Sue Mazda?

Mike R said:
If the screws were put in better the system would be damn near perfect.

Dis, the screw never actually fell out, it was really loose though. Might be the reason all these cars sound rough. If the screws never come all the way out, the plates rattle like crazy. My car got rid of the noise I had been bitching about to the dealer for, well, since the car was a couple months old. Even after they replaced the motor for the rod bearing failure.


They had done at least 2 of the cars with the VICS screws problem....

I completely disagree with you on that. I had 3 out of 5 screws go through the exhaust camshaft (thats why IT WAS ****** UP TOO AND REPLACED) and the other 2, mazda mechanic fished out of cylinder combustion chambers 1 and 3 through the spark plug holes. MY HEAD WAS ****** UP! Thats why head was replaced also! PLATES ARE NOT THE PART THAT MAKES THE RATTLING!!! What makes it rattle is the that small bolt which is IN the combustion chamber! Thats why THAT rattling sound is RPM DEPENDANT. The only reason why your noise stopped is because that small bolt or whatever amount of bolts you lost, actually DID go through the exhaust valve and stuck in the screen at the 1st cat (pre-cat)......take off your 1st cat and you will see that bolt/bolts there.

Mazdamia said:
Must not remove VICS...Must not remove VICS...

I don't think you are supposed to do that are you?
NO DO NOT ATEMPT to delete VICS! VICS is needed. VTCS on the other hand just kills the air flow which I recommend removing.
 
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holy s*** so this is getting crazy. someone said an hour someone said 2.5 hours just to get the manifold off...... you must have run into some problems or somthing.

and can someoen break down the vics and vtcs
 
Chill Dis, I was just stating what happened with mine. I know that most of the time the screws come out and F' up everything.(ie yours) Mine didn't, I noticed the screws were loose after I replaced the intake and was cleaning the original one. In my case, the plates were the rattling that I had heard.

I did the manifold in about 1.5 hours. EGR tube was the worst part.


VICS: Variable Inertia Chamber System (or something) Basically makes the manifold a dual runner, helps top end while keeping the low end power.

VTCS: Variable Tumble Control System: Part of the Ultra Low Emissions system that creates turbulence while the engine temperature is below 149*F To warm the cats up quicker.
 
Mike R said:
Chill Dis, I was just stating what happened with mine. I know that most of the time the screws come out and F' up everything.(ie yours) Mine didn't, I noticed the screws were loose after I replaced the intake and was cleaning the original one. In my case, the plates were the rattling that I had heard.

I did the manifold in about 1.5 hours. EGR tube was the worst part.


VICS: Variable Inertia Chamber System (or something) Basically makes the manifold a dual runner, helps top end while keeping the low end power.

VTCS: Variable Tumble Control System: Part of the Ultra Low Emissions system that creates turbulence while the engine temperature is below 149*F To warm the cats up quicker.
hehe, nah dude, Im not getting excited or anything. Pardon me if I sounded like I was getting loud, definetly wasnt my intention.
Question for you bro, so your bolts didnt come off completely? If so, you cought it at the right moment.

VICS: Variable Intake Charge System, which activates at 5250 rpm to force more air inside the head (cylinder combustion chambers)
and you are correct about VTCS
 
SkinnyJoint said:
holy s*** so this is getting crazy. someone said an hour someone said 2.5 hours just to get the manifold off...... you must have run into some problems or somthing.

No problems. Beer makes me work slower. That and the fact I hadn't disassembled a manifold before and was just doing it by eye. I had to go get a tool from Sears during the disassembly for the damn EGR removal too.
 
DiS said:
hehe, nah dude, Im not getting excited or anything. Pardon me if I sounded like I was getting loud, definetly wasnt my intention.
Question for you bro, so your bolts didnt come off completely? If so, you cought it at the right moment.

VICS: Variable Intake Charge System, which activates at 5250 rpm to force more air inside the head (cylinder combustion chambers)
and you are correct about VTCS


Actually it's Variable Inertia Charging System (from the shop manual) Yeah, I got mine in time, but they had been loose for a loooong time. That reminds me...
 
Aricjm15 said:
a TSB will be out for the Screws soon

I hope so, because when I spoke with lady at Mazda USA in February, she told me that they have received numerous calls regarding this problem but it wasnt enough to make a recall.......WTF!?!?!?
 
the only reason mazda might decide not to come through would be the cost. the vin break would cover practically all 2.0 powered protege's, and the labor to cost to pay the tech's would be crazy too. if they do come through, and I heard that they should be, i will be swimming in intake manifolds to get through my parts department.
 
Aricjm15 said:
the only reason mazda might decide not to come through would be the cost. the vin break would cover practically all 2.0 powered protege's, and the labor to cost to pay the tech's would be crazy too. if they do come through, and I heard that they should be, i will be swimming in intake manifolds to get through my parts department.

"practically all"... but what about the ones made in hiroshima like mine? I thought I was free and clear :'(
 
can anyone suggest or refer a thread on how to remove the intake manifold. i haven't found anything and don't own a service manual. i'd like to have some sort of plan when going in there. i have something similar to what you guys are talking about. i'm taking off the manifold to check the VICS screws and remove the VTCS butterflies while i'm at it. thanks in advance to anyone who can point out a how-to or can provide detailed instructions.
 
bump for a great how-to on the VTCS removal and porting details but I am looking for a how-to on how to physically remove the intake manifold from the engine. I know a few things like unhooking the injectors, fuel rail, and a few other things but bolt locations and good sequence of steps to follow will help a lot. Thanks again.
 
so can i just take my car in to a dealer to have them check for the problem? or do i need it to happen and screw up my engine before the dealer does the fix?

i am in no way mechanicallly able enough to remove and engine part and have a look at it myself.
 
tttP5 said:
so can i just take my car in to a dealer to have them check for the problem? or do i need it to happen and screw up my engine before the dealer does the fix?

i am in no way mechanicallly able enough to remove and engine part and have a look at it myself.
unfortunately they won't just check it for you. it takes a lot of time (in shop time ;) ) just for a "check"... if you're almost sure you have the prob then you could just take it in and try to work out a deal with the service manager about if its broken then they fix if not then you pay them for their trouble... (dunno)

sorry bro
 
PhreakV said:
unfortunately they won't just check it for you. it takes a lot of time (in shop time ;) ) just for a "check"... if you're almost sure you have the prob then you could just take it in and try to work out a deal with the service manager about if its broken then they fix if not then you pay them for their trouble... (dunno)

sorry bro


ok so screws from what are causing the problem? and whatexactly do they do
 
to my understanding and I'm sure DiS or Mike can correct this if its incorrect:

its the screws from the butterfly valves that are part of the VCTS system. here is a pic of the similar sort of system on a Spec-V:
Runners1resize.JPG

its those screws there in the middle of those plates that come loose. those plates 'flutter' back and forth creating turbulence and sort of look a bit like a butterfly (why the name...)
 
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