How to: change REAR rotors and pads (56k/dial up stay out)

I took pictures as I put it all back together. Put this part is more important then taking them apart anyway. Here ya go

Tools needed: cool jack, stands, shop light, brake parts cleaner, breaker bar w/21mm socket (or the tire iron), ratchet, torx socket, disc brake lube, disc brake quiet, anti-seize lube, hammer, flat head screwdriver, vice grips, forgot the sizes of the wrenches (think it was 10mm, 8mm, and the socket might be 14mm, just bring the box!), and the caliper compressor tool!

Rear caliper has to be TURNED in, not squezzed! Rent the tool for free from the auto store. It's that little circle thing next to the torx socket.
Spray the new pads and rotors with the brake parts cleaner to get some of the new film and crap off before installing.





Where I jacked it up and put the stands,




Like I said, we're putting it all back together. So if you're taking it all apart, just do this backwards... REALLY SUGGESTED TO PUT THE LUB, but not "needed".

DO NOT put a crap load of anti seize on the hub, (I put too much, just put a "dab" on the bolts)


put your new rotor on:

I put the anti seize lube on the caliper brigde two holes, but not needed


lubbed the bolts that are going to hold the bridge,

screw in the bolts to secure the bridge, tighten the hell out of em' (not sure of the torque on these, but GET EM TIGHT)

compress the caliper. This is were you need the tool that fits in those two holes. I took the caliper completely off to do this because it just kept spining and not compressing. When the caliper was completely removed, it was compressing (IF YOU REMOVE THE CALIPER, BLEED THE BRAKES!)

when it's compressed like this, put the pads on the bridge and check to make sure the caliper is compressed enough to fit over the pads and then take it off and remove the pads.

put the disc brake quiet crap on the BACK OF THE PAD (AGAIN, I put too much on here. Just needs to be on the contact points. Got a little carried away with all the lube. You guys know how that can be! OH YEAH YOU DO!

put the pads on the bridge,

put the caliper on,

put the retaining clip back on

put the ultra disc brake lube on the bolts and boots of the caliper before installing, be generous.

Screw those puppies in, not nearly as tight as the bolts on the bridge.

Put your little black caps back on to protect those babies

Put your wheel back on


Sorry if it takes forever to download this page, and if I'm wrong or forgot anything, add it in here!

dude.... thats way too much antiseize

i hope none of it gets on ur brakes and affects stopping performance

On the hub and bolts?

I thought about that, but don't think it'll be a problem. It's going to be in the lug nuts mostly. I'm actually a little more worried about the blue "quiet brake" crap more... Think I overdid that a bit much


Hasn't been a problem yet though. ALL IS GOOD (thumb)

I forgot (going to add it to the begining, you should spray the pads and rotors pretty good with the parts cleaner before the install too.. And i'll add about how I may have put too much antiseize

You aren't supposed to spray brake pads with Brakeklean (SP) or equivilent... or at least thats what I was taught.

Actually, that's way too much anti-seize because that stuff attracts and traps dirt and moisture like nobody's business. Use it (I do), but use it sparingly.

Yes, that's waaaaay more anti-sieze than you ever need.

smoke_31 said:

You aren't supposed to spray brake pads with Brakeklean (SP) or equivilent... or at least thats what I was taught.

Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with spraying brake parts cleaner on your brake pads. In fact, it's common practice (to get excess binder/gunk off the pads if possible) before installation.

I was able to compress my calipers using needle-nose pliers and a little force. A bit of a PITA, but it gets the job done. Also I would consider the step of removing the caliper bridge optional, nor required, to replace the brake pads. Nice pictorial.

absolutly too much grease and lube on every single part you put it on! i really hope you correct this or ppl wlll read the replies and not do that themselves

the quiet brake stuff need only to be put on contact points, and the neversieze or antisieze or whatever you used should only be applied like this



as you put the nut on the antisieze will follow the threads and get a thin coating around everthing anyway

stick with the saying "a little dab'll do ya"

also, brak kleen (there's a line over the "a" signifying that it's a long "a") is excellent and should be sprayed on your pads and brake parts before installation, and during routine maintenence like during tire rotation.

also, i hope if you got those rotors brand new that you scuffed them up a little bit with some sand paper. this will help to seat the pads better, and lots of times new rotors have a waxy film on them for shipping purposes (so they don't rust up). it's good to sand them, then blast them with brak kleen or brake cleaner equivalent

I don't think its too big of a deal, but I wouldn't use anti seize on the wheel studs. if they were severely rusted I might use a little pblaster

oaklandopen said:

absolutly too much grease and lube on every single part you put it on! i really hope you correct this or ppl wlll read the replies and not do that themselves

the quiet brake stuff need only to be put on contact points, and the neversieze or antisieze or whatever you used should only be applied like this



as you put the nut on the antisieze will follow the threads and get a thin coating around everthing anyway

stick with the saying "a little dab'll do ya"

also, brak kleen (there's a line over the "a" signifying that it's a long "a") is excellent and should be sprayed on your pads and brake parts before installation, and during routine maintenence like during tire rotation.

also, i hope if you got those rotors brand new that you scuffed them up a little bit with some sand paper. this will help to seat the pads better, and lots of times new rotors have a waxy film on them for shipping purposes (so they don't rust up). it's good to sand them, then blast them with brak kleen or brake cleaner equivalent

Click to expand...

I haven't seen a new rotor that didn't already have a non directional pattern cut into the friction surface, and I can clearly see that one does


I just noticed that insane amount of anti seize he used on the hub, and wheel studs. that is way too much I wouldn't have used it at all, but if you're going to use it I wouldn't put any on the hub surface

Thanks guys. The more info you give me, the more I'll edit this.

I'm going off of changing these out like 7 years ago on another car with a buddy of mine. It's been billions of years and did this alone this time. Just want to help others that might have a question.

So like I said in the op, if you see crap I did wrong, or WAY wrong, let me know and I'll edit o.p. for future people

Also does it say on the package to put the "Brake Quiet" lube on the caliper slides? Some lubes/greases are corrosive to the caliper slide boots, which in the long run would cause the caliper to not slide back.

Anti-Seize is one of those corrosive (to rubber) greases. Not saying you put it on there, just for general info.

The stuff that comes in those packets is specifically made for lubing caliper slide pins...

I usually just use white lithium grease.