Timing belt replacement on 1.8 (2.0) Proteges

One note on proper alignment of the cam/crank gears. If you have a helper hold the belt on the crank gear, then pull the belt tightly across the idler, over the right cam gear, and then across the left cam gear, the teeth should be aligned correctly. The problem with going from left to right is that the tensioner will allow as much as two teeth of misalignment between the crank and cams. If everything is pulled tightly across the idler, there is no chance of misalignment.

Though, after a little trial and error, I did find it easier to go from left to right. On my first try, the intake cam was one tooth off both the crank and exhaust cam, but at that point it wasn't too difficult to adjust the one cam by one tooth.
 
Question on a Protege DX with a 1.6

I am thankful for this write-up and at the same time a bit lost. I just picked up an '01 Protege DX 1.6 and am getting ready to tackle this job. I have one question so far:) Is the procedure the same for the 1.6?
 
I am thankful for this write-up and at the same time a bit lost. I just picked up an '01 Protege DX 1.6 and am getting ready to tackle this job. I have one question so far:) Is the procedure the same for the 1.6?

Some of the individual steps are different, but I think the overall process is very similar.
 
Thank you Slavrenz! I feel that because of this writup, I am well equiipped with the knoledge to complete this job. I am also sorry to hear about the complications others, including yourself, have run into along the way. Thank you to all who have contributed to this writup.

Howster
 
Not unless you have someone standing on the brakes. Best way to loosen/tighten the crank bolt is to put it in 5th and have someone mash the brakes while you turn the bolt. As far as locking the crank to keep it from moving while you work, there's no real need. The crank is easy to turn to any position.... it's the cams you want to lock in place before removing the belt. The valve springs tend to make the cams want to "snap" into one of 4 positions. Of course you don't have to lock them, but it makes it easier to get the new belt back on.
 
Do these timing marks look ok or are they facing downward too much?
DSC01427.JPG
 
That looks right. Once you get the belt on and turn the crank a revolution or two, it'll be pretty obvious if you're a tooth off
 
That looks right. Once you get the belt on and turn the crank a revolution or two, it'll be pretty obvious if you're a tooth off

Yea i've rotated the engine a few times and they still meet up like in the pic. I know they don't align perfectly horizontal and that their suppose to be slightly downward. Just wasnt sure if maybe it was one tooth downward too much
 
Here is a better pic without the cover. The cams are in one of the four spots it wants to snap in. Is it fine to put the belt on as is, or do I need to pull those marks up a tad?

DSC01447.JPG
 
Any tips on how to keep the crank lined up? I've had the belt over the cam gears then pulling on over crank, but then when I tighten the tensioner, the crank always moves outta sync. For the tensioner, I remove the bolt. Should I leave it bolted on and just remove the spring?
 
So I am going to tackle this soon as my car has about 97k miles. I'm trying to get a complete list of the parts I need. Let me know if I am missing anything from my list.

timing belt
idler & tensioner + spring
serpentine belts
water pump + gasket
valve cover gasket + RTV silicone
coolant
spark plugs
M8 1.25pitch bolt x2

I'm debating what brands to go with. The idler/tensioner/belt is $220 from mazda, the gates kit is $170, the delco kit + belt is $120 which makes me a little afraid of using it.
 
So I am going to tackle this soon as my car has about 97k miles. I'm trying to get a complete list of the parts I need. Let me know if I am missing anything from my list.

timing belt
idler & tensioner + spring
serpentine belts
water pump + gasket
valve cover gasket + RTV silicone
coolant
spark plugs
M8 1.25pitch bolt x2

I'm debating what brands to go with. The idler/tensioner/belt is $220 from mazda, the gates kit is $170, the delco kit + belt is $120 which makes me a little afraid of using it.

The Gates kit is only $130-140 at RockAuto.com. In fact, that's where you should get all of your parts (except the tensioner spring, I still had to order that from the dealership).

Also replace the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals. They're only a few dollars each, and as has been made known via several recent threats, if they start leaking later on, you have to remove the timing belt and everything else to replace them.

Cheap insurance, IMHO.
 
But how would you test them prior to removing them?

My wallet would be happy if I excluded them from my list but since my car is my dd, I can't afford to find out that I NEED them upon removing them and then have to wait for them to arrive so I can put the car back together.
 
But how would you test them prior to removing them?

My wallet would be happy if I excluded them from my list but since my car is my dd, I can't afford to find out that I NEED them upon removing them and then have to wait for them to arrive so I can put the car back together.

+1

Preventive maintenance is never a bad thing anyways...
 
Yeah, IMO it's worth the extra bit of money to change out the idler/tensioner and be done with it. If rockauto has the Gates kit for $140, that's a great price. And like others have mentioned, you're going to have to go to the dealer for that tensioner spring. I was not able to find it anywhere else. Kinda stupid that they can't put a $3 spring in that $140 kit.... but it is what it is.
 
Thanks for the tip about rockauto, they also have the spring for $3. I'll look into the camshaft/crankshaft seals. Are they difficult? Any how-tos?
 
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