What have you done to your MSP today?

Fill your new oem with silicon. It isn't the same but better than stock. if you want that solid and smooth inout feel you would really need solid. And upgraded shifter bushings too.

Of course I don't have a twm to speak for buy the mounts and bushings made msp shifter pretty nice.
I have to find it in the p5 no matter what I put in there heh.

215km trans vs 130km though.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
That sucks man, there is no money in selling these cars any time soon. I'm gonna keep my collection as long as I can.
I do know a local buddy that is looking for a forged motor if you still have it, he has been talking to fattimotorworks to get that one from his spicy

And speaking of the collection, the Spicy that I really wanted that was at a local used car lot that sold is back at the lot again. The guy that bought it had a miata as well but I guess he wasn't satisfied with the car. I want to find out what is up with it.
Click to expand...

I still have the engine and built head. Talk to your friend and see if he is interested. I have a local buyer interested so I'll have to ask him first if he still wants it. I'm honestly tempted to keep the msp but I really can't afford to fund 2 projects.
 
I FINALLY got to test this car against something really close in power..

I've been wanting to race a 200hp VTEC for a while, but at meets, they see the turbo and get scared off.. most Honda dudes don't know MSPs, so they think we're sandbagging them when we say "170hp".

Anyways, I had a catless Integra playing around on the highway and I signaled to him to line em up.. He obliged and we gave them all they had and we stayed right next to each other the entire time. So that makes me kind of happy, since he was modded, now I think its safe to assume I am PROBABLY *just* over 200.

But thats on 6-7psi.. and I have this MBC in my hand that wants me to run 10 ;)
 
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Just wait until you crank the boost, I have never had any trouble with anything K-powered that didn't have forced induction.
 
Lmao. Why oh why I ask. A corolla s tried me on a red light. I didn't know he was trying me until the first 30 ft then the rest was history. Poor guy...

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
Tough to compare the power vut torque is what matters. I rode in a 200hp na kl and it pins you when you go but it doesn't keep you there. These cars hold you in the seat with more usble torque curve.
Most hondas seem to make a lot of hp up high but little torque.
 
Alright.. so I just got home from working on this thing. I am trying to push forward through this lazy rut I've been in. I installed the hydra motorsports crank pulley, new belts, changed oil, and installed the MBC. I am running 7.5W30 full synthetic Mobile 1 (custom blend.. lmao)

I had oh so slight rubbing of the bolts (against the lower timing belt cover) on the pulley so I had to pull it all back off and force a tiny bit of clearance with a dremel. ;)





I set the MBC to 2 "clicks" and that was too much. lmao. I have to dial it back a click... I hit 13psi at approx 85-90% throttle and I felt the clutch slip. I verified it when I got home.. you could smell a faint whiff of that distinct clutch smell. I knew this day would come. I've had that Greddy Stage 1 since day 1 (It came with the car.. lol) I seriously have to get my s*** together and install it, because right now thats my weakest link.

The car WOKE UP pretty seriously though.. so I am not really surprised a 155K mile factory clutch couldn't handle 13 pounds.

No fuel cut either, but CEL is now ON....
 
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Valk said:
Fill your new oem with silicon. It isn't the same but better than stock. if you want that solid and smooth inout feel you would really need solid. And upgraded shifter bushings too.

Of course I don't have a twm to speak for buy the mounts and bushings made msp shifter pretty nice.
I have to find it in the p5 no matter what I put in there heh.

215km trans vs 130km though.
Click to expand...

I'm having problems getting into 1st and 2nd gear when the outside temps start dropping (like right now). Would shifter bushings and filling the MM help with this problem? Also, which shifter bushings? I've gone all over the place with gear oil and nothing seems to smooth it out (Redline, Mobil 1 twice, Pennzoil Syncomesh).


Put my SAFC and custom end links up for sale. Windshield was replaced on Friday because it cracked for no apparent reason. Installer noticed rust on the passenger side A pillar. Must have been a hack job when they replaced the windshield way back in 2004 from stone chips. The A-pillar has some decent bubbling from rust. Installer did some grinding and priming to try and help. Wish he would have told me while he was doing it because I would have ground it down and match painted. Now I'll just have to wait and see how bad it gets after this winter.

Almost forgot, also got full new set of exhaust manifold grade 8 studs and stainless lock nuts to replace the broken passenger side studs. TheRetrofitSource also warrantied my HID wiring harness because it's falling apart after two years. Cheap Chinese crap.
 
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Ugh, epic fail for replacing passenger side exhaust manifold studs. There's just not enough room in there to weld something to the stud to get it out. Might bite the bullet and take it into the shop to have them do it. Tempted to just buy a SteedSpeed and all the hardware and have a shop just swap everything out. We'll see though.
 
livelyjay said:
Ugh, epic fail for replacing passenger side exhaust manifold studs. There's just not enough room in there to weld something to the stud to get it out. Might bite the bullet and take it into the shop to have them do it. Tempted to just buy a SteedSpeed and all the hardware and have a shop just swap everything out. We'll see though.
Click to expand...

I pulled the radiator and used a center punch and a 5/16 drill bit to drill a slot in the end of the stud, then I used a flathead to back it out.
 
OThree.5 said:
I pulled the radiator and used a center punch and a 5/16 drill bit to drill a slot in the end of the stud, then I used a flathead to back it out.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, although I have a MIG so I can easily weld a nut or end of a bolt to the stud and crank it out that way. I could also use a rotary tool (ugh, why didn't I think of it while the car was apart) and use the flat head screwdriver like you suggested. I'll be doing the timing belt/water pump in the spring so I'll re-visit the problem then.
 
Brian_K said:
how do you like the crank pulley? is there a noticeable difference from the stock one?
Click to expand...

I don't have a hydra but I had a Medieval light crank pulley (V1, the screws for the timing teeth broke and it came apart) and it definitely made a noticeable difference.

livelyjay said:
That's a good idea, although I have a MIG so I can easily weld a nut or end of a bolt to the stud and crank it out that way. I could also use a rotary tool (ugh, why didn't I think of it while the car was apart) and use the flat head screwdriver like you suggested. I'll be doing the timing belt/water pump in the spring so I'll re-visit the problem then.
Click to expand...
If you remove the bracket for the PS pump you should have plenty of room.
 
Brian_K said:
how do you like the crank pulley? is there a noticeable difference from the stock one?
Click to expand...

To be honest... IDK. I turned up the boost so there is no way to know unless I put it back to wastegate pressure (which I probably will do since my clutch is slipping)

livelyjay said:
That's a good idea, although I have a MIG so I can easily weld a nut or end of a bolt to the stud and crank it out that way. I could also use a rotary tool (ugh, why didn't I think of it while the car was apart) and use the flat head screwdriver like you suggested. I'll be doing the timing belt/water pump in the spring so I'll re-visit the problem then.
Click to expand...

http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/m... Protege/20150621_042827_zpsvqialb1a.jpg.html

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums...speed Protege/20150621_094032_zpsj5sso0fh.jpg
 
hornsfan10609 said:
If you remove the bracket for the PS pump you should have plenty of room.
Click to expand...
My problem is more with getting the exhaust manifold out of the way enough to have room. This time I just removed nuts from the studs, disconnected the EGR tube, and just slid it down. Is there a way to fully remove the manifold and turbo as one unit so I have room to work? It's mostly the oil and coolant lines that have me stumped.
 
livelyjay said:
My problem is more with getting the exhaust manifold out of the way enough to have room. This time I just removed nuts from the studs, disconnected the EGR tube, and just slid it down. Is there a way to fully remove the manifold and turbo as one unit so I have room to work? It's mostly the oil and coolant lines that have me stumped.
Click to expand...

Yes.. I had to remove the whole thing.

Drain all your oil and coolant.
pull the rad hoses
disconnect the O2
unscrew EGR pipe
Unscrew that braided oil line to the turbo.
Remove the upper coolant line from the water elbow
Remove the other upper hose (its the one in the pic with the "X" on the tape
remove the lower drain line that connects to the block (from underneath)
unbolt from exhaust and head

20150621_030930_zpsinfjvi2h.jpg


remove this bracket that holds the turbo to the block (unless yours is also already broken.. lol)

20150621_034140_zps3zehg4la.jpg


remove 1 other bolt that holds the bracket for your S pipe (see in pic below)

20150621_042804_zpse49dcazc.jpg




ASSEMBLY PULLED

20150621_042819_zpsnrtsbfvc.jpg
 
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