HOW TO Install MazdaSpeed CBE on 2008 MazdaSpeed3 pics/vids

Where did you get the Mazdaspeed CBE? I want to get one that's not nearly $700 like the ones from dealers

pimped3 said:

Where did you get the Mazdaspeed CBE? I want to get one that's not nearly $700 like the ones from dealers

Click to expand...

I got mine from the dealer, if I'm not mistaken, it was around 500-550... it was last year when I got it...lol

is there a way to do this without cutting the stock exhaust?

I just cut oout all 3 resinators..save $700 and it sounds MEAN!

i have the cpe cbe but havent installed it yet.. is there a way to remove the stock cbe without cutting it?

nighthawk358 said:

i have the cpe cbe but havent installed it yet.. is there a way to remove the stock cbe without cutting it?

Click to expand...

yes there is a way, but it involves dropping the entire rear sub frame assembly. lot of work, but i'm sure its well worth it. i didn't have the time to do that, so i just cut it off. lol

I know this is old. Finally got my MS CBE. I got it used from a buddy. The donut is obviously used and the gaskets are melted on the exhaust connections.

Should I buy new ones? If so, where from? Mazda dealer or do Pep Boys or similar store sell them?

Thanks guys.

My Mazdaspeed CBE and SU Test Pipejust came in from ********** and I CAN'T WAIT to install this. 1000 THANK YOU's for this write up!!! I've always paid someone to do this install but now I can give it a shot!!

I've done many DIY installs on my previous 3 and this MS3 and I've ALWAYS wanted to do my own CBE install. You made it look less daunting than I imagined. Hell I've done spring + strut installs but the CBE looks EASY compared to that!

I'm just nervous about the cutting and also a question: Was it a pain in the ass to get the CBE off the rubber mounts? I've heard some stories about it being kind of stuck on there and needing needlenose pliers to get them off.

I also got my MSCBE my SU and I installed it today with my dad at his shop. I'll tell you this, I have a huge respect for people who have installed this on jack stands, because, I cannot imagine doing it that way. Having a lift was obviously so much easier, and I understand not everyone has access to one but it made life a lot easier.

Some quirks:
1) The heatshield WILL be an issue. The piece that connects the muffler to the tailpipe will hit the heatshield under bumps. We noticed this right away and tried to adjust as much as we could on the OTHER side of the muffler (the part that you use a clamp on). Also, we used a longer prybar to bend the heatshield out of the way as much as possible.

2) There is a marking on the tubing to line the muffler up to the forward pipe. Problem is, if you line it up perfectly, it pulls hard on the hangers that hold the muffler. The other problem is, line it up too far away from the marking and you will leak. Infact, mine has a very SMALL leak on the top section of the pipe, near the clamp. We've tightened it and adjusted it, used a different type of clamp and it still leaks.

From my dad's recommendation, it's going to seal up over time, simply by rust that will form over it, so it shouldn't be an issue and I felt no hesitations or stutters from it. It's audible only if you're putting your ear next to it, and you can only tell there's a leak by putting your finger over the top of the clamp.

2) It will smoke and stink like a SOB. Atleast that's my case. We had it idling while on the lift for about 20 minutes and white smoke started. Then once I started driving, at stop lights, it would puff. I haven't been back out since but it eventually went away and got real intermittent. It doesn't smell the greatest, but i'm hoping it's only temporary, as i'm sure it is.

3) We did not have to use the new exhaust gasket donut. It was still completely useable and infact, the new gasket donut was smaller in width than the one on the car. We also did not use the new catalytic flange nuts. The ones originally on the car were fine.

I'm glad someone actually revived the thread. I was concerned the original posters would no longer be active on the forums since this was from 2007. Either way, it helped in my research and installation, so thanks OP!

ZooMIN3 said:

yes there is a way, but it involves dropping the entire rear sub frame assembly. lot of work, but i'm sure its well worth it. i didn't have the time to do that, so i just cut it off. lol

Click to expand...

Has anyone done a how to in removing the exhaust without cutting it?

you should be able to get new donuts from the parts store or an exhaust shop, if not use the mazda dealer the is a sponser on this forum ive found they are way better on pricing then my local dealer and generaly ships out in a day or two.

realisticly there is no reason to not cut it out. if woried about resaling it only cost $20 to have rewelded.

if any isues with removal with hangers spray with lubricant oil and will come off easialy and the hard ones you can give a quick spray bafore reinstall.

dkswim said:

you should be able to get new donuts from the parts store or an exhaust shop, if not use the mazda dealer the is a sponser on this forum ive found they are way better on pricing then my local dealer and generaly ships out in a day or two.

realisticly there is no reason to not cut it out. if woried about resaling it only cost $20 to have rewelded.

if any isues with removal with hangers spray with lubricant oil and will come off easialy and the hard ones you can give a quick spray bafore reinstall.

Click to expand...

The reason I want to remove it without cutting it is just in case i get a modified exhaust ticket, I'd want to be able to put the stocker back on so I can fix it.

Instead of dropping the subframe over and over to swap uncut exhausts, you're better off paying a shop the $20 to weld it together and save yourself a crapton of hassle.

Kain said:

Instead of dropping the subframe over and over to swap uncut exhausts, you're better off paying a shop the $20 to weld it together and save yourself a crapton of hassle.

Click to expand...

Yeah I guess so thanks!

Thanks for the useful thread.

How loud?

i am looking to get the mazda cbe for my speed. Ive seen the video that is on the first post, the exhaust sounds great, but can anyone tell me how much louder the mazda cbe is compaired to stock? I know the Cobb cbe is only a tiny bit louder than stock and I am looking for something with more volume.

The MSCBE is virtually silent inside the car. You obviously can tell you have exhaust but it's not louder than stock. Stock CBE did this terrible drone off throttle on the e-way. That is completely gone with the MSCBE.

I lower my windows and enjoy the Subie-style sound!

i just installed my hks cbe and all in all it was a pain in the rear having to cut it then to put the spring bolts back on...the spring bolt is what took the longest because....well the springs fight you but it was worth it, both my arms are numb but it sounds incredible. if you have the right cutting tool and a new blade or whatever your using it goes through the exhaust like butter.

so after a year of the CBE laying on the garage floor, I finally found some time and used this HOW-TO to install it. It was spot on, excellent guide! Thanks for the well written How-To.

mad props...sub
95% of us cut it off. you can use a coupler when you put it back on there.
dropping the sub-frame is not worth it.

when cutting get a good metal specific blade. and use some WD-40 for lubrication...or you gonna snap the blade.