STX Build Thread

[122 Vega]

I haven't because I still have to swap the springs to fit the rotas. I did weigh it at the Nat Tour and I think it was 2680 with me in it IIRC.

I lost over ten pounds per corner with the AWR coilovers. 13 each in the front and 11 each in the rear.

But I just had to add ten pounds per seat to meet the new rules for 2007.

Britt

 

[dmitrik4]

2680 with driver? that's not bad at all. you're substantially lighter than the WRXs.

 

[evolv]

Hey Britt.. Suspension ? for ya

When I brake, the weight shifts forward and tends to lift the rear of the car, making setup for my next turn and handling difficult, the end result during slaloms is usually a slow slamom or a spin.

I have been playing with the idea of increasing spring rates, without going to coil-overs and wondered if it would be better to increase the front or rear spring rates to keep that back end planted.

 

[low_psi]

If you want to keep one end of the car planted more, you need to increase the rate of the opposite end... so you need more front stiffness in pitch. You have to be careful to not increase it too much or the inside rear will not lift up in roll.

 

[xelderx]

Hey Britt.. Suspension ? for ya

When I brake, the weight shifts forward and tends to lift the rear of the car, making setup for my next turn and handling difficult, the end result during slaloms is usually a slow slamom or a spin.

I have been playing with the idea of increasing spring rates, without going to coil-overs and wondered if it would be better to increase the front or rear spring rates to keep that back end planted.

You can also try a little more rear camber to help the car stay planted in transition. That helped a ton with my setup. Also, remember that you shouldn't be using the brake at all in the middle of a slalom. It's much faster to find a good constant speed through a slalom then to try and gas/brake between every transition. When I run a multi-cone slalom I never touch the brake once I've past the 2nd cone. I'm not sure this is where you are having a problem, but I thought I would throw it out there.

 

[dmitrik4]

Hey Britt.. Suspension ? for ya

When I brake, the weight shifts forward and tends to lift the rear of the car, making setup for my next turn and handling difficult, the end result during slaloms is usually a slow slamom or a spin.

I have been playing with the idea of increasing spring rates, without going to coil-overs and wondered if it would be better to increase the front or rear spring rates to keep that back end planted.

another thing to consider (if possible) is to increase the compression stiffness of your front struts and/or increase the rebound stiffness in the rear. that might slow down the weight transfer enough to help keep the car stable during transitions.

 

[low_psi]

I think he's on non-adjustable shocks, but good advice none-the-less.

 

[Vanimaniac]

I see you're signed up for San Diego tour. Good luck!

Van

 

[122 Vega]

Yea, San Diego seems like it is going to be my first event this year...Tour events ...

I haven't been working on my car much lately, I have been busy working on Nikki's new 1965 Mustang, well, at least when I'm done it'll be new! Waiting on front and rear Wilwood Dynalite brake kits to come in the mail from Summit. I'll post pics of it soon.

I have picked up a few extra parts for the Mazda recently, a complete MSP engine and LSD trans and drive axles. Getting ready to start tearing down the motor and send the block out for the overbore. Then the trans is coming apart for a Quaife to go in.

My shorter springs are on terminal backorder it seems, they are supposed to be here next week. For now I'm taking the car apart again. Taking the strut housings down to get them rewelded and powdercoated and installing the Oddessy battery. Then I have to put my seats back in. Then it'll be back to the dyno to try and tune the AFC a little more, with the pulleys on I hope to break 200tq. I may try to get the front big brakes on before the Tour, but it might not happen.

Britt

 

[122 Vega]

Oh yeah, have to service my trailer, install the Hawk brake pads and ss brakelines on my Dakota, put in the rear air bags and Bilstein shocks and...maybe new wheels and tires.

So I have a few things to do before the Tour, and it's only what five weeks away?

Britt

 

[Shadow102]

But I just had to add ten pounds per seat to meet the new rules for 2007.

Britt

i havent read through the rules for this year yet but whats the deal with that?

 

[aMaff]

i havent read through the rules for this year yet but whats the deal with that?

To keep people honest with how the seats are mounted (ex. a velcro'd down passenger seat), the rule is something to the effect of 25lbs per seat including mounting hardware (sliders, brackets, etc)

 

[Vanimaniac]

2680 lbs with driver and 200tq. I like how that sounds. At Nationals last year, my brother and I ran our 1986 Corolla in STX. We were around 2500 lbs with driver and maybe 90wtq!! (screwy) Needless to say, we didn't scare many guys out there. I did manage to beat a Mazdaspeed Protege though! (bump)

Looks like you've got a lot of work ahead of ya. Good luck with all that. Kinda why I've decided to run Stock class this season.

Van

 

[503MSP]

Damn the more I read up the more I want to start autox... time and money are things that I dont have to get started though...let me know when you have a local competition britt... i dont mind checking it out.

 

[Shadow102]

Damn the more I read up the more I want to start autox... time and money are things that I dont have to get started though...let me know when you have a local competition britt... i dont mind checking it out.

why not just go out and do it with the way the car sits?

 

[122 Vega]

Yeah, just come out and run the car stock, I did the first year I owned it and beat all the local WRXs in STX. I was on the original tires even. Don't worry about winning, just go out and have fun...

the new seat rule is suppose to force safe seat mounting, but the way it's worded you can still velcro your seat down but you have to duct tape 10 pounds of pennies to the seat. As long as the velcro touches the factory seat mounting locations, you're good to go. Seems like I was the only one against this new rule. I wanted to see Tech responsible for deciding if a seat is mounted securely, but they apparently only care about batteries and wheels bearings and throttle cable springs.

But I shouldn't get started again, there are about two pages in this thread with me bitching about it already...

Britt

 

[Shadow102]

But I shouldn't get started again, there are about two pages in this thread with me bitching about it already...

Britt

ohh trust me i can go right with you on that one. There are a couple rules that just make no sense to me

 

[gavin_leslie]

Actually the rule wasnt so much to enforce safe mounting of seats, It was a way to not punish/penalize those who did mount their seats in a safe and secure manner. Its a slight shift in perspective, but I think it becomes a lot clearer as to the direction the writers of this rule took.

The change is written to address the perceived advantage of a velcroed seat which is ... weight. Get rid of the perceived advantage and everyone has an equal handicap.(an secondary result may be that seats get mounted better). One could use velcro and 15lbs of nickels...but wheres the advantage to that? Leave them to the hounds of tech.

See you signed up for Atwater as well. If things dont get strange(or we get grouped together) I hope to make it over and make introductions.

EDIT:speeling

Gavin

 

[503MSP]

Yea, I was thinking of running my car in the stock class...I still have to read the rules and regulations before I make any kind of decisions and actually do it since this car is my daily driver and if anythign breaks... i'm pretty much screwed..

 

[Shadow102]

Yea, I was thinking of running my car in the stock class...I still have to read the rules and regulations before I make any kind of decisions and actually do it since this car is my daily driver and if anythign breaks... i'm pretty much screwed..

i will tell you the same thing i was told. If it is going to break on the auto-x course there is a very likly chance the part would break during normal driving anyway it may have just taken a little longer. As long as you have your normal matienence done and have your fuilds all topped off there shouldnt be much problem. Also what would rather have happen: the car break somewhere in the middle of no where or someplace that just about everybody knows how to fix a car, has parts, and somebody might even be willing to give you a free tow home.