I shortened the stock shifter
So, after reading tons of unclear threads on shortening the stock shifter, I decided to give it a try. I planned on getting a kartboy & bushings in the future anyways, so it wouldn't really matter if I didn't like it.
I'll start w/ a How To:
Tools:
Philips Screwdriver
Blowtorch (Propane is your best bet)
Hacksaw or Dremel with cutting discs
Wide Tape (Gorilla Tape or duct tape)
Strong Epoxy (Any 2 part epoxy should be strong enough)
Pliers or vice-grips
Getting to the Shifter:
With the E-brake on, pull out the surrounding trim around the e-brake handle.
Grab the trim around the shifter (includes cupholders) right where it was touching the e-brake trim and pull it up.
Unscrew the shift knob and pull it off.
Remove the two screws on the front corners of the shift boot holder.
Remove the shift boot. The boot itself is slotted and fits over 8 (2 on each side of the square) plastic tabs.
Removing the Extension
You will now see the aluminum extension piece and the black steel shifter itself. There are two small holes on the extension, they do not have any type of set screws or anything like that, so just ignore those.
You will now need to use a torch to heat up the aluminum extension. After a while, the rubber piece underneath it will begin to smoke. I suggest having a second person try periodically to grab, twist, and pull up and the extension with a pair of pliers. Pulling the extension off requires some effort, so it's best to have one person focusing on the torch and one person trying to pull it off.
Once you get the extension off, set it down outside the car. It, along with the rubber piece still on the shifter, will still be hot.
Shortening the Shifter
Once the rubber has cooled down a bit, you can begin cutting the stock shifter. It is a hollow tube, but it's made of steel and the walls are relatively thick. It can be cut with a hacksaw, but a Dremel makes the job much easier. I cut the shifter about an inch below the bottom of the rubber piece. This will drop the shift knob about 2.5" or so.
I suggest putting a plastice bag around the shifter so that you don't get the metal shavings all over the place.
Where you decide to cut the shifter is up to you. Remember that you will be putting the aluminum extension back on, so that will add some height.
Reattaching the Extension
The extension will slip back over your shifter, but there will be some play because you no longer have the rubber vibration dampener. I wrapped some black Gorilla Tape (very similar to duct tape, but with a stronger adhesive) around the cut shifter, so that the tape was flush with the top. You don't need much to fill the gap between the shifter and the extension.
Try putting the extension back on to see if you need more or less tape. In the end, you want a very snug fit.
Once you get the tape on there, put some strong epoxy on the inside of the extension and slip it back onto the shifter. The epoxy will keep the shifter from rotating.
These steps are important for several reasons. Reattaching the extension allows you to reattach the stock knob back onto the threads, without having to use any set screws or anything like that. The extension is also necessary to hold the top ring of the shift boot in place.
The tape and epoxy are a very secure way of reattaching the extension, and the tape will provide some vibration dampening, just as the original rubber piece did.
Put it all back together
Once you you have the extension back on, reattach the shift boot, install the shift knob and make sure it is oriented correctly before the epoxy dries.
Put the two screws back into place.
Put all of the center console trim back in place.
