well i just drove it about 20 miles last night on the way home from my dads house,he has a lift which helps alot, it felt very smooth almost like factory but it was just a little more stiff and they handling was awsome, very sharp and crisp,,,,love it and looks good too i think! oh and on another note some of the tools needed on the other threads were alittle wrong, on the front all you need is a hammer(sledge preferably)6 mm allen, 14 and 17 mm wrenches and sockets, spring compressors, a flat blade screw driver, and wd 40 is helpful. and the rear all you need is a 14 mm wrench, 5 mm allen, 17mm socket. and of coarse for all you need jacks, jack stands, or a lift.i have done a drop install on jack stands it isnt really that bad. i am no pro and it only took around three hour to complete, much better then paying a shop 300 bucks!Tonys3 said:
yep going to a buddy at the local mazda dealer to have it done in the morningChopstickHero said:make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment...
Why is a wheel alignment important after a drop? I know it is important but why? Is it because of the toe or somthing?ChopstickHero said:make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment...
Read post # 14 of this threadTuRbOtEcTicS said:
toes isnt so bad but camber and caster need to be taken care of, i dropped 1.8 inches and every thing but the caster in the rear was able to be put back into factory spec with out any kind of alignment kit,,,when the dealer did the alignment they were not able to get the caster into factory specs but it was only.01 and .03 degrees out,every thing else was able to be put back to spec.TuRbOtEcTicS said:
nopi but tell them to match tire racks pice eibach part number is 4.4555 , i got them for 237.13 drop shipped straight from eibach but had to have nopi order them.if you need anything else just shoot me a line.oh nopi order line 1-800-277-6674.31R said:
