HOW TO: MS3 Engine Torque Damper Install

Does it really make it THAT loud? I was under the impression that the ETD didn't do all that much in terms of performance or NVH.

ETD is a MASSIVE performance upgrade, but the tradeoff is a big N. not much V or H though.

even upgraded mounts won't give you as much engine stiffening as this will. it totally transforms the car.

kind of a shame there's no more forward mounting point for an ETD in the mazda3. the only available mounting spot is the strut tower, which means the noise is transmitted into the cabin easily.
 
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Thanks for the responses guys. Noise I can put up with (here's hoping it's not excessively loud) but I definitely don't like vibration. The added vibes from the CPE MM was very mild so I'm fairly certain I made the right choice in getting the M3M ETD from PG.

Thanks again for taking care of me Ken.

PS: Did any of you guy figure out if those really are spacers or are they replacement bushings for the damper in the writeup?
 
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Just a suggestion from looking at the pics. It looks like you could mount the front of the damper on the underside of the motor bracket (under the top lip) and then use a spacer and longer bolt on the rear mount. That way you can move the damper further down and allow better access to the oil cap, assuming there isn't anything under there to hit. Of course the longer bolt in back is going to see more stress, but it should be well within what that bolt can take. A stepped spacer with a wide base would also help distribute the load.

I may buy one in a month or so and try it out
 
appreciate the write-up - been looking for one for this etd. but if anything i'm more glad it generated the response below, as i had NO IDEA wtf the bushings were for:

holy s*** NO

those bushings are replacements for the damper...

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the bracket is supposed to be FLUSH against the spacer.

this makes way more sense than putting it on the engine mounts. i can't imagine those plastic "spacers" do much for supporting the engine itself, much less take on 40 ft/lbs of torque without breaking. if it was to raise the bracket, they should have used metal spacers.

i'll be installing this tonight, so we'll see.
 
so i installed it tonight. that sucked. i spent the majority of the time messing around with the engine mount itself, whether it was making sure that the engine was supported sufficiently, getting the nuts off (pretty much stripped the stock nuts), or if it was getting my hands in the crevice to work on getting the bolts in. overall, it sucked.

but i got it on.

i took the damper apart just to make sure that what bani was saying and what i was thinking was right. and the bushings are exactly the same, except for the color.
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i ended up putting the damper underneath both the tower bracket and the engine bracket, as opposed to captain krm p5's below the tower bracket and on top of the engine bracket orientation. i'm not sure what all captain has done under his engine, but without the faux plastic spacers, the damper was still pretty level. this was also more out of the way of the oil cap. it's pretty close to the hoses, but there's no contact whatsoever, and i can't imagine any contact under movement.
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with the damper positioned this way, it still turned out pretty level, and everything seems to have the proper clearance.

so i suggest to captain that he go back and remove those plastic spacers (which are really replacement bushings) before your engine rattles off the mounts.

oh, and thanks for the heads up on the bushings, bani.
 
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this makes way more sense than putting it on the engine mounts. i can't imagine those plastic "spacers" do much for supporting the engine itself, much less take on 40 ft/lbs of torque without breaking. if it was to raise the bracket, they should have used metal spacers.

Seeing that the bushings/spacers are different colour, I wonder if there is any difference in stiffness or how they perform if you swapped out the original orange ones for the black ones included...
 
i have a question. are you able to wiggle the damper back and forth at all? i have the nut tightened all the way, but the damper does wiggle slightly back and forth on the ball mounts.
 
the angle is funny, but the cap in reality rises a hair above all of that assembly and unscrews / screws on as normal



believe it was E6 for the socket. the studs in the engine mount were hand tight honestly when we pulled them out :( so we simply cranked them down as tight as we could go



about one hour

Curious about the principal, is it a friction damper or is it compressing air?
 
Curious about the principal, is it a friction damper or is it compressing air?

I`m not sure it`s either. Given the complete lack of o-rings, it doesn`t look like it`s airtight, so it probably isn`t an air cushion. It looks like it is designed to limit the range of movement and the two "bushings" act as bump stops when it hits the limit at either end. The adjustability is probably there to make sure the bushings are centered when the engine is at rest, so you have equal movement in either direction, but this is a best guess based on one picture.
 
i'll take a video to explain what i mean and also will have a video inside the car to see if you can hear the extra engine audio. :D
 
I'm curious as to what's limiting this product's use on the MS6. Is it slight dimensional differences? It certainly looks easier to install than a front mount -and less of a pain to pull off if you need to.

Is there a comparable product out there for the MS6?

Are you MS3 guys having to give up using strut tower braces to use this?
 
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