Installing RF P300-10 sub this weekend on GT w/ Bose

CX5Gris

Member
So I ordered a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 and an Audio Control LC2i to do this install. As recommended in other posts I am planning on tapping (posi taps) the rear speakers (to get full range signal) into the LOC and then in to the sub.

Anybody knows the speaker wire size in the factory Bose? I assume it is 16-18 awg.

If anybody has any suggestions or recommendations I am all ears. I'll post pics of the install ....thanks
 
The "rear" speakers? Do you mean the rear doors or the far rear (D-pillar)? If you are referring to the D-pillar speakers, they are mono - so you'd only have to tap one. (The rear doors are stereo, but I don't know if they are full range or not.)
 

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Yes..i meant the rear door speakers...I see that many are also replacing the factory dear door Bose speakers with JBL 6.5" (2ohms) coaxials....it seems to work since the factory bose are 3.7ohms....any experience with that?
 
So I ordered a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 and an Audio Control LC2i to do this install. As recommended in other posts I am planning on tapping (posi taps) the rear speakers (to get full range signal) into the LOC and then in to the sub.

Anybody knows the speaker wire size in the factory Bose? I assume it is 16-18 awg.

If anybody has any suggestions or recommendations I am all ears. I'll post pics of the install ....thanks


Yes..i meant the rear door speakers...I see that many are also replacing the factory rear door Bose speakers with JBL 6.5" (2ohms) coaxials....it seems to work since the factory bose are 3.7ohms....any experience with that?
 
So I ordered a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 and an Audio Control LC2i to do this install. As recommended in other posts I am planning on tapping (posi taps) the rear speakers (to get full range signal) into the LOC and then in to the sub.

Anybody knows the speaker wire size in the factory Bose? I assume it is 16-18 awg.

If anybody has any suggestions or recommendations I am all ears. I'll post pics of the install ....thanks


I have the RF P300-12, which is the same amp but with a bigger box and speaker. I had VERY poor results. The subwoofer's output is inaccurate with the rear doors' Bose speaker signals and lacking output. Pulling signal from the front lo-mid range was even worse with severe muddiness. Gain and crossover tuning did not help. The worst part was the Bose's high frequencies sounded very harsh, thin, and almost shrill whenever the amp pulled signal from the speakers. With the signals unattached to the amp, it sounded normal again.

Read my posts here:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...fier-Integration-into-Bose-Audio-How-To/page6

and especially here:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...powered-rf-subwoofer-speaker-level-input.html


The only difference is I didn't use a LOC as the RF P300 has line level input. The phase and hi/low input settings didn't help either. I suspect that the Bose's digital process/amp modifies the signal whenever there is a heavy draw. The subwoofer active with the AudioPilot2 on made it worse as the Bose's mic recorded sound differences that didn't match with factory parameters, making the highs even more harsh than it already was.

Let us know if you have any luck with the LC2i. I read an Amazon review on a LC2i in a CX-5 with Bose that had similar results I got even with the LC2i.
 
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Thank you for the info! I read this before but I didn't realize that you had also tried feeding from rear door. I was thinking that maybe your sub internal LOC is not working properly or the voltage may be out of the sub LOC parameters sans the LC2i may help. I guess we will find that out...

Another thing that crossed my mind is replacing the rear door and dash speakers for JBL or CDT 2- 3 ohm speakers. Would this help improve the signal to the sub?
 
I'd pull the signal right from the back of the factory radio and run those wires as short as possible and away from any other wires to the LC2. If you can use shielded wire and ground the shield only on one end than even better. I had to learn the hard way about ground loops, which can cause otherwise good components to not sound good at all and cause interference in others. The LC2 is capable of stepping up the line level voltage to 8 volts, which I recommend you do if your amplifier can take that much voltage on the input. Be careful where you run the RCA to, you don't want that anywhere near any other wires if you can help it. I found that straight RCA cables sounds better than the twisted RCA cables at least with full range anyway.

Good luck, I used the LC2 with my JL Audio 8" micro sub before I upgraded to the DQ-61. It's a good unit and even better with the control knob. It makes a really strong clean signal but be careful with the accubass setting because it's sensitive. Chances are you probably don't need it as I didn't with mine. If you don't like your sub than you must try a JL Audio sub, I promise you you'll never go back. These subs have enough SPL but they make awesome quality sound. My CX5 has the W3V3 ported and my Mazda 5 has the WXv2 sealed, which for half the price still sounds really good and all I run them with are some very old Alpine 150 & 160 watt RMS amplifiers, one on each.
 
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Thank you V8Toilet. Do you have the Bose system. I thought that with the Bose, there was a digital signal from the HU into the Bose "digital" amplifier...
 
By the way, I normally use JL...I have had stealthboxes and XD700/5 installed my previous vehicles. However, the RF is a sealed box. 10-in with a Rockford punch 300watt amp for $186...I needed to try it..
 
I do not have the Bose system but still the LC2 should accept the signal. It's worth a try anyway.
 
From what I read, you can tap the signals between the headunit and Bose processor/amp. Unfortunately that signal is very weak. Also the diagrams do not label the wires in the harness, so you would have to discover the signal wires yourself.

Apparently the Bose processor isn't entirely digital and still uses analog signals for the speakers. It does heavily EQ the signals to the speakers, so the output signal from the Bose amp isn't the best source to begin with... Give it up to Bose for processing and EQing everything, making things more complicated.
 
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So I ended up going to a sound shop for the install. I was not able to see the install but discussed the use of the LC2i after the Bose feeding from the rear speakers.

I have to say that the sound is pretty good. The Rockford P300-10 delivers plenty for the price. It is a little harsher, with the front speakers, but I fade to the back 1-2 slots and works good. Total investment was $335 in equipment ($186 for Rockford Fosgate P300-10) and $200 labor.
 
So you are noticing the highs are harsh after install as well? What was discussed about the LC2i?

I fade to the rear as well. Unfortunately, the high's harshness is still apparent. That is the biggest concern, but I forgot to mention that there is a loss in mid range. That adds to the thin sound character that is overall much worse than factory w.o. sub. I was really hoping the LC2i would fix the problem...
 
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Some...but difficult to say for sure...nothing that bothers me too much.. I have not finalized my settings, but I find the sub a little muddy or maybe it is out of alignment with the front stock woofer ..this bothers me more.....but it may be in the settings.
 
Some...but difficult to say for sure...nothing that bothers me too much.. I have not finalized my settings, but I find the sub a little muddy or maybe it is out of alignment with the front stock woofer ..this bothers me more.....but it may be in the settings.

Try and hook up an MP3 player or iPhone directly to the input of the LC2 but make sure you start with the volume all the way down. Compare the sound with the same sound played through the Phone vs the Bose unit. The signal coming directly from the iPhone (headphone to RCA adapter) will give you a pretty good indication on how your woofer should sound. If it still sucks return it and get the CP108LG-W3v3 microsub. You will not be disappointed.

The LC2 does not clean up the factory signal like a DSP can. The accubass circuitry only restores bass roll off that some systems have. The LC2 only puts out the same signal but at higher voltages for an amplifier to use.

I'm also assuming the installer set the gains correctly with a spectrum analyzer or at least a DVM and test tone.
 
I hear more of the harshness when using CDs; it seems to be less when using iPod. I know it doesn't make much sense but most of my iPod music is at 256kbps or 320kbps.
 
The harshness is only at certain range of frequency where the highs can be extended and very bright. I noticed that it is more pronounced when listening via Bluetooth instead of direct AUX input, which may be related to quality loss with BT.
 
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