Mazdaspeed Protege Idle issue…Help

[Awd405]

Sooooo, I have an issue with my msp protege where it drops below 500rpm after I rev it or when I stop. I checked hoses for leaks, checked out the air cleaner, etc. I was wondering if the MAP sensor could be causing this problem or what. I pulled the hose off the throttle body that comes from the evap canister stuff and reved it up and it idled back down normally, so idk if I have an issue where Im not getting enough airflow or something like that. Figured map sensor would be worth a shot. My dads 5.4l triton idled like s*** with a bad MAPS. Any help is appreciated

 

[stevie5189]

Make sure you're 100% sure the pipes are well seated. Had a similar problem, where I would stall when coming to a stop and was really down on power when driving around. Mechanic said the hose coming from the turbo to the inter-cooler was coming off under acceleration, even though it looked fine from a glance.

 

[Awd405]

Make sure you're 100% sure the pipes are well seated. Had a similar problem, where I would stall when coming to a stop and was really down on power when driving around. Mechanic said the hose coming from the turbo to the inter-cooler was coming off under acceleration, even though it looked fine from a glance.

I'll check that out, thanks

 

[njaremka]

The EGR valve on those engines has the tendency to collect carbon and stick open, which can cause idle droop issues, too.

 

[Awd405]

The EGR valve on those engines has the tendency to collect carbon and stick open, which can cause idle droop issues, too.

How do I go about deleting egr? I have to change the exhaust manifold anyway so I'd be right there. I dont want a check engine light either

 

[njaremka]

There is a tube that runs from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold, and the valve is bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. I believe you can delete the tube, cap the exhaust manifold port, then, pull the EGR valve and make a "blank" gasket from a soda can, and reinstall the valve with the blanking gasket. That should effectively eliminate the EGR. You can leave the valve plugged in so the ECU doesn't see the missing connection.

 

[Awd405]

There is a tube that runs from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold, and the valve is bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. I believe you can delete the tube, cap the exhaust manifold port, then, pull the EGR valve and make a "blank" gasket from a soda can, and reinstall the valve with the blanking gasket. That should effectively eliminate the EGR. You can leave the valve plugged in so the ECU doesn't see the missing connection.

Hell yeah that would be awesome, probably run better too without the hot exhaust fumes recirculating through my engine.

 

[njaremka]

EGR will only open when the car is running at steady state, like on the highway at cruising speed. Other than that, It will typically stay closed. Until it gets clogged, then it won't close and throws a code.

 

[Awd405]

EGR will only open when the car is running at steady state, like on the highway at cruising speed. Other than that, It will typically stay closed. Until it gets clogged, then it won't close and throws a code.

Sweet, thanks for the info I will check it out. Will probably be a while though. I still have to get the stuff to seal my oil lines for my turbo for when I go yo change the manifold. Is there a gssket on the s pipe or does it seal different?