warranty

TantricCurse

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2014 Mazda 2/Sport
Does anyone know what type on engine mods void the warranty on the m2. I have just recently purchased my m2 and want to do some mods but afraid to do anything and void my warranty...pls help
 
My dealer told me anything that changes engine compression or AFR so exhaust and intake will void
 
Depends on the modification/how friendly the dealer is/how much $ you have to attempt to sue if they say no.

Read up on the Magnuson-Moss warranty act, in a nutshell IIRC the dealer has to PROVE that your mods have caused a warranty claim, but that doesn't mean they won't try and pull some crap if they think you won't lawyer up.

IMO cat back exhaust and you'll be fine(header will void it for sure), if you do an air filter I could see any problems with the MAF sensor or end up with scratched cylinder walls they'll say it's from crap getting past the filter. Honestly I'll probably never even install a CAI myself because ones that work are great at sucking up water, and short ram intakes just suck hot air... might be okay for road course racing where you're moving all the time, but for autocross(which I do) it sits for a while and will get heat soaked, the factory intake is actually really good at pulling cooler air.

Doing a tune, if something goes boom obviously you're probably screwed... not to mention any problems that arise could well be because of changed parameters, I had my Mazda3 tuned and would get a very intermittent P0101 for the MAF performance about once every 800 miles. No driveability problems or anything and I didn't bother with resubmitting for a tune revision because it wasn't truly a problem(I'm a tech so I know a bit more about both sides of what goes on in the ECM).

FWIW I found out on my MZ3 that the O2 sensors are NOT covered under powertrain warranty, claiming it was a maintenance item/electrical and only covered under basic warranty.
 
Depends on the modification/how friendly the dealer is/how much $ you have to attempt to sue if they say no.

Read up on the Magnuson-Moss warranty act, in a nutshell IIRC the dealer has to PROVE that your mods have caused a warranty claim, but that doesn't mean they won't try and pull some crap if they think you won't lawyer up.

IMO cat back exhaust and you'll be fine(header will void it for sure), if you do an air filter I could see any problems with the MAF sensor or end up with scratched cylinder walls they'll say it's from crap getting past the filter. Honestly I'll probably never even install a CAI myself because ones that work are great at sucking up water, and short ram intakes just suck hot air... might be okay for road course racing where you're moving all the time, but for autocross(which I do) it sits for a while and will get heat soaked, the factory intake is actually really good at pulling cooler air.

Doing a tune, if something goes boom obviously you're probably screwed... not to mention any problems that arise could well be because of changed parameters, I had my Mazda3 tuned and would get a very intermittent P0101 for the MAF performance about once every 800 miles. No driveability problems or anything and I didn't bother with resubmitting for a tune revision because it wasn't truly a problem(I'm a tech so I know a bit more about both sides of what goes on in the ECM).

FWIW I found out on my MZ3 that the O2 sensors are NOT covered under powertrain warranty, claiming it was a maintenance item/electrical and only covered under basic warranty.

Dang thanks for the post that was very helpful and informative! :) I'm about to read up on the Maguson-Moss warranty act
 
No problem.

Like I said it's really dealer dependent.. instead of a full cat-back maybe an axle back exhaust would be best for warranty reasons... though I'd personally have a pretty damn hard time trying to tell a customer that a cat-back caused... any problems at all(assuming O2 sensors aren't moved or anything).

I work at a BIG used car dealer, we occasionally send cars to the factory dealers for stuff under warranty. I had a Hyundai Santa Fe with a horrific whining/grinding noise in the transmission, it was the final drive carrier bearings most likely... the tech tried to tell me that it was the sound of air rushing through the treads of the tires. I had to convince him pull all 4 wheels off(and just put some lug nuts to keep the rotors on) and run it on the lift to prove he was ******* retarded. They put a transmission in it and was fixed. This is the kind of crap you can expect to deal with. There are some real winners out there.
 
thanks

Thanks your for all your information. I am in plan for a CAI and a full cat back exhaust. I am not wanting to do anymore to the system for right now I just want to add a few more mpgs more than anything. I have yet talked to my dealer to see if they are going to mee a**holes about the mods but knowing this I will contact them asap to find out what they are allowing.
 
I'd frankly skip the CAI. Not enough gain(if any) for the $.

If you really wanted to see if a CAI will give you a gain, you could build a flow meter cheaply to see if it's even worth it on this car.

Here's a decent article talking about what I'm getting at:
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/maf-vs-differential-pressure-for-intake-testing/

And more articles I found on that same site which puts some real world testing results into motion:

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog...ring-the-intake-restriction-on-project-lexus/

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog...tion-doing-some-intake-mods-on-project-lexus/

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/is300-diy-for-tu-intake-snorkel-mod/

Our low revving low output 1.5l is not restricted by the intake. Until you put bigger camshafts in(and get rid of the stock header) you won't be getting any measurable hp from a CAI. In the last pic, look at the Ferrari intakes... they're basic black air boxes.


CAIs will likely produce more power on a dyno because the stock intake isn't having air forced into it at 90mph... but when the car is moving is the only time you need the power.



but if you insist, just keep the old OEM stuff, don't hack up any of the original stuff, and swap it back before you take it in if you ever need to. Keep in mind should something happen(car dies on highway, whatever) this might not be possible when you REALLY need it unless you tow it home, swap parts, then tow to the dealer. Just stuff to think about.
 
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