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- MP5
hey what goes into the bung and is it supposed to be pretty loud? I got injen cai and a obx header! and im not sure if this is right but... when im at like 3k rpms it vibrates bad- any suggestions>?
MAM midpipe questions
- Thread starter ghettobubba2001
- Start date
For the P5 you just plug the bung since our second O2 sensor is located in the header. It's probably hitting the crossmember below or causing the exhaust past the midpipe to hit the heatshield near the shifter. I had big problems getting it not to hit the crossmember, but it's workable.
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- MP5
plug the bung- not quite gettin ya? where do i order these - can i pick it up @ like home depot? - im assuming its a screw of some sort.
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- MP5
its not only that too... i seems like it makes a louder noise @ 3k rpm for some reason - should i reset ecu and that should possibly help?- i have msp oval exhaust otw!
can you tell where the vibrations are coming from? from what i know, the MAM midpipe doesn't clear the cross member under the car so you'll have to put washers between the body of the car and the crossmember to gain clearance and keep the crossmember. you might also have to find longer bolts to use to bolt up the crossmember. if not, just take the crossmember off.
-OR-
that noise could be the leak in your exhaust system caused by the open O2 bung. or it could be that your header and midpipe isn't sealed properly and you have another leak there also.
but, assuming that there is no leaks, it should sound semi loud pending on your exhaust system. i know the mazdaspeed exhaust can be quite loud if your running a straight pipe. but like HKS and the GREDDY exhaust systems have a nice deep tone to it.
that bung your looking at is for your second O2 sensor. if you have the midpipe with the hi-flow cat, then you could extend your O2 sensor wires to reach that O2 bung and it should help with the check engine light problem. if your not going to use it, then i'd suggest that you plug it with a bolt. i'm pretty sure you can find one at a hardware store or home depot. so you'd probably have to take your midpipe off and go size up a bolt that would fit.
-OR-
that noise could be the leak in your exhaust system caused by the open O2 bung. or it could be that your header and midpipe isn't sealed properly and you have another leak there also.
but, assuming that there is no leaks, it should sound semi loud pending on your exhaust system. i know the mazdaspeed exhaust can be quite loud if your running a straight pipe. but like HKS and the GREDDY exhaust systems have a nice deep tone to it.
that bung your looking at is for your second O2 sensor. if you have the midpipe with the hi-flow cat, then you could extend your O2 sensor wires to reach that O2 bung and it should help with the check engine light problem. if your not going to use it, then i'd suggest that you plug it with a bolt. i'm pretty sure you can find one at a hardware store or home depot. so you'd probably have to take your midpipe off and go size up a bolt that would fit.
anarchistchiken
Member
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- 03 Silver Protege5
I went to a junkyard and pulled a dead 02 sensor from an old protege. Just find out what size and thread pattern an O2 sensor is and go buy a bolt of the same dimension.
Or you could just buy a wideband soince the hole needs to be pugged anyway
By the way, I've had my midpipe on for over a year and it's never gotten close to hitting the cross member. There's a good 1.5" of clearence between the mid pipe and the cross member.
Or you could just buy a wideband soince the hole needs to be pugged anyway
By the way, I've had my midpipe on for over a year and it's never gotten close to hitting the cross member. There's a good 1.5" of clearence between the mid pipe and the cross member.
it might be pretty loud because you have a hole in your midpipe, until this is pluged it will continue to be very loud. it is essentially an exhaust leak.
once it is plugged, you will continue to be fairly loud, because you have no cats. the header removed one and the midpipe removed one. but on the positive side you have a faily quiet muffler in the oval MSP axle-back.
fisrt things first, buy an 18mm oil drain plug and plug the bung in the midpipe.
once it is plugged, you will continue to be fairly loud, because you have no cats. the header removed one and the midpipe removed one. but on the positive side you have a faily quiet muffler in the oval MSP axle-back.
fisrt things first, buy an 18mm oil drain plug and plug the bung in the midpipe.
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- MP5
for now i have a broken O2 sensor in there :0 ( in that hole) ( and i didnt want to overtighten the part where the header connects the midpipe- should i tighten it all the way that i can?
ZoomZoom03
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege 5
which version of the MAM midpipe do u all own...and in regards to choosing, i want one with a hi-flow cat, but do u recommend the stainless stell one or the mild steel one??
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- MP5
mild steel catless - dont rele care if it rusts!
ghettobubba2001 said:
no, don't tighten it all the way down. tighten just enough to put some tension on those springs, because if you tighten them all the way down you have no flex in the system.
you might just need to bend your hangers a little bit, but first confirm that it does or doesn't hit the crossmember. if it does, and its a cat-less version then there is a good posibility you have a broken or overly weak motor mount or two. even a single AWR mount, or the Weapon*R dampner could reduce engine lash a lot.
as for a resonance at 3000rpms, it could just be the resonance of your exhaust system, or the stock heat shield under the car, and you WILL be much louder than stock with the catless setup, no matter what kind of muffler you have on there.
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- Titanium MazdaSpeed Protege
ZoomZoom03 said:
get Stainless since you live in New Jersey.
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- MP5
i have the stock exhaust on now and a cheap O2 sensor on the bung- buying an 18 mm bolt to go in it today- is that the correct size- ill play with the hangers when iget home
rednecks_r_us
Member
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- 2003 Laser Blue Protege5
When I installed my MAM midpipe it vibrated against my crossmember and the bottom of my kartboy shifter and the heatshield.
To fix this I installed AWR motormounts, Kartbou exhaust hangers, bent the hangers on the midpipe to create clearance from the crossmember & removed the heat shield.
No more noises or vibrations under the car. I got the hardest AWR (manual tranny )mounts and now my dash vibrates. So even if you have a stick shift car get the auto mounts from AWR they are a little softer.
As for the bung in the MAM pipe I cut my wires from the 2nd O2 sensor and lengthened them with the same guage wire. By installing the 2nd O2 there and the first in my header I no longer have a CEL.
I'm over 80 thousand miles on my car and still going strong. 117 whp on the dyno out of a 95 whp car.
To fix this I installed AWR motormounts, Kartbou exhaust hangers, bent the hangers on the midpipe to create clearance from the crossmember & removed the heat shield.
No more noises or vibrations under the car. I got the hardest AWR (manual tranny )mounts and now my dash vibrates. So even if you have a stick shift car get the auto mounts from AWR they are a little softer.
As for the bung in the MAM pipe I cut my wires from the 2nd O2 sensor and lengthened them with the same guage wire. By installing the 2nd O2 there and the first in my header I no longer have a CEL.
I'm over 80 thousand miles on my car and still going strong. 117 whp on the dyno out of a 95 whp car.
ZoomZoom03
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege 5
rednecks_r_us said:
might be a stupid ques, but oh well...how many hangers do u need?? i see u can buy in a set of 4
thanx in advance
rednecks_r_us
Member
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- 2003 Laser Blue Protege5
I would get the complete set of 4.
ZoomZoom03
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege 5
rednecks_r_us said:
ok im gonna order the AT AWR motor mounts, now did u do the full front and rear set, or just the front ones?? from all my reading it seems the rears are quite a pain to do. i already ordered the Kartboy hangers.
