Lowered 5, How does this affect ride quality?

chitownpete · Dec 19, 2009

I agree with you DKaz, the stock 5 springs are very good to the point where Im in no rush to replace them. Im glad you are thinking about springs/struts/shocks as a package. I was stupid enough (back in 95) to use lowering springs with stock shocks on my 200sx SE-R and all I got besides a crappy ride was better powerslides (factory Limited slip diff), the car didn't actually corner much better. This was back when I was younger and dumber than I am now.

njaremka · Dec 21, 2009

wedginator said:
Here is the side view with stock rims. I told you my car is dirty.

can you get me a measurement of your car's ride height? front and rear, from fender lip to wheel center.

thanks!

nate0123 · Dec 21, 2009

DKaz said:
Well I meant there are two different types of springs - linear and progressive rate springs, and also different springs have different spring rates. Springs that cause cars to bottom out are linear springs with soft spring rates. I had progressive rate lowering springs on the Corolla that were on the stiffer side and never had bottoming out problems, although because of the stiff rate I had to take rough roads a bit slower to avoid rattling my teeth out, but they made for awesome handling on twisties. The stock Corolla springs were way too soft, made for a great luxurious ride yea but there was absolutely no feel for the road, but with the new springs I got I felt too much road lol. If I were to have done it again I would've gone with H&R springs.

Gotta respond to some dubious information here.

Progressive springs are generally geared towards comfort - as such OEM springs are generally progressive. There's a low initial spring rate which allows some slop and evens out small imperfections in the road. It also allows more initial spring travel when changing directions than the more performance-oriented linear spring, resulting in more body roll, squat, dive, etc. Yes, the progressive nature of the spring means that it compresses through the lower rate and eventually hunkers down when it gets to the higher spring rate as the spring compresses further, but the linear spring is always at that higher rate. It doesn't need to compress through the soft area, so you get more immediate response and less overall suspension travel.

I'm not familiar with these "linear springs with soft spring rates" that you speak of, and in theory that would be a recipe for scraping. But in general, linear springs are designed with performance in mind, and any competent manufacturer will properly balance reduction in ride height with increase in spring rate vs stock, and will be less susceptible to bottoming out than a lowering spring with progressive rate.

Dphillips · Dec 21, 2009

wedginator said:
Here is the side view with stock rims. I told you my car is dirty.

Wow! Thats a nice drop. Looks great. Exactly What im looking for.

Dphillips · Dec 22, 2009

mazdaspeedster3 said:
those just the standard mazda3 springs from h&r then?

+1 ??

DKaz · Dec 22, 2009

These are the springs I used for my Toyota Corolla...

http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_detail.asp?prodid=745&catid=47

They're progressive rate and stiff as f**k, handling and performance wise they were great and so were the prices but they'd be way too stiff for my little one.

H&R's springs are progressive rate as well.

Tein STechs and HTechs are linear rate springs and really soft, with reports of rubbing/bottoming out. Which linear springs provide performance?

nate0123 · Dec 22, 2009

Well, the Mazdaspeed springs I run are linear. Pretty much all coilovers use linear springs. They are more ideally suited to performance setups as they can be directly matched to a damper. Progressive springs are generally no good for performance, as it's difficult to match a damper to the various spring rates they have. As I mentioned before, the soft area is just slop to absorb bumps, and the stiffer area down lower is the area capable of aggressive maneuvers, but by the time you get to that area, the car has already rolled, squatted, dove, etc.

nate0123 · Dec 22, 2009

I don't know this brand, but they have a decent explanation of linear vs. progressive springs: (see item #3)

http://www.swiftsprings.com/faq03.html

DKaz · Dec 23, 2009

Huh interesting, I've just been misguided then by the folks of 9thgencorolla, the consensus there prefer progressive rate springs.

zoooom · Dec 31, 2009

Hi all, I am new here. I just bought the SPC rear upper camber arm. Firstly I bought Celica arm after being told they are the same, but they are not! I have to grind off the bushing to fit M5. Secondly, I just can't remove the upper bolt from the left side arm since there is exhaust hook blocking the bolt. Any tips on how to remove the bolt?

red headz · Jan 1, 2010

zoooom said:
Hi all, I am new here. I just bought the SPC rear upper camber arm. Firstly I bought Celica arm after being told they are the same, but they are not! I have to grind off the bushing to fit M5. Secondly, I just can't remove the upper bolt from the left side arm since there is exhaust hook blocking the bolt. Any tips on how to remove the bolt?

I cannot help you with the wrong part, but I can tell you that the exhaust hanger is a son of a female pooch to get out.

Passenger side RCA took me about 20 minutes.
Drivers side RCA took me about 1.5 hours with most of that time fighting the exhaust, exhaust hangers, and minimal clearance...(stoned)

zoooom · Jan 1, 2010

OK, finally managed to remove the dang! bolt of the left side upper arm after bending the exhaust hook down with a lot of force. Yeah, the right side was easy, but the left side took me many hours. I also shorten the bolt by grinding off half inch so it will be easier next time.

Agree too that the SPC camber arm design is a pain to adjust. I have to remove the shock absorber lower bolt and push the absorber out of the way to adjust the size 34 camber nut.

Anyway, I am happy now that it is done. (yippy)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2006 M5 2.0, 18" RX8 OEM wheel with 45/225 Dunlop.
1994 626 KLZE
1992 Xedos 6 KLZE
1992 MX3 KLZE
Mini 1000 1963
Mini 850 1975

red headz · Jan 1, 2010

zoooom said:
Anyway, I am happy now that it is done. (yippy)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2006 M5 2.0, 18" RX8 OEM wheel with 45/225 Dunlop.

Zoom -

Congrats! (spin) I know how you feel.

You are running RX8's with 225/45R18 tires? Can you post pictures? I currently have 225/40R18 and do not like the rim poking outside the tire. Any curb means the wheels are toasted.

I will be curious if you have a rubbing issue in the rear. I did and had to roll the fenders for more clearance... and my tires are 40 series. I would imagine with your 45's you'll have less clearance that I did.

michael.

VenomDesign · Jan 1, 2010

I was running a 225/40 set-up with no curb rash at all, with a 2" drop on Rx-8 wheels ... but i had negative camber , that help a lot lol.

zoooom · Jan 1, 2010

Michael, before I install the SPC camber arm, I didn't notice any rubbing with my wheel arc. After the install, I haven' tried to carry full load, so not sure if it will rub. Below is the picture of my car. Also attached are the SPC arm pic and the !@%# exhaust hook.

VenomDesign, that is bad looking M5. I will sure have a lot of problem with speed bump with that kind of height.

red headz · Jan 1, 2010

The clearance on that RCA and the exhaust hangar bring back memories

.

Once you lower it (with H&R springs), then you might have rubbing issues, but at stock height, you should be find.

m.

maglito · Jan 18, 2010

Where can you buy the MS3 rear camber kit? Is it a spacer, a stock MS3 upper arm or what? I am also trying to decide between H&R springs and MS3 springs. Perhaps someone could list the pros and cons of each?

So far I've gathered:
MS3 springs
pros: fine with stock struts
cheap (usually less than $100 shipped)
cons: too much drop in the rear

H&R springs
pros: fine with stock struts
more even drop (corksport lists 1.4 inches in the front and 1.3 inches in the rear)
cons: more expensive ($250 @ corksport)

My major concern is ride quality and getting some drop to look OK with aftermarket wheels. I know it is subjective, but which do you think has better ride quality? After a recent injury I am much more sensitive to bumps in the road, but I still want my Mazda5 to look good.
Thanks!

njaremka · Jan 19, 2010

take this into account: the speed3 springs were deisigned for, well, the speed3. the H&R Mazda5 springs were designed to wrok with the mazda5.

if it were my time for springs, i would get the Mazda5 H&R's.

dima_rus · Feb 1, 2010

You can use pretty much everything from Mazda3.

Here are two 5's lowered, both running 225/40/18

skyhawk · Feb 1, 2010

dima_rus said:
You can use pretty much everything from Mazda3.

Here are two 5's lowered, both running 225/40/18

That makes it very good looking summer cars.

Lowered 5, How does this affect ride quality?

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