I believe he means frayed,... my brake cables didn't look scared at all when I checked them.
Hey good thing your break cables weren't scared at all because then they would be Frayed lol!
I believe he means frayed,... my brake cables didn't look scared at all when I checked them.
Okay I can do that but my only problem is that I'm still really new to all this and I'm not 100% sure what I should check for (Sorry if this sounds stupid...) I presume that I would just be looking if the pad is touching the rotor right? I was originally going to take a look with someone who knows better then me...
Lifting a corner is good practice anyway,.. in case you ever get a flat (check your owners manual for proper placement). Just get the tire off the ground and spin it,... I could barely move mine,... you'll notice if it's dragging. It may make a bit of a rubbing noise but the tire should spin quite freely.
As far as just a quick inspection goes,.. just go up close to the wheel and sniff a bit for that burning brake smell,... put your hand on the middle of the wheel and see if it's hot.
A guy a couple of weeks ago said his rear rotor was glowing red hot,... that's real bad
If you've got a standard, you can kind of get an idea of drag when you're coasting to a stop,.. take your foot off the brake when you're going about one mile an hour and pay attention to the very last bit of movement as it completely stops. If that last little bit of movement is kinda a jerk,... if you now what I mean. Picture a bicycle wheel with over tightened bearings and the way it stops when you spin it freely,.. it stops kinda notchy like. I do it every once in a while,... if your on a slight incline,.. you shouldn't notice anything as the car slows stops then starts to roll backwards. You'll know what I mean after trying it a few times.
I've got 130,000 miles on mine and never add or even notice the dip stick reading change between my oil changes every 3100 miles (5000 km),... may be I'm just lucky.
mine did it at 200K. about half a quart per week
next time you change the oil, a cheap thing to try out...Look in the book at the parts store for a 2001 Mazda 626 V6 filter...and buy that...its the exact same, only slightly 'deeper' with a larger internal element...the tuna can these cars normally get are goofy..i've been using the V6 filters ever since i bought it...with no noticeable issues so far...
see if that cleans up your oil a little better...and the price for the filter will be the same...with the larger filter add an extra 1/4 quart of oil or so...the deeper element will hold more out of the engine.
whats fraid?
I will change the PCV valve as it has been recommended to me by others as well. As for a compression test I can do one I just have no idea how and I most likely don't have the tools... I guess for this one it would be easier to take it to a mechanic?