Amplifier and LOC Installed

milkyxj

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2013 CX-5 Touring FWD
Ok guys, I finally got my amp and line output converter put in along with an old sub I had in my garage. Remember this is step one of 3 for my audio upgrades, next will be speakers and last I will re-evaluate the subwoofer (probably going with 2 8" subs where the spare tire should be). Install took about 3 hours really not too bad. I used a Polk PA D5000.5 under the driver's seat and an audiocontrol LC6i under the passenger seat with some nice 6 channel stinger RCA's between them and some 18ga 9 conductor speed wire from ebay as speaker wires with 4ga power wire. The amp is also running a sealed 12" MB Quart sub at 1ohm. I mounted the remote bass boost in the cubby under the radio. Initial impressions are great, it is definitely louder and the gains are set really low with high pass filters on to try not to blow the factory speakers. Once I get some better speakers in I can stop using the filters and let the amp go to work. The LC6i is great, lets me keep all my factory balance and fade options and I have zero noise in my system. Total cost is about 450 but I already had the subwoofer and power wires. Here are some pictures.

Removed the battery and ran the power wire through the grommet behind it
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Power wire coming through the firewall on driver's side
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Battery reinstalled with a circuit breaker on the power wire
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Inside the car with the seats out and wires routed. I ran one section of speed wire from the radio outputs to the LC6i and another set from the amp up to the factory wires. The fat black wires hanging out where the radio should be is the speed wire.
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Amp wired and mounted under driver's seat. Instead of using screws I mounted the amp and LOC to the carpet with velcro tape so I can move them to adjust without removing the seats. The hook side is stuck to the amp and it grips the carpet like it was made for it.
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Line output converter hooked up under the passenger seat and mounted with velcro
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Subwoofer in the trunk, MB Quart dual 2ohm voice coil running at 1ohm
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LOC after the seat was put back in (view from backseat)
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amp viewed from back seat after seat was reinstalled
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Remote gain knob mounted in cubby
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Nice stealth setup! You did a real good job. I just installed a LC2i and love it also. Put a kicker amp + 2 x 8" Solobaric l5's + polk db351 on the dash. Decided to replace the kicker subs with a sundown sa12 so far enjoying it. Best upgrade I've ever done so far was the dash speakers, it made a world of difference. Anyways keep up the good work.
 
Starting the next step of my audio upgrades. Ordering speakers for the front doors as well as some RAAM mat (cheap dynamat). I may even order my upgrade subs. Will post an update when everything is in and I install it.
 
Subs and focals in

So my subs, focals, and RAAMMAT came in today. I won't have time to change the speakers or put on the sound deadener until this weekend. For now I put in the subs, they fit perfectly. Here are a few pictures, I will pull them out tomorrow and put RAAMMAT all over the floor under them. Sound wise the 2 ported 8" subs are louder than the sealed 12" but don't go as low. The alpines are 300w RMS and 2ohms each. My amp puts out 500w at 1ohm so each sub is getting 250w. I will do more tuning after everything is in and report more on sound.

Old sub compared to the new subs
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New subs where the spare should be, they fit perfectly and there is about 1/2" of space between them and the floor. Still room in the well for the air compressor and tire plug kit I have in case of a flat. Mazda built a hook into the plastic floor that hooks onto the back of the seat and holds it all up, very nice.
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2 pairs of focals waiting to be put in
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RAAMMAT waiting to be put in. Quality seems comparable to DYNAMAT, paid around 120 shipped for enough to do the whole car and some of their ensolite foam for the doors
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The rest of the install

Ok so after about 8 hours and a case of beer I got everything else installed. I did the RAAMMAT on the front and rear doors, hatch and floor in the cargo area. I put the focals in the rear with screws and used the factory brackets in the front. I put the tweeters in the factory locations, and FYI if you have a touring without bose you have tweeters in the dash not 3.5" speakers. The imaging is great even with the woofers in the doors and tweeters in the dash. Overall it sounds great, I listened to 3 or 4 cd's in my driveway and am definitely impressed. NIN, Metallica, Tool, Foo Fighters all sounded superb and these are all entry level focals. The 8" subs don't hit quite as low as 12" speakers I'm used to but the 8's are very crisp and clean especially with rock music and I have all my cargo space. Can't comment on sound deadening yet since I haven't driven on the freeway but I will update when I can.
Rear speaker with RAAMMAT (I put a layer of ensolite as well on top of this)
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Factory tweeter vs Focal tweeter
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Front door speaker with RAAMMAT and Ensolite
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After a week of listening I am still very satisfied with my setup. I have played with the gains and crossovers some and smoothed everything out. With the volume at 25 it is as loud as I would normally listen to it. One nice benefit is that the rear hatch is alot easier to close with the RAAMMAT on it, I only put 2 or 3 sheets on it and it closes alot easier now. The Focal Access 165 coaxes in the rear doors are really impressive for the cost and sound quality they put out (they sound great down to about 45HZ). The IS165 components are great too but I had to set the crossover to filter out everything under about 50HZ or they would bottom out at high volumes. With the crossovers adjusted the 8" subs blend really well and it keeps the soundstage above the dash.
 
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How did you go about splicing the speedwire into the factory harness? Did you just cut the lines a few inches off the harness to have room to connect them? I was just going to upgrade my speakers, but after seeing this I am going to opt for a 5 channel amp to get the full use of the speaker upgrade.

Also, any tips on the LC6i tuning?

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I think I just answered my own question on the wire splicing... 2 Metra adapters, connect everything straight through except the speaker lines.
70-7903 and 71-7903 all of $20 for both on Amazon.
 
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Metra didn't have the adapters out yet when I did mine, but that would be the best way to do it (I cut the wires and had about 2 inches off the radio and harness to splice into which was a pain). LC6i tuning just follow the included directions, pretty simple. I have the amp gains turned all the way down and it gets loud enough for me (35 is as loud as I listen to it and that is highway with windows down)
 
Well I have almost all the pieces sitting here, waiting on my speedwire to come in. I went with the LC7i since it adds the bass restore. Have a JL 300/4, 2 sets of Kicker DS600.2 components, all the metra harnesses, amp wiring kit, and a bit fat roll of sound deadening. I still need to figure out where I'm mounting all the tweeters... I was going to get coax for the rear, but I got the JL and both sets of speakers dirt cheap. Couldn't pass it up.

Thanks for the post and photos that got me kick started!
 
Well I have almost all the pieces sitting here, waiting on my speedwire to come in. I went with the LC7i since it adds the bass restore. Have a JL 300/4, 2 sets of Kicker DS600.2 components, all the metra harnesses, amp wiring kit, and a bit fat roll of sound deadening. I still need to figure out where I'm mounting all the tweeters... I was going to get coax for the rear, but I got the JL and both sets of speakers dirt cheap. Couldn't pass it up.

Thanks for the post and photos that got me kick started!

I haven't noticed any bass roll-off with the factory deck so the lc6i is working perfectly. I did the tweeters in the factory locations (in the dash) and it sounds great. I hear that focal tweets can be a little harsh but with them pointed up towards the windshield and not right at me they're excellent. Could also do them on the doors right where the mirrors are located ( flush mounted in that black plastic piece ). Good luck and post pics when you're done.
 
Great post! I also changed the system and installed a JBL GTO 5355 amp with 2x JBL MS62C + 2x JBL rear, Stinger LOC and proper grounds for the amp, and LOC but I keep hearing a small pop/click noise when I change songs, or when i turn the volume level on the stock head unit from 1 to zero or from zero to 1. I believe the gains were set correctly, any ideas?
 
Did you ever listen to the IS165 with the stock radio?

After a week of listening I am still very satisfied with my setup. I have played with the gains and crossovers some and smoothed everything out. With the volume at 25 it is as loud as I would normally listen to it. One nice benefit is that the rear hatch is alot easier to close with the RAAMMAT on it, I only put 2 or 3 sheets on it and it closes alot easier now. The Focal Access 165 coaxes in the rear doors are really impressive for the cost and sound quality they put out (they sound great down to about 45HZ). The IS165 components are great too but I had to set the crossover to filter out everything under about 50HZ or they would bottom out at high volumes. With the crossovers adjusted the 8" subs blend really well and it keeps the soundstage above the dash.

Hi Milkyxj,
Did you ever listen to the IS165 with the stock radio? Do you think they will run ok without an external amp?

Thanks!

Jajur
 
I'm running the Kicker DS600.2 components in all 4 doors currently on the stock head unit, while I'm trying to sort out the wiring harness deal for the LOC. They have the same RMS/Peak rating as the Focal 165, and sound incredibly better than stock. I'm sure I'm under powering them, and need to get that amp hooked up though... but it's working great for now.

Update on my install... the metra 70-7903 harness... is lacking a lot of leads. UGH! I emailed Metra to see if I could buy more leads from them to add to it or if there was another option, I'm avoiding cutting the factory wiring if at all possible.

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I hate to bump such an old thread, but has METRA or PAC come up with a harness(s) to avoid cutting of the factory wiring?
 
Anybody with a Bose system know of a way to get a low level output for an amp and woofer??

I know there's a low level output to tap somewhere in there. . .Any ideas welcome.
 
RAAMMAT waiting to be put in. Quality seems comparable to DYNAMAT, paid around 120 shipped for enough to do the whole car and some of their ensolite foam for the doors
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What's the quality like on raamat? I have hushmat on my trunk lid, rear deck, rear quarter panels, and the spare wheel well. It cost about $100 I think. I'm trying to find a cheaper alternative that has comparable results. I want enough to cover all four of my doors and maybe some for the panels themselves. Thanks in advance.
 
I bought a cheap kicker loc to attempt to install a amp and sub. I have a 2013 cx5 sport touring. Do you know which color wires are for the rear speakers to power the loc. I couldn't afford the loc like yours and already have some audio stuff laying around. Any tips would be awesome :)
 
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