p5 idle problem

one random day i was at a red light and my idle was going from 200-800 non stop, then i accelerated and it was fine.

a couple days later same problem but this time a check engine light came on. I stopped the car opened the hood, got back in and reved it and it was back to normal.

then yesterday i start my car and having the idle problem 200-800rmp bouncing back and forth. the check engine light was still on. I decided to clean the egr valve but the bolts were too rusted, so i took apart my intake ( short ram, ive had it for a year no problems) and i just wiped the inside of the maf a bit but it wasnt dirty or anything. so i put everything back together start the car and now the check engine is gone but the idle is different. heres a little 10 sec vid on how it is now
http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/ilikeacura/?action=view&current=DSCF0263.flv

so do u think i need a new maf?

find a way to get the egr off, that's the problem. had the same problem, cleaned it, fixed it

EGR can be the problem. But with my car i had a compilation of problems that lead to the bad idle. my car would idle from basically choking up to 1000 constantly. Check the air filter to make sure it's clean and has no punctures in it. Check the air temp sensor. it's the cone shape plastic part that should be inside the filter. If the wires are severed or damage you'll have to rewire it. Then do the EGR clean. let me know how it goes.

hoanmy said:

EGR can be the problem. But with my car i had a compilation of problems that lead to the bad idle. my car would idle from basically choking up to 1000 constantly. Check the air filter to make sure it's clean and has no punctures in it. Check the air temp sensor. it's the cone shape plastic part that should be inside the filter. If the wires are severed or damage you'll have to rewire it. Then do the EGR clean. let me know how it goes.

Click to expand...

Also check your air intake hose to make sure it doesn't have any cracks. This is a common problem with our vehicles.

You shoulda gotten your CEL read, now you're just having to guess at what the problem is

Agreed, it could be a few different things. Sounds exactly like mine last week. Cleaned the EGR and she's good as new. Without a code, you are kind of shooting in the dark. I would at east do the EGR and see what happens. It's easy enough to do........How many miles have you got ? Mine didn't go to crap til almost 138,000

It might be miss firing. Whens the last time you changed your sparkplugs//spark plug wires?

clean egr and seafoam the engine.

How to Sea Foam:
start engine
unplug brake booster tube
maintain the rev's at 2500
pour 1/4 pint seafoam in brake booster slowly
raise revs to 3500, pour another 1/4 pint seafoam in brake booster slowly.
when finished, shut engine off.
Pour 1/4 pint seafoam in crank case, and 1/4 pint seafoam in gas tank.
Let car sit for 5 minutes.
run car for 10 minutes.
Shut car off and change oil and spark plugs.
Drive slowly for 10 minutes.
Drive fast/accelerate fast for 10 minutes.

Also NGK ZFR6F11 plugs are the best for your car.
some say the ZFR5F11 plugs are better but they're the same as the ZFR6F11 plugs except the 6's have a better heat tollerance.
The 5's were recomended before ethonal was introduced into gasoline.
Ethonal burns hotter than traditional gasoline, and the 5's sometimes missfire because of the extra heat. The 6's handle it though.

...and if you were not real careful with the little wire on the MAF you may have damaged it.

DO the above steps and see if that fixes it. If not - borrow a MAF and see if that fixes it.