New guy here

[LionofZion]

Hey everyone,

New owner of 07' Speed3 GT. Try to keep a long, but interesting story short, I was contemplating taking it back to trade for something my wife can drive too, but I'm keeping it...just keep wanting to drive it. I kinda stumbled across the speed on accident while looking for a sporty but practical family-ish car at local dealerships. I was kind of between feelings after reading that the car made the consumer recommended list for a few years, only to hear horror stories of engines blowing (or dropping) and finding out firsthand that 300lb ft of torque has a funny way of making its way through a light FWD car! Either way, between the looks, seats and overall fun factor, I hope she lasts as well as my hondas did!

 

[spdjnke]

WELCOME to your New home while your home! As for the Engine blowing and motor drop outs well the motor mounts have been redesigned and haven't heard anyone else have that issue and with that there was a very small percentage of people who had that issue....As for the motor well that's a hard one to comment, I don't know if there was ever a confirmed cause of what was the actual cause, but mainly the ones that did they were running COBB tune from what I can tell cuz of KR.

Personnally I would say just enjoy your car and do some basic mods and you'll be fine!!

 

[LionofZion]

thx, I hope to learn a lot while here. I found out after I got the car that the owner had the factory upgrade catback and CAI mazdaspeed intake installed. Im assuming they are good enough that I dont need to replace them. I want very dependable upgrades and prefer to keep a clean "sleeper" look to the car. Does a turbo inlet pipe make that much of a diff? Is a FMIC a necessary upgrade? Will I be needing a tune? Sry but I am new to the turbo world!

 

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

I don't think the FMIC is a necessary upgrade on a daily driven car. Half of what goes into a FMIC is the "look" factor .

As far as a TIP, it does make a difference, not so much as power. They claim to make anywhere from 2-5hp, and that's easily lost when you're making ~280hp+. It's more of a drivability mod. The turbo will spool quicker by ~500rpm, but again, that may or may not be important to you.

The car won't die with the stock TIP, and they're not terribly expensive. But they don't do much and they're a pain to install.

 

[LionofZion]

So an intercooler wouldnt make that much of a difference with heat soak? If a turbo inlet pipe is a pain and doesnt make much of a diff, what would be your next upgrade recommendation? Ive read some interesting threads on suspension and tire types making a big diff on hooking up, but for now, id like to get some educated and experienced feedback on the next reliable mod for hp. Thx for the feedback and im likin the pearl white color on that!

 

[oaklandopen]

you are a perfect candidate for a hypertech max energy tuner...especially if you want to add usable power and do no more work than it takes to put flip-flops on.

in all actuality, because you have a first model year, i would check on your motor mount. the whole "engine dropping" issue you speak of was a problem with the 07's weak motor mount.

after that, unless you want big numbers, the stock equipment is just fine. the biggest single mod gain you can get has already been gotten (aftermarket intake). the hypertech tuner will allow your motor to use the stock turbo the best it can. after that, you're looking at beaucoup bucks and a big build, if you want to do it right

intercooler-wise...the only thing a front mount is good for is 1/4 mile runs, because it won't soak up heat while you wait. other than that, a top mount will soak at a traffic light, but after you start going it quickly cools down.

 

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

I'd get a tune, and I'm going to stop there as far as power goes. I don't want my car to be any louder, so no downpipe for me.

So I have a ms cai, cp-e tip, forge v1 bpv, and I'm done with power for now. I'm concentrating my excess funds into drivability (shifting and mounts), and suspension.

I will eventually get a tune down the road, but it's of no importance to me right now. The car's got plenty of power already.

 

[LionofZion]

Is the hypertech the way to go, from personal experience? It looks really promising but I am seeing a lot of guys commenting on the new AP by Cobb, unichip, and a couple other companies' similar products. It appears that the gains with an intake and exhaust can be quite dramatic, like well over 10%. And does it REALLY improve mpg at the same time???
And Chi, I agree with the power probably being enough after this, and I don't want a crazy loud car either, but would like a little bit slicker shifting and maybe better springs for hooking up more. Any particular experience there, or know the best route/brand to go with when it comes to springs, control arms, etc?

 

[LionofZion]

btw, oakland, I am huge on doing lots of consumer feedback on vehicles, recall issues, etc, so the week I heard about the engine mount issues, I called a mazda shop, he ran the vin and gave me the dates on which the mount was replaced. On another note, does anyone know the power increase of the MazdaSpeed CAI and CBE? I looked into all kinds of intakes, etc and then found out the original owner had those upgrades done. Is the performance increase competitive enough that it's a waste looking into others? Would a corksport race pipe (eliminating second cat) make a huge difference, and would it still fit easily, as it would to the stock assembly? I apologize for the load of questions, but I'm wanting to learn what I can asap

 

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

Believe it or not, the CAI gives you a good ~20-25hp, as confirmed by Car and Driver or Motortrend. Whereas a CBE will give you next to nothing. I think I'm getting 1-2mpg more, so that bumps me up to 20-21mpg city, which is still crap. Is it worth getting a different CAI? No, because a pipe is a pipe is a pipe. Pretty much all CAI out there will give you a similar gains. The Mazdaspeed is the best one for me because it's warranted, CARB legal (I live in California), and the most visible mod in my engine bay won't void my warranty.

There are two short throw shifters out there
1) TWM Short Throw Shifter
2) COBB Short Throw Shifter (discontinued I believe)

There are also solid bushings you can get to improve shifting feel
1) TWM
2) J Barone Racing (I'm getting this one)

I'm also getting the following from J Barone Racing:
1) Short Shift Plate
2) Shifter Weight
3) Heavy Shift Knob (for cosmetic purposes but I think I'll like a heavier knob too)

As for suspension, it depends on what you want out of your car. Do you want to just drop it, leave it alone, save some money, and enjoy it? Or do you want adjustability on the fly (height/compression/rebound)

Shocks/springs will probably be cheaper, but I don't think this option will give you height adjustability.
Koni's make good shocks and many people love them, and you can match them up with either H&R springs or Eibach's. This is about as much as I know about shocks and springs. I think the Koni Yellows are adjustable shocks. You can also get Bilstein shocks, but you'll have to go through Europe. I haven't looked into shocks/springs combo because I want height adjustability on the fly.

Coilovers will be more expensive, but I think even the most basic coilovers will give you height adjustability, and some level of damping adjustability. Do note though, some of these options will require you to remove the wheels to get to. I'll just list a few of the more popular ones for this car, each have +/- I believe.

BC Coilovers - very popular, probably due to cost and from what I've seen, people go REALLY low, or at least they can if they want to. Compression/Rebound adjustable, not individually though. So if you mess with one you mess with the other too. $
H&R Coilovers - Also popular. From what I know these are only height adjustable, but they do rock Bilstein shocks . $$
ST Coilovers - New, manufactured by KW, same as the v1, minus their INOX coating. $
KW Coilovers - v1, height adjustable. $.5
v2, height + rebound adjustable. $$
v3, height + rebound + compression. $$$
Mazdaspeed Coilovers - Manufactured by KW, same as the v3. $$$

I don't know much about tuning. But I do know this, custom tune is better than a pre-loaded map.

 

[LionofZion]

Thx Chi, I'll look into what youve given me so far. I will agree that shifting could be smoother. I'm slightly disappointed that the CBE doesnt do much :-/ esp for the cost. Would a corksport racepipe fit in easily? I know with the "non upgrade" exhaust its supposed to be an easy fit, eliminates the second cat. And what does a tune cost? Is it better than having the hyperchip flexibility of going right back to stock, etc? With just a CAI, CBE, how much more will you get from a tune?
As far as suspension goes, I wouldnt want to really drop the car. I have too many questionable roads out here and that front end already concerns me exiting some lots and driveways. Idk how much a good suspension setup would cost, but if the cost is close, do you think a better and reasonably priced differential, like from Mfactory (quaife design), would be every bit as effective at putting the power down?

 

[oaklandopen]

With a fwd, putting power down is the main problem. The trans isn't the problem, the power isn't the problem, its the fact that the wrong wheels are driving the car

Wheel hop can be helped by stiffening up the motor and tranny in the engine bay, and getting other suspension components. Other than that just realize that this will always be a fwd car. Anything else and you are spending lots of money to do it (ie custom awd)

If you go with a quick reflash like hypertech or cobb ap maps you will increase power, but if you want to maximize every little detail like additional bolt-ons you will want a professional tuner. And you can't tune with the hypertech. Everyone pretty much tunes with the cobb ap

Once you decide to go all out and change up your turbo you will definitely need to tune. But with keeping the stock turbo, you can add pretty much anything else to the engine and the hypertech will keep increasing power in a safe check

Essentially, the hypertech will tweak the ecu around the limits of the stock turbo.

I like to think the difference between stock, hypertech, and ots mapping like cobb has is like a desk lamp. Say your desk lamp is rated for up to a 60watt bulb. The stock ms3 would be like you were putting a 55w incandesent bulb in(overly safe).

The hypertech would be like you were putting in a 60w cfl(a little better, but still within safe limits, and very useable power).

The cobb maps would be like putting in a 65w incandesent (overpowered and out of safe spec...won't have problems initially but also may not last as long)

The cobb with a pro tune would be like upgrading the lamp socket to 65watt, and using a 65w cfl bulb (very safe, and a very good gain in power)

And using cobb to tune it yourself without really know what you're doing would be like throwing a 100w bulb in the original lamp (very big change in performance but won't last long)

That's about the best comparison I can think of

 

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

And that is why I'm not tuning anything unless I know what I'm doing

Why would you be disappointed with the CBE? Wouldn't you be glad that Mazda knew what they were doing and gave you the most efficient cat-back?

If you don't want the drop the car, you can leave it alone , the stock setup is plenty good already. Or you can get the Koni's FSD, they are supposedly designed for people who don't want to match them with lowering springs.

 

[LionofZion]

Would I need the Cobb as well on top of the pro-tune?? Any word on the cost of a pro tune and the average increases? So would you say that would provide a better increase than one of the much larger TMICs that are an easy bolt on?
And I know the suspension from the factory is pretty decent to allow a .88 on a skid, so do you think a better differential would make more sense for handling and power transfer? The Mfactory model looks just like the Quaife (which has significantly gone up in price) and is about $600. Its probably a matter of opinion between the benefits and dislikes towards gear actuated diff and cluth. Corksport even sells the Quaife gear driven model and its whats in the new Focus Rally Sport, along with the Revoknuckle suspension. I know one of the pros is its supposed to be almost maintenance free.

 

[oaklandopen]

A tune in any car can give you the best increases, especially in a force foed engine

A good shop will tune with dyno pulls. The cobb is going to allow them to change parameters, as well as monitor components

The hypertech doesn't monitor, doesn't record, doesn't load any other map than what it comes with or the oem settings its saves before overwriting

 

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

Are you sure you want to invest in a new diff? Sure it's great but I can tell you that half of the time, I can't even tell if it's working or not, because I don't hardly drive to limits of the car. Unless you spend every weekend on the track, I just can't see why you need to go beyond coilovers and basic chassis stiffening.

Hell, I even think coilovers are overkill for me. I'm getting them for looks, and ride adjustability.

 

[LionofZion]

I hear ya, just thought that, depending on how much I could spend on suspension upgrades to improve traction, etc, it might be even more practical to go with a diff. What do you suggest coilovers and control arms? Whats the cost range for both? And if you have the quaife, dont you notice a big reduction in wheel hop and power loss under hard pulls?
And even though I posted something over in the induction forum, I havent heard any experience or solid feedback regarding the 2 or 3 aftermarket TMIC's. No cutting/chopping of the bumper, much more surface area, and way cheaper than FMIC.

 

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

Before you think about getting a new diff to help with traction/wheel hop. Go and get an aftermarket Rear Engine Mount. After the RMM, you may not look at a diff ever again

As for coilovers, again it depends on your needs. I want adjustment up the ass, because not only do I want to adjust how low I want to go (summer will be lower, winter will be higher for the snowboarding seasons). I also want to adjust how the car rides.

With that being said, I'm looking into KW v2, or KW v3/Mazdaspeed Coilovers.

 

[LionofZion]

It does look like theres a lot of hoopla surrounding the different mounts, and it sounds like its worth the smaller investment. Some people talk up the urethane based design, others knock it, some are really sturdy looking and slightly more expensive, like the one at *************** (http://www.***************/ReviewsList.asp?ProductCode=SUM3AMM&SortBy=Newest&Page=3&Reviews=Y) but it seems to have a lot of solid reviews. I would say that hooking up really hard is fine with me, although some guys dont seem to like how rigid some of the mounts are. It even appears that the clunky driveline lash is almost eliminated.