Suspension sounds after lowering spring install (2023 CX-5)

[N7turbo]

Just wanted to know if any of you guys have run into some noises after a lowering spring install and what you did about it. I am using the Corksport springs. We did install adjustable rear camber arms as well.

I am getting two sounds from the rear only. On one side I'm hearing an occasional thud, and on the other I'm hearing a rapid chatter or knocking sound when driving over unsmooth pavement.

Some people I know running lowering springs, if you could chime in with any experience it would be appreciated.

@teddymac
@prix57
@dps03
@Voluntas
@Jef

Thanks.

 

[Silly Wabbit]

Pictures of the install? Are you able to isolate which side?

 

[N7turbo]

Pictures of the install? Are you able to isolate which side?

Both sides. I could try to take some pictures if it would help. Might try to devise a way to record audio. If anyone has ideas on that.

 

[sm1ke]

Did a shop install your springs and camber arms? Sounds most likely to be related to the camber arms since it's coming from the rear only, but that's just a guess.

Are you able to get the rear up on ramps to check that everything is torqued to spec and installed correctly according to CorkSport's instructions? Same for the adjustable camber arms and their instructions. Maybe a step was missed. If you did take it to a shop I would just bring it back and ask them to figure it out.

 

[N7turbo]

Did a shop install your springs and camber arms? Sounds most likely to be related to the camber arms since it's coming from the rear only, but that's just a guess.

Are you able to get the rear up on ramps to check that everything is torqued to spec and installed correctly according to CorkSport's instructions? Same for the adjustable camber arms and their instructions. Maybe a step was missed. If you did take it to a shop I would just bring it back and ask them to figure it out.

Yeah I did--and they used the printed instructions I gave them and torqued everything to spec. I hope it's not the arms because it's a lot of labor to change them again.

We did notice that the plastic shock boot can move around and tap against the shock. I'm just not sure if that's one of the sounds I'm hearing because when I do it by hand it doesn't sound the same.

 

[jadmt]

if you have a gopro mount it underneath and record. I have done that on different vehicles. point it at different angles and eventually you will get what is happening.

 

[N7turbo]

Here are a couple of recordings I made tonight.

I took everything out of the back: the spare tire, the sub, the foam trays, plastic trays, and all of the tools. None of that made any difference, and I didn't think it would, but I needed to rule it out.

I set the phone directly on the foam where the spare tire normally sits. Please let me know what you think this sounds like.

Recorder

recorder.google.com

You'll clearly hear the chatter that comes from the center-left of the car, but I don't think you'll hear the thud sound that comes from the right side of the car and under different conditions. I'll try to get a good recording of that, but you won't hear it through a phone speaker since it's mostly lower frequencies. You would need to put on earbuds or play it through better speakers.

 

[N7turbo]

I just noted that the above sound is much reduced during right turns, and enhanced during left turns. As in, it's most active when the left rear suspension becomes unloaded or less loaded. The recordings were made when driving straight.

 

[AL Cx5]

Bummer! I went through a learning curve when lowering my CX 5 with coilovers. Lowering is lowering, same interference issues regardless.

First, I would double check the springs are in the mounts correctly. The coil fits into a molded fitting at the bottom. If it's not in this fitting it will make noise. I installed a spring incorrectly and it told me so....

Upper and lower shock mounts will make this kind of noise if not torqued correctly as well.

Sway bar links not torqued correctly will clunk as too.

Did you use stock or get adjustable links on the rear. I broke a stock link when I put the rear a Megan rear sway bar on the tightest setting. I bought a set of adjustable BW links. They are have steel sockets vs plastic OEM. Latter I lowered and the links were hitting the frame. I had to shorten the links to avoid them clunking. Look for fresh scratched paint on the links and or frame. Best not to jack up the car to see the interference.

These seem to be sturdy end links. I'll know if 10k mi or so. I have these front and rear so the sway bar is parallel to the ground with the car on the ground. Lowering will change the geometry.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Can you move the upper control arm with your hand or stick a pry bar on it to see if it has a defective bushing or not tightened to spec. These are difficult to get to and may need to be tightened again. The installer should be willing to put a wrench on every bolt if you don't own tools, while you stand by and watch...

Here is an adjustable lower control arm I'm using. Easier to install and adjust. If I make it easier for the tech, I'm more likely to get a better alignment. Install was supper easy. Not what many, if any folks on this forum use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

FWIW, I ended up learning how to do my own installs after going through stuff like the above and much worse. I could write a book on the stuff I paid to be installed and had to fix. So I slowly bought tools and learned...

The final straw, I paid a well respected shop to do an engine swap for me. Latter I found a fuel line crushed under the intake manifold. I was fortunate to find it before it burst and burned my car down.

I'm curious if your front end camber is in spec? Mine was out a couple degrees after lowering it 2" in the front, 2.5" rear. I bought camber bolts for the front to fix this issue.

GOOD LUCK

 

[N7turbo]

First, I would double check the springs are in the mounts correctly. The coil fits into a molded fitting at the bottom. If it's not in this fitting it will make noise.

Upper and lower shock mounts will make this kind of noise if not torqued correctly as well.

Sway bar links not torqued correctly will clunk as too.

I will try to get under the car to check these out.

Did you use stock or get adjustable links on the rear.

Stock end links. I saw Corksport makes them but I haven't found anyone using them so I'm not sure how critical they are.

Can you move the upper control arm with your hand or stick a pry bar on it to see if it has a defective bushing or not tightened to spec. These are difficult to get to and may need to be tightened again.

I did take the car back for tightening. They were able to make some improvement but it's sounding and riding like heck now so something is amiss.

Here is an adjustable lower control arm I'm using. Easier to install and adjust. If I make it easier for the tech, I'm more likely to get a better alignment. Install was supper easy. Not what many, if any folks on this forum use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Those look really different to the ones I'm using: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

I'm curious if your front end camber is in spec? Mine was out a couple degrees after lowering it 2" in the front, 2.5" rear. I bought camber bolts for the front to fix this issue.

I'm not sure, but just looking at the car, the front wheels look pretty straight. The rear looks like it has more camber than the front, even after alignment.

 

[AL Cx5]

Did your alignment shop not give you a before and after sheet? It's pretty common these days.
Were all the numbers in the Green area in the after alignment. Maybe post this sheet?

I don't see anything wrong with replacing the UCA other than being difficult to install and adjust. I have no idea of the quality of the bushings of an eBay part. Often these eBay sellers buy the same part from the same manufacturer in China. Not ALL eBay parts are junk, some are fine but you never know.

A call to Corksport might give you some insight on what and where to check for.

 

[N7turbo]

@AL Cx5 you refer to torquing while the suspension is loaded right?

 

[AL Cx5]

@AL Cx5 you refer to torquing while the suspension is loaded right?

I torque the bolts with the wheels off in handstands.

 

[N7turbo]

I torque the bolts with the wheels off in handstands.

Where is your jack/stand point?

 

[Buzzman12]

Can't help myself, so I gotta ask: why would you lower a CX-5?
It's a grocery getter, a soccer mom SUV. It's not a track car or an off roader. Why spend the time and money?

 

[N7turbo]

It's a grocery getter, a soccer mom SUV. It's not a track car or an off roader.

Exactly. Which is why the factory stance of this car looks so silly and causes unnecessary body roll.

 

[AL Cx5]

Where is your jack/stand point?

The rear, on the body rails. The front, the body rails.

I jack the front up from the knuckle under the front tires and the rear from the differential.

I keep a floor jack on the body rails and diff as a backup, in case a jack stand collapses. Too many people have gotten killed under jack stands.

I change out jack stands every couple of years. These are mass produced in China. Something could let go with me under the car. I dont buy jackstands on price...

 

[AL Cx5]

Can't help myself, so I gotta ask: why would you lower a CX-5?
It's a grocery getter, a soccer mom SUV. It's not a track car or an off roader. Why spend the time and money?

Why do folks race pickup trucks, lift trucks and Jeeps? Personal preference.

If you dont agree, that's just fine and move on.

 

[Antoine]

Why do folks race pickup trucks, lift trucks and Jeeps? Personal preference.

If you dont agree, that's just fine and move on.

Exactly...Now a reminder for everyone, please keep threads friendly, civil, informative and on topic at all times, thank you.

Back to the topic...

 

[bTwix]

Tien spring silencers (two on each corner where contact) - lower spring coils on the rears where they’re more stacked had a good result - I have Eibach pro kit drop.

Hitting all suspension joints (lower control arm etc) with silicon spray lube (not petroleum based) to combat stick/slip.

Tightening the front cowl bolts - 10 or 12 of them IIRC

But that was after I did the usual suspension checks (push/pull the tire and prying) to see if anything was obviously loose/clanking.