Mitchell is the program I use for diagrams and specifications. Double click is using a torque wrench to tighten down the nuts to spec, Twice. The locktight should help. The washer might need a lock washer to keep it from backing itself off.Forgive my ignorance::
what is Michell ?
What is double click?
I made sure this morning that the nuts are tight by hand...
I am not very strong guy BTW
even after tightening the sound persists
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Tokico/Espelir Installed: Now thud sound coming over small bumps
- Thread starter dd123
- Start date
Mitchell is the program I use for diagrams and specifications. Double click is using a torque wrench to tighten down the nuts to spec, Twice. The locktight should help. The washer might need a lock washer to keep it from backing itself off.
what is a lock washer ? A washer which has a cut to lock it, right ?
How do you apply locktight on struts top nut ?
Also, I found these in this forum::
Found it!! stupid clunk is gone, it was the metal can, it wasnt being squished enough, so i took the strut out, and just reassembled it so everything so super tight. endlinks are still ok, im thinking they are going to break or something from the stress.
all the bolts come out SO EASY when you wirewheel them to a shine, its awsome!
__________________
Im getting a horrible clunk noise in my front passenger side. most likely the strut mount.
so when im ordering these parts.
I have to get.
Strut mounts, and strut bearings? or is it all included in the "Strut mount"?
Lift up your car and grab the sway bar and shake it. It may be the bushings. Also check to make sure that the springs are seated properly. My front end clunk on the passenger side ended up being the strut mount bushing which is just a little stupid piece of plastic that goes on top of the strut. It could also be that your endlinks are hitting up against another metal part and just making the sound. Check for any contact marks anywhere underneath there. I know how it is to live with clunks. Even if it's something that doesn't hurt the car at all, it bothers you.
Found it!! stupid clunk is gone, it was the metal can, it wasnt being squished enough, so i took the strut out, and just reassembled it so everything so super tight. endlinks are still ok, im thinking they are going to break or something from the stress.
all the bolts come out SO EASY when you wirewheel them to a shine, its awsome!
__________________
Im getting a horrible clunk noise in my front passenger side. most likely the strut mount.
so when im ordering these parts.
I have to get.
Strut mounts, and strut bearings? or is it all included in the "Strut mount"?
Lift up your car and grab the sway bar and shake it. It may be the bushings. Also check to make sure that the springs are seated properly. My front end clunk on the passenger side ended up being the strut mount bushing which is just a little stupid piece of plastic that goes on top of the strut. It could also be that your endlinks are hitting up against another metal part and just making the sound. Check for any contact marks anywhere underneath there. I know how it is to live with clunks. Even if it's something that doesn't hurt the car at all, it bothers you.
Also, I don't think my endlinks are bad, they looked good when changing struts.
Point to notice: There was no noise with the stock struts, I got the noise only after installing brand new tokico blues/espelir...
So, I would think my strut mounts are good as well.
BTW:: what is the significance of the white mark on the top of front strut mount and where they should be pointing in lowered car ?
Point to notice: There was no noise with the stock struts, I got the noise only after installing brand new tokico blues/espelir...
So, I would think my strut mounts are good as well.
BTW:: what is the significance of the white mark on the top of front strut mount and where they should be pointing in lowered car ?
Since, I don't recall what was the original placement of white dot and I plan to do alignment once these noise issue is resolved, I should be fine right ?The dot indicates camber reading.
Alignment would take care of camber as well
CalgaryAE92
Member
dd123, I'm very happy to see you got your struts/springs installed! I'm also very happy to see that between you and MattV (and others), you seemed to have found a solution to all that racket that came with the new setup.
Because you know what? Since I've had my tokico blue/RB setup, I've had a lot of noise (I think I told you that before...) that just isn't resolving. So I'm definitely going to try the washers - and thanks to MattV for making a DIY on it!.
If that doesn't fix it, I'll have to look at tightening up those "metal cans" on the rear struts because that's where I hear all my rattling. I sure hope I don't have to pull the struts out though...
Thanks guys!
Because you know what? Since I've had my tokico blue/RB setup, I've had a lot of noise (I think I told you that before...) that just isn't resolving. So I'm definitely going to try the washers - and thanks to MattV for making a DIY on it!.
If that doesn't fix it, I'll have to look at tightening up those "metal cans" on the rear struts because that's where I hear all my rattling. I sure hope I don't have to pull the struts out though...
Thanks guys!
Last edited:
Alignment of white dots
check protege FAQ for the discription of the white dots and how they affect camber. Basiclly the white dot should be facing the firewall on the fender side not the engine side. Looking from the front bumper the driver side white dot should be at the top right roughly 2 0'Clock the passenger side should be at 10 O'Clock. I hope this helps.
Since, I don't recall what was the original placement of white dot and I plan to do alignment once these noise issue is resolved, I should be fine right ?
Alignment would take care of camber as well
check protege FAQ for the discription of the white dots and how they affect camber. Basiclly the white dot should be facing the firewall on the fender side not the engine side. Looking from the front bumper the driver side white dot should be at the top right roughly 2 0'Clock the passenger side should be at 10 O'Clock. I hope this helps.
dd123, I'm very happy to see you got your struts/springs installed! I'm also very happy to see that between you and MattV (and others), you seemed to have found a solution to all that racket that came with the new setup.
Because you know what? Since I've had my tokico blue/RB setup, I've had a lot of noise (I think I told you that before...) that just isn't resolving. So I'm definitely going to try the washers - and thanks to MattV for making a DIY on it!.
If that doesn't fix it, I'll have to look at tightening up those "metal cans" on the rear struts because that's where I hear all my rattling. I sure hope I don't have to pull the struts out though...
Thanks guys!
CalgaryAE92: let us know if the noise goes away with washer trick. For me, most of the noise went away except for minor nuisance.
CalgaryAE92
Member
Wow...I'm so glad that worked! Having my very adorable 2 year old son "help me" with pulling the back of my car apart really made the job take WAY longer than it should have...but I can't get upset at the little guy and I'm getting him hooked on cars early!
Anyhow, the noise in my rear struts are now 95% gone, I can't believe how quiet the car is now. The real test will be tomorrow when I take it to my work parkade where there are these stupid little successive speed bumps on every level that will rattle ANYTHING.
By the way, I tried to put washers on the front struts (as a prophylactic measure) but I couldn't take the nut off! Whenver I turned the nut, the whole strut rod would spin with it. Some of my very mechanically savvy friends say that this is very common (and normal). Did any of you encounter this issue? I think I might just leave the front struts alone.
Anyhow, the noise in my rear struts are now 95% gone, I can't believe how quiet the car is now. The real test will be tomorrow when I take it to my work parkade where there are these stupid little successive speed bumps on every level that will rattle ANYTHING.
By the way, I tried to put washers on the front struts (as a prophylactic measure) but I couldn't take the nut off! Whenver I turned the nut, the whole strut rod would spin with it. Some of my very mechanically savvy friends say that this is very common (and normal). Did any of you encounter this issue? I think I might just leave the front struts alone.
CalgaryAE92
Member
Ok, still very happy with it! Things still rattle (probably springs) over the speed bumps at work, but it's much improved. Overall, very minimal noise from the back!
So anyone have any experience with not being able to remove the nut frrom the strut rod in the front??
So anyone have any experience with not being able to remove the nut frrom the strut rod in the front??
I've had the washer trick for 5 years. That's for DD and track use through 3 (or so) suspension systems. The only clunk I had was from the rear spring not being seated correctly in it's perch.
My final suspension was:
Mazdaspeed front and rear swaybars (with proper beefier crossmember)
Mazdaspeed endlinks
Tokico Illuminas
Espelirs
Many sets of tires.....
My final suspension was:
Mazdaspeed front and rear swaybars (with proper beefier crossmember)
Mazdaspeed endlinks
Tokico Illuminas
Espelirs
Many sets of tires.....
Shi-Fu JaY
Member
- :
- Audi A4 Quatrro
Ok, still very happy with it! Things still rattle (probably springs) over the speed bumps at work, but it's much improved. Overall, very minimal noise from the back!
So anyone have any experience with not being able to remove the nut frrom the strut rod in the front??
im guessing you have the strut rods with no slot for an allen key so you'll need an impact gun to get the nut loose without the strut rod spinning.
CalgaryAE92
Member
I thought I would need to use an impact wrench to do the fronts so I went to my friend's house tonight and got them done. One washer per strut. Now my car is totally quiet! Thanks guys for all your input and help!
I am happy that my thread helped so many people who have been living with these annoying noise for long time
I am not sure why did you guys tolerate the noise for so long.
I just could not take it and the "thud" sound was definitely not good.
I can very well differentiate the noise coming from hard suspension and the one coming from loose suspension ( which was the case here ).
For me, most of the noise is gone except small one ( thook thook )coming from front which is not so bad..., I would see what can I do about this..
I am not sure why did you guys tolerate the noise for so long.
I just could not take it and the "thud" sound was definitely not good.
I can very well differentiate the noise coming from hard suspension and the one coming from loose suspension ( which was the case here ).
For me, most of the noise is gone except small one ( thook thook )coming from front which is not so bad..., I would see what can I do about this..
Shi-Fu JaY
Member
- :
- Audi A4 Quatrro
I am happy that my thread helped so many people who have been living with these annoying noise for long time
I am not sure why did you guys tolerate the noise for so long.
I just could not take it and the "thud" sound was definitely not good.
I can very well differentiate the noise coming from hard suspension and the one coming from loose suspension ( which was the case here ).
For me, most of the noise is gone except small one ( thook thook )coming from front which is not so bad..., I would see what can I do about this..
I've been testing out new hardware forever now. Trying to eliminate ALL the noise, I've got damn near close, but my problem now is that the strut rod bolt is always coming undone on bad roads from all the vibration.
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