- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
+'12 Curt Class 1 hitch install on <10
NOTE: I am only sharing my experience. I do NOT advise the +'12 Curt on <'10 model since Curt does not advise it on their fitment guide. (naughty)
Took my first crack at trying to mount the hitch yesterday (fingers crossed it fits). Curts install guide for the 12 says it is moderate difficulty and estimates ~45min for a professional. Let me start by saying that unless the car is brand spanking new (or relatively new with no rust), you are working with a lift, and you have all of the tools necessary, and you take more effort than what the guide says, it WILL take way longer than 45mins even! I was initially going by the 45 min estimate and allotted myself 2hr get it done. Boy am I wrong I cant imagine a pro doing it in 45 min unless they know EXCTLYT what to do and have done this multiple times.
The good news: It fits! (alright) At least from my test fit but still not mounted so ya never know. Clears everything and aligns where it needs and should. The ONLY different in the rear end between the older and newer model is that the +12 has a small heat shield that only covers the top of the exhaust while the <10 heat shield goes all the way up and past the rear axle. Even the mounting bolts for the heat shield are the same! In essence, you can follow the 12 install guide to the T but know that there are some gotchas. The install guide is not clear and misleading. Here are some things to be aware of:
-With the exhaust loose and hanging, it still gets in the way of accessing the exhaust heat shield bolts. It was a royal pain get at and required various length extenders and angle adapters. You also need a helping hand to push the exhaust canister out of the way (or use your foot to hold it and hands to drive it out, LOL) and it is a very tight space. I realize what Curt did but NOT advertise is that they REMOVED the exhaust completely. You can tell b/c that is the only way they can take a clean/complete pic of the heat shield in the install guide I have no issue with removing it IF the car was new or if I intend on replacing it, which I am not.
-If leaving the exhaust on, it is another royal pain to try and cut off the shield. There is NO space to work with to make a clean cut, again unless you remove your exhaust. While Curt advises marking and cutting out a template, they themselves removed the whole shield. I took a creative approach and try to retain what I can. The Curt hitch comes with sort of a heat shield (really part of the structure to go around the exhaust but can act as an shield b/c there is a gap between it and the underbody).
-If the car is older, some of the heat shield nuts/bolts will be rusted on and break upon removing. Oddly, the bolts came out but the nuts with washer snapped off easily. I soaked them with Kroil. Not that this matters since you are cutting this part off anyway and throwing them away.
-You need to widen the access hole that is right on top of the exhaust (as well as passenger side but that is free and open). The install guide simply says to widen the hole for the carriage bolts and washer. Sounds easy but with the exhaust canister it the way, I cannot get at it with a drill or roto zip. You can either remove the whole exhaust (which would make everything easier and as advertised and should be a required step) or you WILL need a dremel or some small cutting tool to enlarge the hole. Unfortunately I am in the middle of replacing the batteries on my cordless dremel so I didnt have the right tools. Way past 2hrs now so I need to clean up. To be continued but I am stoked (2thumbs)
NOTE: I am only sharing my experience. I do NOT advise the +'12 Curt on <'10 model since Curt does not advise it on their fitment guide. (naughty)
Took my first crack at trying to mount the hitch yesterday (fingers crossed it fits). Curts install guide for the 12 says it is moderate difficulty and estimates ~45min for a professional. Let me start by saying that unless the car is brand spanking new (or relatively new with no rust), you are working with a lift, and you have all of the tools necessary, and you take more effort than what the guide says, it WILL take way longer than 45mins even! I was initially going by the 45 min estimate and allotted myself 2hr get it done. Boy am I wrong I cant imagine a pro doing it in 45 min unless they know EXCTLYT what to do and have done this multiple times.
The good news: It fits! (alright) At least from my test fit but still not mounted so ya never know. Clears everything and aligns where it needs and should. The ONLY different in the rear end between the older and newer model is that the +12 has a small heat shield that only covers the top of the exhaust while the <10 heat shield goes all the way up and past the rear axle. Even the mounting bolts for the heat shield are the same! In essence, you can follow the 12 install guide to the T but know that there are some gotchas. The install guide is not clear and misleading. Here are some things to be aware of:
-With the exhaust loose and hanging, it still gets in the way of accessing the exhaust heat shield bolts. It was a royal pain get at and required various length extenders and angle adapters. You also need a helping hand to push the exhaust canister out of the way (or use your foot to hold it and hands to drive it out, LOL) and it is a very tight space. I realize what Curt did but NOT advertise is that they REMOVED the exhaust completely. You can tell b/c that is the only way they can take a clean/complete pic of the heat shield in the install guide I have no issue with removing it IF the car was new or if I intend on replacing it, which I am not.
-If leaving the exhaust on, it is another royal pain to try and cut off the shield. There is NO space to work with to make a clean cut, again unless you remove your exhaust. While Curt advises marking and cutting out a template, they themselves removed the whole shield. I took a creative approach and try to retain what I can. The Curt hitch comes with sort of a heat shield (really part of the structure to go around the exhaust but can act as an shield b/c there is a gap between it and the underbody).
-If the car is older, some of the heat shield nuts/bolts will be rusted on and break upon removing. Oddly, the bolts came out but the nuts with washer snapped off easily. I soaked them with Kroil. Not that this matters since you are cutting this part off anyway and throwing them away.
-You need to widen the access hole that is right on top of the exhaust (as well as passenger side but that is free and open). The install guide simply says to widen the hole for the carriage bolts and washer. Sounds easy but with the exhaust canister it the way, I cannot get at it with a drill or roto zip. You can either remove the whole exhaust (which would make everything easier and as advertised and should be a required step) or you WILL need a dremel or some small cutting tool to enlarge the hole. Unfortunately I am in the middle of replacing the batteries on my cordless dremel so I didnt have the right tools. Way past 2hrs now so I need to clean up. To be continued but I am stoked (2thumbs)