No problem. Good luck.
Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread
- Thread starter Lewis7789
- Start date
- Status
No problem. Good luck.
- :
- aggressive auto culture
With those thermal spacers do you have to run 2 gaskets to sandwich it between the manifolds?
well it wasn't lumpy, just sometimes it would be around 1200rpms, other 500rpm, then 800rpm, then back to 1200rpm. You notice it more in traffic having to stop and go. And it doesn't do much top bypass it. When i get done driving my car and pop the hood my IM is still cool to the touch, so its not heating the air much and with your thermal spacers those will help a lot more.
After looking at your setup I was thinking about doing this to mine. Just curious, what is the purpose of coolant running through a throttle body when it is hot and the air flowing from a intercooler is cold?
CR3 Motorsports
Member
To make sure the throttlebody doesnt freeze up from all the cold air from the IC.
Yep... keep it from freezing in cold weather, because it can and has happened in the past, and not just on turbo cars either. Not only that but atomized fuel mixes better with warmer air. This was a lot more important on carb'd cars than FI cars, but still important.
Its due to the design of the IAC valve, its a "wax" ball that heats up from coolant temp and closes the passage for the air lowering the idle once it is up to temp. It does seem to be a KL thing, i had the bypass done on my ZM and FP and no issues. I just know that myself and many MX6/PGT guys have done it and its hell trying to get it to idle right, as soon as i hooked it back up as needed its worked great.
I think the question is: what would there be to gain from it not being hooked up? maybe I missed that post somehwere
but with the air rushing by at WOT is it really going to make a difference?
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
^^its not so much that it heat soaks incoming air rushing by at WOT...its just that its yet another variable to consider with intake charge, particularly with partial throttle...
at partial throttle stuff isn't moving enough to be uniform in temp...so you get hot spots throughout the entire intake system...This mostly applies to a condition like a few seconds of closed throttle deceleration (air is barely moving), to opening the throttle back up...so when you mash the throttle and get everything moving again, pockets of air are at different temps...some of which radically different than the IAT sensor is seeing...and it can cause a little hesitation, missing, etc...but only for that brief period until everything is flying through the intake and it no longer really matters...these matters can be easily 'tuned out' with the right computer, but some stock computer's struggle with it...
so the idea of a by-pass is to remove one of the several areas that create these heat differentials...and its kind of an unproven mod in any real sense...it might slightly aid throttle response, at the cost of some idle problems on particular cars...in principle its similar to what thermal spacers attempt to do...keeping the intake system somewhat insulated from heat soak...
on the other hand...yeah...a turbo will be by far the biggest heat generator and it takes a pretty efficient intercooler to get that back in check...post-intercooler air is still fundamentally different than on an NA engine...as its pressurized...which in itself makes it hotter, as well as denser...but a denser air charge 'self insulates' more effectively anyway, as it has more mass per given volume...so all this is kind of moot, imo at least...on a turbo charged engine, the air is already hot...a 'hot' TB isn't going to realistically change that high mass air charge in any measureable way...
its debatable in either direction...but i've never found enough evidence of it being necessary in anything other than a purpose built race engine that will never be idled for more than a minute or so...or driven in colder ambient temps, for that matter...
at partial throttle stuff isn't moving enough to be uniform in temp...so you get hot spots throughout the entire intake system...This mostly applies to a condition like a few seconds of closed throttle deceleration (air is barely moving), to opening the throttle back up...so when you mash the throttle and get everything moving again, pockets of air are at different temps...some of which radically different than the IAT sensor is seeing...and it can cause a little hesitation, missing, etc...but only for that brief period until everything is flying through the intake and it no longer really matters...these matters can be easily 'tuned out' with the right computer, but some stock computer's struggle with it...
so the idea of a by-pass is to remove one of the several areas that create these heat differentials...and its kind of an unproven mod in any real sense...it might slightly aid throttle response, at the cost of some idle problems on particular cars...in principle its similar to what thermal spacers attempt to do...keeping the intake system somewhat insulated from heat soak...
on the other hand...yeah...a turbo will be by far the biggest heat generator and it takes a pretty efficient intercooler to get that back in check...post-intercooler air is still fundamentally different than on an NA engine...as its pressurized...which in itself makes it hotter, as well as denser...but a denser air charge 'self insulates' more effectively anyway, as it has more mass per given volume...so all this is kind of moot, imo at least...on a turbo charged engine, the air is already hot...a 'hot' TB isn't going to realistically change that high mass air charge in any measureable way...
its debatable in either direction...but i've never found enough evidence of it being necessary in anything other than a purpose built race engine that will never be idled for more than a minute or so...or driven in colder ambient temps, for that matter...
Last edited:
^Good info guys. My biggest problem is the EGR pipe that is hooked somehow finds itself up against both coolant hoses and like to melt a hole every once and a while. It like to melt the wire harness too with the way the wires feed under the intake manifold. I guess I can try it out and see what happens and if I don't like it I'll put the hose back on. Thanks guys. Sorry to clutter up your thread Evan 
Get back to work!
Get back to work!Decided to stay home from the Youngstown Mazda meet and try to hustle on the P5 and get it done before the track day at Mid-Ohio June 10th.
Got the GT Spec tie bar in. Must say, this is a lousy piece. It ties the control arms together but bottoms out on the engine support bracket. Good thing I got it used and didn't pay much.
I have to run to AutoZone to get new hardware for my headers so I can bolt up the exhaust then I can mount the KMR tie bar.
CorkSport bronzeoil bushings in the trans.
And short shifter. Which is a modified P5/Probe GT shifter assembly and bubble gum welded by my friend who wants to remain anonymous. haha (we didn't know his welder would work like s*** with a 50' extension cord. It's still a strong weld though)
A pic of the MSP front sway and CorkSport shifter bushing.
I got the intermediate shaft and both axles in today too. This JDM 3 bolt intermediate shaft is like gold. No machining or welding necessary, it just bolts right up to JDM KL's.
I was trying to figure out a solution to the JDM knock sensor plug since the two USDM plugs I have don't fit. Wouldn't ya know, Evan of the past labelled it and it was hiding in a box I found in the garage today. Whew! Knock sensors are a b**** to replace on the KL.
Got the front suspensions buttoned up and axles in. Need to pick up a 32mm socket for the axle nuts.
The engine bay mess. My fuse block bracket is drying but it will get buttoned up tomorrow. I've got the starter and distribution block mounted and ready and the clutch line hooked back up to the trans. Tomorrow will be more wiring.
While I was taking little breaks I Plastidipped the emblems on the MS6.
I've got H&R springs, Tokico blues, Hawk HPS pads and Techa-fit lines, Whiteline rear sway bar (All from CR3, of course)and a replacement rear diff bracket with Turbine Tech bushings in for the MS6 one of these weekends...
More work tomorrow! I'm off to mow the lawn then hiking with le girlfriend.
Got the GT Spec tie bar in. Must say, this is a lousy piece. It ties the control arms together but bottoms out on the engine support bracket. Good thing I got it used and didn't pay much.
I have to run to AutoZone to get new hardware for my headers so I can bolt up the exhaust then I can mount the KMR tie bar.
CorkSport bronzeoil bushings in the trans.
And short shifter. Which is a modified P5/Probe GT shifter assembly and bubble gum welded by my friend who wants to remain anonymous. haha (we didn't know his welder would work like s*** with a 50' extension cord. It's still a strong weld though)
A pic of the MSP front sway and CorkSport shifter bushing.
I got the intermediate shaft and both axles in today too. This JDM 3 bolt intermediate shaft is like gold. No machining or welding necessary, it just bolts right up to JDM KL's.
I was trying to figure out a solution to the JDM knock sensor plug since the two USDM plugs I have don't fit. Wouldn't ya know, Evan of the past labelled it and it was hiding in a box I found in the garage today. Whew! Knock sensors are a b**** to replace on the KL.
Got the front suspensions buttoned up and axles in. Need to pick up a 32mm socket for the axle nuts.
The engine bay mess. My fuse block bracket is drying but it will get buttoned up tomorrow. I've got the starter and distribution block mounted and ready and the clutch line hooked back up to the trans. Tomorrow will be more wiring.
While I was taking little breaks I Plastidipped the emblems on the MS6.
I've got H&R springs, Tokico blues, Hawk HPS pads and Techa-fit lines, Whiteline rear sway bar (All from CR3, of course)and a replacement rear diff bracket with Turbine Tech bushings in for the MS6 one of these weekends...
More work tomorrow! I'm off to mow the lawn then hiking with le girlfriend.
- Status
