Timing Jumped

Tenc_ms3x

Member
:
Black Mica MS3
Just like the title said, my timing jumped. I've heard that we dont have an interference motor and then i heard we do. Which one is it? I know 2.3's are jumping thanks to a bad design from mazda( thanks Jay) I'm basically trying to prepare myself for what might be wrong with my car. trying to decide wether or not i should buy a new motor or try fixing what i got and upgrading my turbo. (homework)(help)
 

Attachments

  • melinda.jpg
    melinda.jpg
    153.6 KB · Views: 230
Last edited:
Did you trash the motor...If not...And its still running...Whay are you talking of replacing the engine?

If the timing jumped..Pull the belt..repair the issue and install a new belt.

What is the Flaw you speak of...I want to hear this one.
 
its a chain driven motor so my buddy told me i can't do it like i do a belt motor. it only runs when i keep my foot on the gas. it won't start on it's on.
 
the rumor from stealerships on this one is that synthetic oil can actually cause this. i am not quite sure if i buy it but i swear i remember that conversation on here before. it doesnt make sense to me but oh well. in my mind 5w-30 =5w-30 regardless of synthetic or fossil
 
they can jump timing because there is NO key way anywhere in the timing setup so s*** is just pushed on and bolted down.
 
Ok..Even if it is Chain Driven..Did your motor make contact(piston to Valve?)
If not..WHy are you still needing to replace it rather than fix it?

And what is the solution then if these are chain driven?
 
Synthetic oil is the culprit? LMFAO.. i guess my dealer needs to stop offering it for oil changes than huh? Dealerships grasping at straws!
 
I haven't taken the head off to see yet. As for the oil thing that bullsh** never heard of anything like that
 
you cant take it to the dealer and let them fix it ? you are still under warrenty right? just put it back to stock if you have any mods and tak eit to them and have them fix it
 
So the question is ; is the motor an interference design where things have unhappy meetings. Is It? Then and only then can we seek the root source and hopefully the answers to the damage in question.
 
Yup- you need a special bolt that screws into the back of the block to locate the crank. A flat bar that locks the cam in position and a pulley holding tool so you don't break the bolt that got threaded into the block (or the block itself) while removing and reinstalling the crankshaft bolt (which also is suppose to be replaced everytime it is removed).
 
Back