• Welcome to Mazdas247. Membership is free and offers many benefits, please Click Here to learn more, thanks!
  • Mazdas247 is an Amazon Associate and earns from qualifying purchases.

Clunk/pop in drivers front wheel

Hi all: 105k on my 2013 Cx-5. Hearing a clunk or pop when going over dips in the road or when the drivers front has to flex when pulling into driveways and what not. I replaced both front end links as well as complete quick struts (strut, coil, mount etc). Anything else it could be?
 

rsvinylgraphics

2008.5 MGM MS3
Contributor
:
2008.5 MS3
ball joint maybe? with the wheel off the ground grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to move it back and forth if it moves and clunks thats probably the problem.
 
:
2019 CX-5 Grand Touring Reserve
I had a similar thing in my 2019. Although I am not sure if it is exactly the same, then I went over bumps (intermittantly) there was a clunk noise.

I took it in and there were some loose bolts on the cross bar in the engine (closer to the windshield).

Maybe give everything a quick knock to make sure you dont have anything loose?

S
 
I have a similar problem
2014 Cx-5 AWD
DId you ever figure it out????
I have already changed the strut,strut mount and bearing and sway bar link. Noise still persists
 
Yes.... they seem good. That’s why I’m shakin my head on this. As I research a little more on this foru, I gotta check the lower motor mount by the lower control arms. I feel like the noise is emanating from that area. Anybody else have this mount go bad in a 14 Cx-5???
 
:
2014 mazda cx-5 touring FWD
On a previous car I had a popping sound over small bumps.The car was about 6 years old at the time.It was the permanently lubed sealed ball joints in the lower control arms.There was no play in the ball joints but the grease must have dried up or something.The problem disappeared and actually steered easier when I injected grease thru the boot with a grease needle.
I tried this after having good results fixing a steering problem ("memory steer" - where steering won't return to natural center and requires constant correction) by injecting grease thru the boot into the tie rod ends.There was no play in the tie rod ends either.Grease or lousy grease dried up and caused the steering to bind slightly.Again a sealed ball and socket "permanently lubed for life" component.Thank you General Motors and your lousy parts.
I tried the injecting grease approach after noticing that after jacking the car up and letting it down again ,that it steered easier (yes this was noticeable even with power steering) and the centering problem corrected itself for a day or two.I theorized that the movement of the suspension from jacking up/down redistributed some grease in the joints.
I replaced the tie rod ends with MOOG greasable type and fixed that problem.The ball joints only required an initial "fill" with the grease needle and were good until I had the lower control arms (with ball joints already installed) replaced about 5 years later.I sealed the ball joint boot needle hole with Permatex black ADHESIVE sealant,not just plain sealant.Side note, this stuff is great for attaching exterior trim on a car and sealing around windows and leaks.It's tougher/stronger than normal silicone gasket sealant.Don't be afraid to poke around if it's just a noise and not a safety issue . Good luck
 
Thanks for the reply... I do have a new lower control arm with new ball joint(greasable) in my possession and I’m afraid that if I have it installed, it won’t fix the problem. I checked the ball joint and it seems good WHEN jacked up. I have no way to test when on ground. I CANT STAND THE NOISE so I guess I gotta keep throwing parts at it!!!! Next up... tie rod end!
 
:
92 MX-3; 18 CX-5
FWIW - stop throwing parts at the problem. Clunks are usually metal bouncing on metal - suspects are bushings and demonstrably loose ball joints. Test and continue to drive until you can pinpoint the problem. Super frustrating and irritating? Yes. But not a safety concern. Definitely not worth replacing the suspension parts piece by piece - likely with lesser quality aftermarket parts. I'd even prefer to pay for a professional diagnostic to pinpoint the root cause instead of continuing to replace parts.
Test tie rod end for looseness by hand with the car on jack stands. Also consider that a tie rod end is going to make more noise when loaded in a turn. So is the noise worse when the suspect side is on the outside of a turn?
Test inner tie rod with car on jack stands - pull from center to check for looseness. When driving is there play in the wheel turning side to side?
Engine mounts can be hard to see and they are typically bushings that when worn out may not be noticeable. But you can test with an assistant. Start with the car on the ground and have the assistant put the car in gear, brakes engaged and rev the engine. You inspect for excessive movement. You might also do the same test on jack stands. Just be careful.
Lower front control arms? I think the bushings would need to be really loose to cause noise and the ball joint visibly loose when tested with a pry bar between the knuckle and lower control arm - the car on jack stands.
I know the complaint is for front end noise, but at least inspect the rear too. The rear upper control arm bushings could be a source of noise if even a little loose / worn. And, it may not be visible.
 
:
2014 mazda cx-5 touring FWD
Are you sure it's even in the suspension/steering? Noises travel and can be hard to pinpoint as to location.Have you checked the engine compartment for anything that might be loose.I'd be grabbing and shaking everything up front and underneath from the plastic covers underneath to the exhaust downpipe.Has this car been in an accident requiring more than minor repairs?Not being there to listen to it,the internet can only offer suggestions.
Take it to a reputable repair shop and let the mechanic drive it.These guys do fix things for a living and have experience locating noise sources.You've been expensively shooting in the dark.
 

tibimakai

San Dimas CA
:
USA
:
2014 CX-5 Touring
Get a pry bar(or big screwdriver) and start moving things around, if you see to much movement, you found your issue.
All my ball joints(at 63k, in LA-read hot weather)) lost their grease and the boots are all cracked open, some all around. Though I don't hear or feel anything weird yet. I'm also lowered on CS springs.
Somebody mentioned above that you grab the top and bottom of the wheel lifted and by trying to move it in and out, you can feel for worn ball joints. I knew that is the way of checking the bearings. If you grab the wheel left and right and moving in and out, is for ball joints.
 
Ok so I took it to a reputable mechanic and had it looked over. He checked everything.... and still CANT FIND the source of the noise! Omg I’m starting to lose it! I swear it comin from ball joint in lower control arm but on lift it’s got zero play. Now the mechanics theory is the hydraulic motor mount. BUT I DONT SEE IT... I don’t think that is the source. He tells me that’s it but I stood right there when he put the car in drive and held brake and I did not hear the noise. I have owned this vehicle now for two months and I love it and HATE IT at the same time. I have had three mechanics look at it. Spent about 400 in parts and labor and the noise still persists. I’m not happy with this car. It’s the fourth Mazda I have owned and they ALL HAVE HAD SUSPENSION ISSUES. I HATE A CAR WITH CLUNKS!!!! Ugh.... this might be my last Mazda.....
 

mazdadude

ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM
:
'16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
I would start with the sway bar bushings. They are a wear item, and will cause horrible clunk. Cheapest place to start...
 

mazdadude

ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM
:
'16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
They checked them and they SEEM ok.... how do I respectfully tell the mechanic that it is NOT the motor mount????
They can't really be checked on a lift.
I have watched others here go through all the parts replacement chasing the problem since they have been using this setup since 2005.
 
:
92 MX-3; 18 CX-5
FWIW I like the shops suggestion for a bad hydraulic motor mount. These do fail and can definitely create clunks. And, it is crazy hard to visually inspect motor mounts for damage. Even when removed sometimes they look pretty good and still have enough play to cause some clunks under load and specific situations.
 
I ordered the sway bar bushings... I’m gonna try that but I’m 89% sure it’s not the motor mount. I had a motor mount fail in a 2007 Mazda 3 that I owned and the sound is completely different. This sound happens on up and down movement of suspension. A failed motor mount makes noise on a cold start because that is when engine makes the most vibration.
I do appreciate your suggestions....
 

Weekly Poll: Interested in the MX-30?

  • Yes

    Votes: 9 33.3%
  • No

    Votes: 6 22.2%
  • I want an Electric CX-3, 30, 5, 8 or 9

    Votes: 12 44.4%
  • I want an Electric Mazda2, 3, 6 or Miata

    Votes: 1 3.7%
Top