Idles like crap and dies

J

Jickywoo

Member
:
2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
Finally got my MSP runnin after a month and a half... Problem now is that it idles like crap and usually dies at idle. It also immediately dies if you put any load on the engine, such as trying to drive it at all. If I unplug the MAF it actually runs considerably better, not perfect of course but it actually becomes semi-driveable. I've already replaced the MAF and that wasn't the problem. Took out and cleaned the EGR also. Tried to check for vacuum leaks just using carb cleaner, couldn't find anything that way but there still could be one I guess. Don't know exactly what's best to do next, any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
 
I'm thinking now that it might be my catalytic converter. The thing smokes and makes weird clicking noises and my exhaust is crazy hot.
 
I disconnected the exhaust in front on the converter and tried running it. Didn't help anything.
 
Does it missfire at idle? do you have wideband? boost gauge? wheres your MAF located? do you have a blow off valve? upgraded injectors? hows the injector o rings? spark plugs? wires? coil packs? compression? fuel pressure? spark deliver? lol i could go on.

do you know how to tell the difference between timing issues, air:fuel ratio issues, spark deliver issues? etc? that could also narrow it down.
 
Idle is very erratic when I can actually get it to stay running on its own. Car is purely stock. Brand new o rings, plugs, wires, coil packs are good, compression is good, fuel pressure is good, spark is good. As far as I can tell its a air:fuel ratio problem. If I put my hand over the hole in the air box and restrict how much air it can take in I can sometimes get it to idle and run perfect.
 
sounds like a vacuum leak

either that or an exhaust leak/.
do a seafoam.
once the car is in open loop it will run by guessing the sensors.
it sounds alot like a manifold crack/gasket leak before the O2 sensor
 
Did u check the hotside intercooler pipe? Sometimes it cracks right were the bypass valve connects.
 
make a short pipe throttle-pipe-maf-filter if you idle fine there is a crack/leak in your pipe work. plus it narrows your window down as well as what your problem may be.
 
Checked that bypass valve connection, already have it JB welded back on from when it broke before, no leak there.
On making the short pipe, would it matter that it bypasses the turbo?
 
Jickywoo said:
Checked that bypass valve connection, already have it JB welded back on from when it broke before, no leak there.
On making the short pipe, would it matter that it bypasses the turbo?
Click to expand...

no thats the point. hes saying make the pipe as small as possible, make it so it goes from intake manifold to a small section of pipe, to the MAF sensor, then put a filter right on that. If the car runs right that means its a vacuum leak that must be hidden somewhere else in the pipe, like your intercooler. If it still runs the same then it has nothing to do with your intercooler piping.
 
Maybe its still leaking from were u repaired it. I know i just fixed mine and it broke a day later. I would consider a samco hotside pipe. Its only 125 u cant really go wrong at that price lol.
 
I tried a short pipe with the MAF right to the throttle. Didn't help at all. Guess my next step is to take the intake manifold, egr, throttle body and any other components to do with intake off and clean them or replace them. It's weird because on rare occasions when you start it up the first time it will sit and idle and sound pretty good. If you let it run for a little while like that though it eventually starts to run rough, sputter and dies. I also currently do not have a knock sensor installed, don't know if that would at all make a difference.
 
Took off and cleaned intake manifold, throttle body and egr today, got some new gaskets for them as well. Didn't help at all. From a cold start with the MAF disconnected the car idles perfectly. I took it out and drove it with the MAF disconnected and drives fine except it dies every time you hold the clutch in for around 3-4+ seconds (so at every stoplight). After I got back from the drive it doesnt idle nearly as well as it did before. Idk what the deal is...bout to just sell the dang thing as is and let someone else figure this out...
 
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