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The extra wires are for cost savings. It is cheaper to wire up every car using one harness instead of making multiple styles of wire harnesses. I never did get around to testing those wires to see if they got any signal/power, but I would bet someone else must have by now. And the two threads...

1. You need to get Kenwood radio keys. Any good car audio shop will have a set they might let you borrow or keep if they have extra 2. You will need to give it hell to pull it out. There is a rubber support on the back that is firmly slid into an alignment/mounting hole. I had to use a pliers on...

I confirmed that it was originally purchased in December from Steed directly as part of his "winter beer fund sale". By my math that would make it a v3.

I'll try and confirm this. I'll send you a framed photograph for $50

SOLD! Brand New SteedSpeed exhaust manifold for the MSP + New OEM Mazda manifold gasket and turbo inlet gasket. I bought it off of the forums and never got around to installing it. Now I am selling my car and the manifold isn't going with it. There is a small scratch on the front of the...

The dirt in the engine bay was likely a side effect of stagnant air in the engine bay.

The brake caliper/piston/slide pins can all rust and seize the assembly in almost any position. My bet is the slide pins rusted up and fixed the caliper in position. The piston then only pushes the inner pad against the rotor and the outer pad doesn't move.

Black tinted MS6 in the Lannon roundabout. Looked confused as hell when I gave him a wave (it was probably the roundabout).

You usually can reuse the ballasts and ignitors but not the same bulbs. Aftermarket or Retrofit projectors use D2S bulbs that are considerably different from the H4 "plug & play" kits out there. Honestly, you will probably spend less money buying all the pieces to do a retrofit at once. That way...

The best way to tell if the HID's are causing the problem is to disconnect them and see what happens. If that doesn't work, disconnect your amp and capacitor. The cap will affect your headlights and should actually help with a current surge like turning on the headlights (if wired in correctly)...

The overflow should be venting to atmosphere, check that the hose isn't plugged. When you change the coolant you should fill the radiator up to the top of the filler cap and then run the engine for about 5 minutes (until t-stat opens) with the radiator cover off. This allows trapped air to...

Your radiator will bubble no matter what if the coolant gets drained from the system. It is just trapped air in the passageways finding its way out once the coolant starts flowing. I can almost guarantee it is not bubbling from a blown head gasket. As for the "sensor issue" the other mechanic...

And unmetered air if you didn't relocate the MAF.

That's what I figured you were talking about. It does help airflow through the engine bay like dmention7 said. You could take it off and maybe you won't notice many/any differences... but I wouldn't.

Many of the plastic pieces under the car are designed to direct/deflect air in some way (Google "air dam" or "diffuser"). Usually they help direct air under the car and allow air to flow through the engine compartment properly. Some do have "scoops" that direct air to certain components to help...

The premium bearings are usually made to tighter tolerances out of more pure metals. Both will work, but you'll end up replacing the cheaper one much sooner and you'll have to buy it again.

It is in the engine compartment fuse box on the drivers side. I don't have a physical picture, but maybe the line drawing attached will help.

Are you looking for how to remove the center panel? If so this thread explains it well http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?55382-How-To-Disabling-Automatic-A-C-Defrost-modes

I couldn't find any gasket kits when I was looking, I just bought them from Mazda direct. Crossover does have the turbo to downpipe gasket, I'm not sure about the rest of them... The Mazda part numbers are 0000-88-C17 for the turbo inlet and FS01-13-460A for the exhaust manifold. Prices were...