Mod planning

G

Gasological

Member
:
'03 MSP #493
Ok, I just got the MSP a couple months ago, and a couple weeks ago started modding, got hardpipes with an HKS to kill compressor surge. Its a daily driver, and intends to stay that way, though maybe I'll go have some fun with autocross. I'm trying to keep the budget reasonable and the mod schedule spaced so that if something starts acting up, I can figure out what the culprit is. Basically, I've plotted out the following:

SMIC, CAI, Vibrant TB, PG intake manifold, turbo timer, boost gauge, AF gauge, unichip

Probably in something like that order. Want to keep around 8-10 psi on the boost, and keep it safe. Comments?
 
i'd put the unichip (or any EMS) closer to the beginning.

bring the boost gauge closer to the front, as well.

vibrant ahead of the intake.

add some motor mounts somewhere in there, also.
 
i'd do boost gauge to begin with.. it shouldn'd even cross your mind to not put this first.. the reason i say this is if by any chance your WGA ***** up, your gonna go BOOM before you think something is wrong.. and that little 50$ gauge is gonna be telling you something Is wrong.

im at about the same as you.. only i did the hot pipe and a BPV in aftermarket.. also i added a drop K&N filter in my original airbox .. some will say a CAI is worth it and some don't.. no gains except sound..

in a few weeks im installing some mounts

next im doing exaust.. well removing cats actually.. costs peanuts to do and will bring alot of HP for very little money( not that much HP) and will give a chance to up the boost a little..like 8 psi which will be done by using a ATP WGA.. not a boost controller.. since i don't want spikes.. my OEM WGA is gonna screw itself anyways.. and it cost 60$.. so ;)
 
Boost gauge first. That is THE best line of defense you can have against blowing up your car.

I would stick with doing the Unichip last, as you have planned. You don't want to start messing with your ECU and fuel maps before you have good supporting mods installed. Again, defense against blowing up your car.

Make sure you get a wideband and not a 'narrow-band' A/F gauge.

Yes, motor mounts are a good idea. I'd look into the SLS. If you don't mind cabin vibration, the AWR is also an option.

I'd also suggest a downpipe. However, options are very limited on that front.

You might also want to consider picking up an aftermarket exhaust manifold, as our stock ones inevitably crack. Check out this sticky for info on those: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123663213

Other than that, good mod list. :)
 
Thanks for the help guys. My understanding is that if you're going to get a TB exhaust, you should probably get the downpipe as well, and if you don't feel like replacing the downpipe every few weeks, you damn sure better get motor mounts, so really, the exhaust and its extras add up to something like $1,000. Might as well get all the gauges in one go to simplify installation. Yes, I mainly want the CAI for the sound... *looks at toes*. I'd imagine the TT should probalby move up some, but I generally don't mind sitting in the car for twenty seconds before turning it off anyway. So:

Boost gauge, WB O2, SMIC, Exhaust and friends, CAI, Intake mani, Unichip

I shouldn't have any problems passing MD emissions with these mods, right? Any guesses on HP when all is said and done?
 
Rush said:
I would stick with doing the Unichip last, as you have planned. You don't want to start messing with your ECU and fuel maps before you have good supporting mods installed. Again, defense against blowing up your car.
Click to expand...

i say put that near the beginning simply because of how poorly the car is originally tuned.

i definitely wouldn't install the boost controller or run any aggressive map w/out supporting mods, but there's definitely a significant benefit to be had.

but whatever. my 2 cents.
 
Depends on where you would dyno. I'd say around 200 whp at 8 psi with those mods on a dynojet. My car with mods in my sig minus the intake mani hit 206 at 9 psi dynojet hp.
 
I don't know about MD inspection/emissions .. but I know of another forum member that lives in PA, and he passed with only a single cat. So I think you should be fine.

As far as HP .. I'll be able to tell you in about two months. My mods will be close enough to 'in the ballpark' of what you'll be getting to give you a decent rough estimate.

warrier04 said:
i say put that near the beginning simply because of how poorly the car is originally tuned.

i definitely wouldn't install the boost controller or run any aggressive map w/out supporting mods, but there's definitely a significant benefit to be had.
Click to expand...
Oh, you're right -- the stock tune is one huge piece of s***. ANYTHING is better than it.

I was suggesting delaying the Unichip until the end (not only because of raising the boost, but also cause) if he's planning on having it tuned specifically for his car. That way, when it's installed and tuned .. all of his mods will be done, and he won't have to spend more $$$ for re-tuning.
 
Speaking of getting the unichip tuned, any decent place to get that done that doesn't involve driving to the HQ?
 
Cool. You'll have to let me know if they're any good. I thought the unichip was somewhat proprietary and wasn't very tunable by outsiders. Probably pulling that out of my ass though.
 
crashkelly said:
so many of these threads already...
Click to expand...


Yeah, but they're all a little different. And up until people start arguing, there's generally some really good information in them.
 
out of curiosity and no im not threadjacking here,

how hard is it to install a a unichip? is it pretty much plug and play?
 
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