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LOL, I have the same soot slick in my garage, everyone tells me its cheap gas but I have only used Chevron mid grade for going on 3 years now didn't think Chevron was cheap gas. Next thing your gonna tell me is every once in a while upon initial start up you get white smoke.

You know what you are describing sounds alot like what my tick sounds like but I cant figure it out either. By any chance does it sound like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=An9zjkpUVaY ?

The dynamat probably will add I'd say 30-35 lbs if you do it as 1 big sheet

Well, to do it with Dynamat you need 2 trunk kits to properly cover the floor front to back and you are looking anywhere from $220-$260 and it is about a half day job to do it yourself. You can go with other brands like Second Skin or Fat Mat for a fraction of the price and achive the same...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=An9zjkpUVaY ok so here is a video of the rattle, not a greeat camera so it is alot louder in person, the mike picked up the intake more than anything but at the end of each rev you can here it "rat-a-tat-tat", By the way when I just started the car I got the white...

When you said soundproofed did you mean you used Dynamat, Second Skin, Fat Mat or any other sound deadening material? The most important part is the floor, I have Dynamat all the way from the front footwell to the hatch applied as 1 big sheet and that cut noise almost to 0

When I had the complete tune up done I had mentioned the ticking noise and told him I read on this forum about the notorious screw so he pulled the valve cover and checked (I believe that is what he pulled) and he checked the cylinder linings and he told me they looked new and clean with no...

100% god's honest truth, at every fillup on my trip I calculated my MPG and every time it was high 35's - low 36's, I even texted my friend who has an S10 every time needless to say he was gettin pissed. I was able to get about 440 miles between fillups and I had that stupid tick the whole time

I have this ticking noise which I have traced to somewhere around the intake manifold. I've had it for about a year and a half now at first it didn't do it too much then it has gotten increasingly worse and now its very loud and annoying. I keep reading about the VICS (?) screw at the butterfly...

I love everything about this car but I have 1 complaint: PISS POOR FORD CHARGING SYSTEM!!! the stupid computer turning on and off the alt to get better gas milage is horendous. I have a custom built high output alt (186 amp@2000rpm) with a chip built into it to trick the computer into thinking...

good luck with Ohio Generators http://www.ohiogen.com they are good people there and will answer all your questions. If you call talk to Gus, he'll talk your ear off but he will answer all your questions. It's funny how much they hate the Mazda charging system. Have fun with your new powerful...

Trust me, I've been dealing with the horrible charging system in the Pro5 for a while now. First off it's not the ECU you need to worry about it's the PCM that is the biggest culprit with the charging issues. When I first contacted Ohio Generator about getting the high output alternator built I...

Yea, not too good to be true but a reliable product without all that "name brand" mark-up. My first set-up in my '03 Pro5 was 2 Pioneer 12's in a downfire ported enclosure and that started things coming loose, lol, so be prepared for the inevitable. I've only been to Texas once in '03 for the...

Dynamat is the best deadening material out but as you noticed not exactly on the inexpensive side (unless you were lucky and picked some up at the Cicuit City liquidation at 30% off). I used a product called Fatmat in my Pro5, it works really good and at a fraction of the cost. You can pick up a...

For the Protege5 you must remember the stock alternator is only 90 amps so after all the factory equipment is added up you only have about 10 amps to spare and the general rule of thumb is for every 10 watts of power (RMS, not peak) you have you are pulling 1 amperage of power so anything more...

We tried and we tried but could not get that darn oem alt. through the top, luckily my friend is a mini trucker so he knew how to do all that mechanical junk so removing the axle was nothing for him. I see your Manta's are polished, mine are chrome (they look better with the laser blue paint)...

So changing the altenator really sucks, huh? When I got my high out-put altenator I went to the dealer to find out how much it would cost to install and they told me 4 hours at $85 an hour cause the axle has to be pulled and I was like yea right so me and a friend tried to do the change...

Man, I'm glad I found this post, my '03 started making the clicking noise in the summer and hasn't stopped since. Only when putting a load on the motor and not at idle, also since this started I have been going through oil like there is no tomorrow. No drips under the car and no visible leaks on...

I've had the altenator on for about 8 months now, it was built at Ohio Generator (they strictly build altenators for sound competition vehicles). It does have a smaller diameter pully and it specs out at 186 amps at 3200 rpm, when the 4 guage wire (from the altenator) is removed from the battery...

'03 laser blue mica for me