Sprint springs installed this morning!!

They are very good springs, i've had mine for about a month and it handles like a champ now.........check out my car.........
 

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do you change your camber kits also?? how much of a drop did you get???
answer soon please because I really want these ones. Tell me also the pros and cons of this spings

thanks
 
there is not a camber kit out yet, but you will need it mainly on the rear.....otherwise they are really great...Sprint said they will be coming out with a kit soon.......so they say......get them they're worth the money!!!! :)
 
well, the front two are pain in the ass, but the back was really easy. I dont know what else to tell you besides if you look at the diy on this site for changing springs, you dont need to compress the front springs to get them out(you dont have to the rears either) but you have to jack up the whole front and as soon as you poun the strut out finally, (takes a while) the lower assembly can be moved easly. I used a 5 lb sledge hammer, and it still took about 10 minutes to knock the strut out on each side.
 
so all you did was replaced the springs. nothing else? didnt you get it realigned at all? and what about cambers? you think its gonna effect your ride at all not adjusting those? just wondering cause im thinking of installing the progress springs but did not know if i do need a camber kits or some kind of readjustment.
 
My main concern is the ride quality after the drop. It is bouncy or just firm? This is my daily driver and I think that a slight drop looks great, I just don't want to sacrifice comfort by doing so.
 
The ride is a bit bumpier and is stiffer than stock. And it handles 1000 times better that stock too. But is a alignement really necessary?
 
TuRbOtEcTicS said:
The ride is a bit bumpier and is stiffer than stock. And it handles 1000 times better that stock too. But is a alignment really necessary?
As far as alignment goes..
I have a very crude, but hopefully effective diagram that could help explain why an alignment IS necessary after changing ride height.

In this very crude diagram, imagine that the black line represents the steering rack, and the blue lines represent the tie rods at original height, and the red lines represent the tie rods at the new lowered height.

In this example, after lowering the car, the effective length of the tie rods would have increased, causing a "toe in" condition if not corrected.

Depending on the angle of the tie rods at original height VS. Angle of tie rods after lowering, the toe would most definitely be affected.

(I have seen some rare cases where the angle before matched the angle afterwards. Originally angled down a few degrees, after lowering, angled up the same few degrees leaving the car with a perfect alignment (toe only).

Hope you can make sense of my diagram....
 

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i installed sprint springs like for a month now but its not low enough for me. Is there any other way i can make my car lower without cutting the springs or buying coilovers?
 
TuRbOtEcTicS said:
i installed sprint springs like for a month now but its not low enough for me. Is there any other way i can make my car lower without cutting the springs or buying coilovers?

Your could clamp rungs of the springs together

Found the attached pics on the web, here
 

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hey this thread is kindof old lol. but i just found out about these springs, i would like to see more pictures, preferably a sedan, i if possible. (peep)
 
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