3k to spend on rebuild. suggestions?

Because they can be made fast with a $5.00 boost controller..

An MSP needs $4000.00 In Engine and EMS, then $7000 in trans...
 
^ Very true, my buddy owns three SRT-4's and even though they can't turn for s*** he's pushing 500hp on stock internals on one and has only spent a total of $2000 on performance/safety equipment in order to run it at the track (FWD Drag racing).

I've spent $10,000 on engine/trans/suspension parts and I still need to forge my engine. So right now I'm making 0 hp...
 
Why does everybody think the srt4's are fast?
stock for what they are fast and they are over engineered. The motor and trans can hold 500hp literally without going into them (obviously not talking about clutch). tune ability ect ect. yes the int. on those things are crap and they are just a cheap neon on roids but isnt a MSP just a cheap protege on a low dose of roids? The SRT4 can't make a u-turn to save it's life and everything is just about a 3 point turn. Also their are way way more 10 sec srt4s then then will ever be in a msp.
 
I refuse to call an "SRT4" anything but a Neon... I hate them. Sure, they can be made fast with ease and very little expense, but there's just something about them...
 
I refuse to call an "SRT4" anything but a Neon... I hate them. Sure, they can be made fast with ease and very little expense, but there's just something about them...

Exactly, im not knocking the MSP but it will never be on the same straight line performance as a skittle. However with that said and having driven both of them for a period of time. I prefer my MSP but a stock srt will roast tires in 2nd gear at 15-20mph from a roll. My msp will spin them in 2nd from a punch almost fully bolted but not consitantly like a skittle will. Also with the motor size differece its like comparing a msp to a ms3.
 
Yeah the speed in my opinion is just a lot more comfortable to drive and be in. Plus here in utah we have some pretty wicked canyons that I know the speed will be more fun in. What do I need to get so I can set my boost in each gear? 15Lbs plus is probably pointless in 1st and 2nd gear
 
Yeah his msp was 300 at the wheels. He is just running an ssafc as well. This is it
PS_65c95e2d-0c31-4c2d-9298-c6fd542f4.jpg
 
The first two things I would do is build the motor and get a standalone. However that might be over your budget. I think a standalong such as haltech supports that feature but not sure when it comes to boost by gear.
 
A stand alone is the only way you can boost by gear, you will also need an electronic boost controller. You won't see 15 psi in first either. I barely get 12 with the tiny vj14 in my 323

Also I understand they can hold 500 hp on stock internals but so can the ms3. And they don't handle for s***. My brothers civic with 205 whp walked away from one with ease that was moded. And his old cobalt ss was dead even with a stock one. It can have 1000 hp for all I care if it can't turn what's the point? Not to mention try driving one, I'd probly have more fun in a Prius
 
A stand alone is the only way you can boost by gear, you will also need an electronic boost controller. You won't see 15 psi in first either. I barely get 12 with the tiny vj14 in my 323

Also I understand they can hold 500 hp on stock internals but so can the ms3. And they don't handle for s***. My brothers civic with 205 whp walked away from one with ease that was moded. And his old cobalt ss was dead even with a stock one. It can have 1000 hp for all I care if it can't turn what's the point? Not to mention try driving one, I'd probly have more fun in a Prius


ok we get it you dont like the skittle.. you also obviously missed were i stated my uncle and I traded cars for a bit.
 
So if my pistons are still good, I will buy a stand alone system instead of going .040 over and getting new pistons when its not necessary. The tune is a lot more important to me than the size of my piston. I want the car to run great with no fuel cuts or anything. I want it to be a smooth, quick ride. Also, with a full stand alone management system, I can tell it to not throw up certain cel's right? I have a cel right now for a safety neutral switch and cause of this i havent been able to pass inspection here.
 
If you've already done compression testing and its failed, then do a leak down test to see where you're leaking from already and comfirm what's wrong!
 
A stand alone is the only way you can boost by gear, you will also need an electronic boost controller. You won't see 15 psi in first either. I barely get 12 with the tiny vj14 in my 323

Also I understand they can hold 500 hp on stock internals but so can the ms3. And they don't handle for s***. My brothers civic with 205 whp walked away from one with ease that was moded. And his old cobalt ss was dead even with a stock one. It can have 1000 hp for all I care if it can't turn what's the point? Not to mention try driving one, I'd probly have more fun in a Prius

Actually the apexi avc-r can do boost by gear and its only a ebc
 
...with a full stand alone management system, I can tell it to not throw up certain cel's right? I have a cel right now for a safety neutral switch and cause of this i havent been able to pass inspection here.

You are talking about a Piggy Back, not a standalone... (As In Only One, Not Two)
With a "Stand Alone" you remove the stock ECU.... So Yeah.. the dash will no longer do anything and you will have... NO MORE CEL.

You will end up with something like this..

photo1-1.jpg


402927_10152078476035061_1331228147_n.jpg


The Haltech will do Boost By Gear... But it needs to know Road Speed to calculate Gear...
 
260 is not almost 300. Also that was in 2006. Most people on here probly aren't original owners and have one that's been ragged out and will never even hold together at 12 psi
 
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