be sure because if it was a 4 point lift that could give me a wrong idea.
You're correct, it's on level ground.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Yea I dug through my email and found some old conversations with AUTOexe. They offer adjustable rear/front stabilizer (pretty much required for coilover/extra low..) and adjustable tie rod (good idea for extra low). Except these vost $200 a pop + shipping. I remember Maz saying his (shorter) autoexe links were a tight fit, he also mentioned his coilovers even at lowest sit higher than the H&R. Well, now I will looks to see what I can find for cheap.
Both front and rear are M10 bolts (japanese standard 14mm nut)
11.3"-11.9"
5.3-5.9" oem ~6" bolt-bolt straight
Both front and rear are M10 bolts (japanese standard 14mm nut)
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I will call hellwig tomorrow. They offer universal adjustable links, but the lowest listed was 6-8 inches. I'm looking for more like 5-6. Trying to get the height on these racing beep rx-8/miata ones too http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-MX5-2006-Present/Sway-Bars/54203.html edit.. I may actually need longer links.. so I may give the 6-8 a try..
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Well, it won't be an issue really with the OEM sway bar as far as the endlinks are concerned, they will just have more preload on them. But if you want an aftermarket bar with a lowered drops.. it's time to start looking into endlinks. I'm tempted to just buy the JBR arm see what can be done and just sell it on the 6 forum if it's not worth it lol.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Of course. I try to share whatever I learn.
I'm thinking, what if I would make an offset bushing(center hole would be off from the center), which would be fixed by tightening the bushing?
We need only 1 degree or even less, to be in spec.
I'm thinking about something like this:
http://www.lazarsmith.com/sitebuilder/images/DSC001355-558x216.jpg
It won't be adjustable though.
We need only 1 degree or even less, to be in spec.
I'm thinking about something like this:
http://www.lazarsmith.com/sitebuilder/images/DSC001355-558x216.jpg
It won't be adjustable though.
That could improve camber, I'm sure. By how much? Only trial and error will find out, since you only have one set adjustment. From my experience with factory adjustable eccentric bolts, bushings etc. the adjustment slots in the frames are about and inch to inch 1/4 long. I'd max out the hole are far as you safely can.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
wow I just found this page Whiteline Universal Endlinks... I've heard of whiteline before too. The stock links seem to be ~ 45deg opposed. The adjustables are "fully adjustable" so I should be able to set it myself. These are the one's I'm eyeing KLC140-135 135mm-160mm (just because they are the same range as the auto exe). I'll have time on freitag to find the ideal link length and hopefully can order within the next week. They also have various camber bolt on there.
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