iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread

[Ice88]

Update:

I found that the microtech starts to do really weird s*** when the voltage gets close to 12V. And when under (even including drops under cranking) it wont work at all. When I have the charger on the battery the microtech acts fine. So no problems I can tell with the Microtech (I get gas, spark, no error lights)

Orion you helped me pick out the new spot for the second water temp sensor. So yeah I have a 93 small block chevy water temp sensor running the microtech. However I might trade them and have the microtech run off of the stock and have the stock ecu use the chevy one. I will do this to try to get the temp readings closer to what they really are. And yes I have tried a couple of different wt sensors to make sure they are not bad.

I fortunately have the same car as a daily driver. So did a test. I unplugged the three sensors that I cut out from the race car, and started it at 10*F...... no problems at all. It started right up like always.

I have also put in NSN's tune on slot three and tried that to no avail. However I will be at a car show in February. I am hoping that they keep the building warm. If so and it starts then I know what to do. If it does not start I might have to start all over with a new ecu system. But months from now when its not cold as **** out. Speaking of which.... why arent you ausi guys not posting up????

A small motorcycle battery.

Based on this it sounds like your battery might be insufficient for the task.

I know Install had a similiar issue with cold cranking with his old engine. Cept his was worse from what I can gather. His was due to the weight of the rotating assembly. I think yours stems from the energy require to turn over a cold engine and fire.

 

[iracemine]

old manifold is back on. made sure before I put it back on that the injectors we firing. They where, but not one at a time.... two at a time. If that is right then this motor squirts and sparks in a wast style. I did check for spark with the #1 spark pug, but today I will pull both coils out and check all 4 to see what I get.

If I get good spark and I know I am getting good fuel spray I am at a loss. The yellow light on the microtech is flashing during cranking (not fast but maybe just with the revolution of the crank). And now the air, and water temp on the microtech match the water temp gauge on the dash. I also have a charger set to "engine start" and it cranks just as fast as my daily driver.

I would be lead to believe its the tune. Since I do not have anyone out here that would know how to work with the microtech I think its time to either put it back to the stock ecu and sell the car as a "runner" or part it out. I am wondering how much you guys think I would make either way????

 

[iracemine]

plenty of spark. pulled the plugs and all 4 are going crazy. put plugs from my working daily driver and still nothing. New full size battery and nothing.

I will have to buy a compression tester to see if everything inside the motor is ok. I just think if I replace the ecu with another it will do the same thing.

know anyone that wants one of these?

 

[AusOrion]

I know the instructions to the MT often say to wire in a relay switch to the fuel pump. Did you do this? And can you hear that relay turn on and/or hear the fuel pump running?

I haven't gone through the whole thread so just throwing ideas out there.

 

[iracemine]

Yes fuel is no problem. I sometimes even evac old fuel by turning on and off ignition and popping off the return line into a bucket. I still cant believe that this thing fires the injectors in a two by two pattern. Should have taken a video of that.

 

[iracemine]

Engine is blown.

 

[Circuit]

 

[Lewis7789]

+1

 

[rally2003]

Rebuild?

 

[Perro del Sol]

Damn! Been there , done that, got the box lunch and the t shirt!

 

[iracemine]

12/11/12

OK engine dropped off at a top fuel shop (no joke). http://aesracing.net/ Next week I will have a valve job along with new valve seals at the same shop. Picked up the ze ecu, harness, trigger, an the 4-2-1 header from repthemazdas also. Should have that in a few weeks too.

Guess I should reconsider my HP goal (boom07)

4/9/13

4 months. Time to repo the motor. I have been getting nothing but "two weeks" for a answerer from this guy for over two months. Found a shop one town over from my house and he said "two to three days".

Just a bit pissed off right now. Will continue to update with anything worth reading.

I was actually like 5 months. When I told them I was coming to repo my motor they had it done in a day. They never asked any questions about specs or anything. So in a way I am happy its not my fault but in a way its my fault for not checking their work.

So this time I brought it to a local shop and so far this guy asks me more questions then I ask of him. But after finding the specs for piston to wall clearance for the guy he told me it was at .015. The stock specs stated that it should be .016-.02. I also have the pistons coated so the old shop should have added room for that, and the fact that I only race this motor so more room should have been added for that as well. They did not. Piston rings and the pistons got hot and squeezed and tore up the walls. Also the cold start to no start were due to the rings being smashed inside the ring lands and not springing back out and keeping compression. That also killed the combustion when it was running (racing) and unburned fuel started to stack up and "washed" down the cylinder walls and pistons.

Good news is I found the problem, bad news is its expensive. I am glad its not the wiring, or anything I did like the piston rings or motor build up (unless you count checking wall clearance after you just paid a shop to do it for you). But the new shop says he will not press in pins into new oem pistons. He is making me get aftermarket pistons that are "floaters", and he will make the oem rods work with them. Fine. However no one makes a high compression 83.5 piston. Its all 8.5-1 for turbo applications. So I will have to get custom made pistons, not that big of a deal except that lead time is 3-4 weeks. This season is looking worse than last years.

btw..... I pretty sure these heads come with a 3 angle on the valves stock. Stay far far away from AES in Schaumburg IL. I wear the t-shirts they have given me and all I hear is horror story's of shady greasy s*** they have done to other people. I think all they are is a shop that lives off of glory story's from a decade or two ago. And now they are a cluster f of idiots.

 

[rally2003]

That sucks! Hopefully you'll have her back running before to long.

 

[iracemine]

needs more pics.

and the truck gets some lovin while I am waiting on the car too.

 

[iracemine]

Got too fat over the winter to get into the seat. Soo I welded on one of these things on.

Also like I stated before the aes shop bored the motor to .0015. The stock daily driver should be .0016-.002. Weiseco states .003 piston to wall clearance. Man just one little simple thing I should have researched more, and I would be running around like a champ the first time. I think the new engine shop guy might even throw one more thousandths on it too. Mazda states that the maximum wall clearance is .006.

 

[iracemine]

old oversized ze pistons.

 

[Ice88]

Whats the new compression?

Dont have time to calcualte rough compression (at work).

 

[iracemine]

Not sure. I asked for stock FS 83.5mm pistons, but for 10.5 to 11 C/R. She said which side to be closer to, and I said closer to 11.

If you know how to get that # please let me know. Looking at how high the middle is it looks like its going to be like 13 or something, but the valve pockets are too huge for that! I am hoping that the motor is no longer "self destruction". But in one day the block is ready. A far far cry from 5 months. So this weekend I shall be re rebuilding the motor, and will see the clearances myself.

If anyone lives buy Chicago and needs any motor work done. Please let me know cause this shop is perfect, meticulous, thorough, and cheep!

 

[Ice88]

hey man,

Sorry. When I get home I'll post up how I did my calculations

Cheers

 

[iracemine]

off to the dyno tomorrow morning. So far it idles nice and smooth, but needs a tune badly!

 

[iracemine]

With the 626 mani the vacuum has even more of that crazy crazy spikes. I just do not think the normal mani will be big enough to handle these cams and largely ported head. I will have to go to ITB's. Wich means I will only do enough racing on the motor this year to keep my license. And then find some one who will make ITB's for the fs motor.