What have you done to your MSP today?

livelyjay said:
My problem is more with getting the exhaust manifold out of the way enough to have room. This time I just removed nuts from the studs, disconnected the EGR tube, and just slid it down. Is there a way to fully remove the manifold and turbo as one unit so I have room to work? It's mostly the oil and coolant lines that have me stumped.
Click to expand...

Can't believe you have never removed the turbo! Yeah pretty much what 03.5 said except for draining the oil, that is unnecessary. The oil feed has an 11mm fitting on the turbo that requires a good short open end wrench, and the coolant lines just pull out from the rubber hoses. If you can remove the EGR and the manifold hardware it is not much more work to unbolt the S pipe, the bracket for the turbo, the intake and hot pipe, and the coolant and oil lines.
 
Oh gosh don't try to remove spipe on the car x_x that was annoying enough on the bench with acessibility and a hammer lol.

I might have used a small adjustable wrench on the turbo oil feed and a light tap from a hammer to get it started Its not on very tight. The egr however can be a dirty wh0re.
 
The EGR nut is fused to the threaded pipe section, so when I back it out it pulls the threaded section out of the manifold. I wouldn't remove the S-Pipe from the turbo and would just be disconnecting the S and J bolts, which have already been loosened up. I do have offset 12 point wrenched and I could cut a slot in the 11mm to slide over the oil feed tube. Maybe that would help. I'll tough it out through the winter and take care of this when I change out the timing belt and water pump next spring when I have everything drained and tore apart.
 
Easiest thing assuming you get the egr and oil feed off is as you said to unbolt s pipe from jpipe then just pull manifold with turbo and s pipe attached.
I didn't have difficulties on this but the car only had 130km. My 315km manifold on the other hand....lots of hammering and swearing.
 
Mine slid out of the way fine, but it's still not enough room to do any real work on the exhaust side of the head. It helps that I did all of this 30k miles ago so the bolts didn't have time to seize up. The skid plate helps a lot at keeping salt out of the engine bay.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Can't believe you have never removed the turbo! Yeah pretty much what 03.5 said except for draining the oil, that is unnecessary. The oil feed has an 11mm fitting on the turbo that requires a good short open end wrench, and the coolant lines just pull out from the rubber hoses. If you can remove the EGR and the manifold hardware it is not much more work to unbolt the S pipe, the bracket for the turbo, the intake and hot pipe, and the coolant and oil lines.
Click to expand...

My bad.. I tried to be as accurate as possible.. I drained mine.. didn't realize you didn't need to. I assumed you did.
 
Just pulled my MBC so I can drive WOT again.. waiting on Friday $$ for a JDM flywheel so I can do this clutch...
 
I ordered my JDM flywheel so this clutch job is happening soon. Waiting on thermal spacers so I can do all the intake work at the same time.. doing a VTCS delete, and changing the rear motor mount while the intake is off..
 
Put another A/C compressor on my speed. The originals clutch froze up. Sucky when unboxing the used compressor I found the top rear mounting hole on the housing was broken off during shipping.. I had already recovered the freon and had my old compressor off so I just continued with the install. Placed the broken mount portion back on the compressor and rocked on. Pulled a vacuum and charged it.. less then 2lbs was recovered.. my machine at work may be a little off but is that correct? I put back in what I took out. Ran the car AC was nice and cool. GREAT to have p/s back! Before I got home the car was blowing not air out and the clutch wasn't engaging :/
 
Went to a meet and chilled with a P5 and a nicely done Miata. IDK why, but I really like this pic



This one is good too

 
Last edited:
300796c5133236e232652a8de9598803.jpg

Just bought this

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk
 
Just installed a Ralco RZ Short Shifter. Install went fine, but the threaded end for the shift not does seem long enough to catch on the stock msp shift knob threads. is there some type of adapter I can get (without making the shifter super long) to allow the rod to catch the threads on the stock msp shift knob?
 
Nice pref. Its more useful if I'm honest. I think I like mine more than my msp as I haven't touched the msp in months..
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

duffbuster243
Guide Run your Mazdaspeed Protege on a Speeduino
Replies
6
Views
1K
jadycr
jadycr
Antoine
    • Like
  • Sticky
What have you done to your CX-90 today?
2
Replies
28
Views
8K
AceNinja
A
D
    • Like
OG msprotege forum member checking in...
2
Replies
27
Views
6K
Protephile
P

Latest posts

Back