will the stock elec. system support 1kw?

[FrigginGLI]

It's the offical meter now isn't it?

 

[N1XRR]

what does the temp and dB's you get have to do with the electrical current flow? having a good ground is for overall efficiency of the system. think of it as bottle necking the power if you don't have a good ground. you want as little resistance for the ground as possible.

and just an FYI, i'm assuming you were using an audio control meter or some other meter other than the new term lab USB meter. unless you have a freshly calibrated mic for each test, you can get upwards of 3-4 dB's difference between readings. some of the extreme competitors i was talking to told me that sometimes they'd get 4-5 dB difference from day to day, since when the mic is used, especially at high dB levels, it will need to be recalibrated for the most accurate and consistant readings. the new term lab is much more accurate and consistant, though. at world finals there was at most a .4 dB difference between competitors personal meters and the ones used for the comp. the difference between audio controls is upwards of 7-8 dB's sometimes.

Oh, don't get me wrong, I don't disagree with you. Good grounds are ALWAYS a requirement. Infact, that can be proven case-in-point with 2nd gen RX7's. People put 3rd gen alternators on the car thinking it'll solve the power problem(3800rpms hesitation), but it doesn't. Its only until they re-ground the battery/engine that it makes a difference.

The reason why I tested in a little bit cooler weather was a little more for curiousity...but I was worried about the heat/cold affecting the sub's performance.

 

[Poseur]

umm, dude, I hate to say it, but what are you talking about? for one, your "differences" are more or less too small to be measured considering the accuracy of the testing equipment, and two, if you're somuch for the idea of a good ground then why were you so resitant to it before with the "no way in hell" remark?

 

[N1XRR]

umm, dude, I hate to say it, but what are you talking about? for one, your "differences" are more or less too small to be measured considering the accuracy of the testing equipment, and two, if you're somuch for the idea of a good ground then why were you so resitant to it before with the "no way in hell" remark?

Too small to be measured? Are you talking about the outside temp vs db reading? Or are you talking about the hesitation in the RX7?

For the temp reading I was just experimenting, no more no less. If nobody experiments then nothing new will get done.

As for the RX7, you can ask ANY 2nd gen RX7 owner about "the hesitation" and they'll know what you mean. Regrounding the car fixes that problem. It is a proven fast. If you care to argue, then I'll take you out in my RX7 with my new ground disconnected and see what you say.

I'm all for good ground...but I have a better way of completing my task. You must not keep cars for very long otherwise you'd know that bare metal + water + time = RUST. There is no way I will EVER take off the paint under the hood, or anywhere else on the outside of the car.

I, personally, run a seperate 4 guage wire from my battery to the inside of my car and ground it there. Its a few more feet, but it prevents any rusting as the interior doesn't get wet (unless there is a problem)

 

[got wake?]

The reason why I tested in a little bit cooler weather was a little more for curiousity...but I was worried about the heat/cold affecting the sub's performance.

colder weather equals more dB's 90% of the time, unless the setup is designed for high temps. i've seen a system gain 5 dB's with the added heat. i've also seen systems loose 5 dB's cause of heat. but the mic also has something to do with it. the microphone based meters are effected by atmospheric pressure and temp. the term lab USB is solid state and not effected by anything, hence consistance readings.


pimpprotege69, i think USACi held out and kept audio control course i don't bother with them, since their classes are based on amp power, not subs. so if you spend the money on a mark antony amp, you have an amp that's rated at like 70 watts, but is very capable of over 3k watts it's more of a money game, and whoever spends the most on the best cheater amp is more likely to win

 

[AFaceInTheCrowd]

i was considering a mark antony but they are gawdawefull expensive.

 

[got wake?]

i was considering a mark antony but they are gawdawefull expensive.

you can find the big sub amp for around $500 used. i found some for $350, but the price was raised when USACi announced the rules for next year, which severely favors the antonys one of the only cheater amps that is still allowed in the lowest catagory.