What have you done to your CX-5 today?

I have both the Sprint Booster and the JB4. The Sprint Booster really makes the car feel more responsive off the line as a result of the "compressed" throttle input. It makes the car feel like it has more power, but it doesn't. The JB4 actually improves HP and TQ, and is most noticeable in the 3k+ RPM range. Personally I run both. I keep the SB off in the winter, and set to Sport-7 in the summer.
Correct

Sprint booster for increased acceleration
JB4 for increased power

I’m happy with just the sprint booster right now! Maybe one day I’ll install the JB4 😅
 
Switched insurance companies. Current had the audacity to raise my rates again, but this time close to $60/mo in terms of a price hike and there was no way I was paying $268/mo for an 11 year old car.

Shopped around and found better coverage with lower deductibles ($500 collision, $750 comprehensive) for $94/mo. My previous insurance had $1000 deductibles for both. Now I fully expect that to be a teaser rate before it gets jacked up at the next 6-month term, but I can't imagine they'll jack it up as high as what the old insurance did. I had shopped around before and not found much better when it last was getting raised 1-2 years ago, so not sure why I was suddenly able to find cheaper stuff now. But hopefully can get a decent year or two here before I jump ship to another insurer for cheaper rates.
 
Switched insurance companies. Current had the audacity to raise my rates again, but this time close to $60/mo in terms of a price hike and there was no way I was paying $268/mo for an 11 year old car.

Shopped around and found better coverage with lower deductibles ($500 collision, $750 comprehensive) for $94/mo. My previous insurance had $1000 deductibles for both. Now I fully expect that to be a teaser rate before it gets jacked up at the next 6-month term, but I can't imagine they'll jack it up as high as what the old insurance did. I had shopped around before and not found much better when it last was getting raised 1-2 years ago, so not sure why I was suddenly able to find cheaper stuff now. But hopefully can get a decent year or two here before I jump ship to another insurer for cheaper rates.
My sister used to work in the insurance biz. She said they do it on purpose, it is called "churn". If people are willing to pay, then good, otherwise they don't really care.
 
Gave mine a bath. Finally nearing the end of the road salt season here in Pennsylvania 😀

Isn't that wonderful? Get to deal with it in my neck of the woods, too.

What I use, a couple days after the road salt's worn off the roads: StarBrite Salt Off. A hose-down rinse, plus a treatment of that stuff, let it sit, followed by a full wash. About as good as I can do. Fortunately, where I live there often isn't much snow or ice, so they typically only do a couple/three treatments annually.

Wish there were a "spray" treatment to cure potholes, though. :confused:

 
What I use, a couple days after the road salt's worn off the roads: StarBrite Salt Off. A hose-down rinse, plus a treatment of that stuff, let it sit, followed by a full wash. About as good as I can do. Fortunately, where I live there often isn't much snow or ice, so they typically only do a couple/three treatments annually.
Salt dissolves in water, so is this really needed?
 
Salt dissolves in water, so is this really needed?

Dissolving's great. It helps move what salt it can grab and to move it off the surfaces. But water isn't a neutralizer. Trouble is, the corrosive action begins the instant such salts/brines touch a surface. If chemical analysis of surfaces were done after flooding them with water, I'd be very surprised if all traces of salt were erased from them. (Lots of little, even microscopic, nooks and crannies on surfaces despite whatever coatings might be one them ... even on 'smooth' painted panels.)

A good underbody coating helps; a good paint job helps; a good coating of various other parts helps (ie, powder coating or anodizing). But plenty of painted cars have that typical "salt/brine cancer" after years of failure to wash away and neutralize such salts. Myself, I'd prefer to avoid as much of that risk as possible, with the neutralizing step.
 
i installed the hardwire kit for my viofo a229 pro dashcam today, the other day i installed the oem remote start kit for my car, was going to install hood struts today, but dhl decided to skip my house on Friday and say they attempted, even though i watched them just drive by without even stopping, still need a passenger side vent and i'd like to get an oem homelink mirror kit, also need to do all fluids, also need to do spark plugs and replace the oil control valve gasket as i have a leak from there, still have to clean this caked on gunk on my engine bay off (looks like oil with dirt embedded in it), my car was missing the front engine splash guards, so i've got those shipped to the boarder, and my dad is going to pick them up for me when he gets back from his Florida trip
 
today i finished routing the usb c cable for my rear dashcam, had it 98% routed, just needed to push it through the rubber part on the hatch where the brake light wires go through, got that done and now it looks professional, also took the climate controls out and apart, and cleaned and lubed the buttons with white lithium grease as my heated seat buttons were sticking, radio buttons were too but i didn't get to that as most of my day was spent on the climate controls because to take that part out you have to remove the center console and a whole bunch of other trim panels, but luckily the radio is just 2 trim panels and 2 screws and a bolt, i also got most of the gunk from my engine bay out, i let the car warm up in a garage, then brake clean was working, but taking some of the paint off with it.
 
Found out my CV axle is leaking on the driver's side after all of this suspension and wheel bearing work. Oh joy... I'm just trying to remind myself it's got almost 150K miles on it.
 
today i finished routing the usb c cable for my rear dashcam, had it 98% routed, just needed to push it through the rubber part on the hatch where the brake light wires go through, got that done and now it looks professional, also took the climate controls out and apart, and cleaned and lubed the buttons with white lithium grease as my heated seat buttons were sticking, radio buttons were too but i didn't get to that as most of my day was spent on the climate controls because to take that part out you have to remove the center console and a whole bunch of other trim panels, but luckily the radio is just 2 trim panels and 2 screws and a bolt, i also got most of the gunk from my engine bay out, i let the car warm up in a garage, then brake clean was working, but taking some of the paint off with it.
There is no need to use brake cleaner in an engine bay and it's pretty harsh. Just wash it with soap & water with some degreaser mixed in.
 
So, at 78,800 K miles on our 2019 signature 2.2 diesel, the OEM factory front pads are at 7mm/7mm pad thickness (outer/inner) for both front brakes. The OEM factory rears are 4mm/5mm on the left side and 5mm/5mm on the right. Brakes normally smooth and steady with no vibration or pulsing.

View attachment 321802

The Conti LX25's have about 45k miles on them and are at 7/32 tread depth (when new they had 10/32 tread) with even wear across the tread. Tires are smooth riding quiet and comfortable as they were new with the exception of degraded hydroplaning resistance.
View attachment 321803

Brake and tire wear rates vary greatly from person to person based on environment and particular driving style.

Now at 90,000 miles on the 2019 2.2 diesel signature. Oil change and tire rotation in the driveway this weekend. Still running great with no issues.

OEM brakes and rotors. Pads are 6mm/6mm inner/outer on front and 4mm/4mm inner/outer rear.
20240317_152300-COLLAGE.jpg


Replacement Continental CrossContact LX25 went on @ 33,000 miles so they have about 57000 miles of use on them and currently at 6/32 tread depth (10/32 tread when new)
IMG_20240316_173019103.jpg
 
Went through and cleaned the windows and shined up the dash and interior.
I've found nothing works better than a sponge with soap and water, then squeegee off into a towel. Spot treat streaks with glass cleaner and a **clean** microfiber cloth.

**Microfibers should be put through 2 rinse cycles and never use fabric softener or it will smear on the glass.
 
I've found nothing works better than a sponge with soap and water, then squeegee off into a towel. Spot treat streaks with glass cleaner and a **clean** microfiber cloth.

**Microfibers should be put through 2 rinse cycles and never use fabric softener or it will smear on the glass.
I'll try that!
 
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