- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
thats a nice car 
I'd stick to what you said, do what you can N/A and make it handle like a gocart
I'd stick to what you said, do what you can N/A and make it handle like a gocart 
So I want to buy an RX-7...
- Thread starter magnumP5
- Start date
That's the idea!thats a nice car
So interesting news. The fiance' went to move the car today (first time in a week) and she said it started just fine, went up tp 3000 RPM for a few seconds and then slowly came down and stalled out. According to her the clutch was in and it was in 1st gear and it died when she went to put it into neutral. So either she accidentally came off the clutch, which seems unlikely as she'd noticed the huge LURCH, or the car stalled out on its own. However, she immediately restarted it and it caught and stayed just fine - thank GOD it didn't flood! Now my old pickup (which was 23 years old) rarely started on the first try, but once it caught it always held on. I'm just curious as to why it would do everything it was supposed to and just not hold idle, then restart and idle just fine when attempted again. Argh, it sucks that I don't have this! At least she didn't stall it out and she let it warm up before shutting it down.
EDIT: According to her it idled for approximately 5-10 seconds before dying although she isn't sure - WTF?
Last edited:
I know mine does that but it hates cold idle due to having my vdi wedged open.
I could be a couple things possible thermowax issue is the first that comes to mind. I hate to say it but without you being there and exactly seeing what happened its hard to tell the problem. Could have just been a fluke where it missed grabbing the idle.
I could be a couple things possible thermowax issue is the first that comes to mind. I hate to say it but without you being there and exactly seeing what happened its hard to tell the problem. Could have just been a fluke where it missed grabbing the idle.
So I've been thinking about ITB's - that would certainly solve the issue of needing the air pump for VDI and 6PI, right? LOL! But seriously, Tweakit Performance has what looks to be everything needed. ITB's, intake manifold, injectors, etc. Obviously for this setup I would need a standalone, but since I was pretty much set on getting one for the Protege it doesn't seem like a bad option. Especially now as I can pick up an older Haltech E6X for less than $1000. I'm just curious if anyone has any opinions on the matter. I see it as a win-win. I get to remove the air pump and ACV getting rid of the rat's nest completely, more power and better throttle response from the ITB's and the benefit of a standalone. TWM induction also makes ITB's as does Racing Beat make an intake manifold (really it's just a manifold for a Weber Carb) but the Tweakit kit is less expensive and includes more.
Yeah, there are a couple kits out there but it isn't something I've seen often in S5's. I haven't seen too much on superchargers either though a roots style supercharger with ITB's would be pretty sweet. It'd be like old-school muscle car meets rotary. The ITB's themselves probably aren't much, if any performance improvement but when combined with a standalone ECU, aggressive street port and full exhaust I imagine it adds up quite a bit. I am still liking the idea of being able to do away with the air pump, ACV, VDI and 6PI. I'm assuming the VDI and 6PI are things that would go away with the intake manifold?
That's what I meant - the 6 ports are still there but nothing is opening/closing. So I've been piecing together a kit; the big stuff is easy: ITB's, IM, ECU but the smaller things are what are confusing me. Lines and fittings, what ECU sensors (TPS, water temp, etc.) are needed, injector sizes? I imagine I will have to go with an aftermarket FPR and an idle stepper motor with control as well and I suppose there really won't be a primary/secondary fuel rail system anymore either. I'll probably just email Tweakit and see if they can't help me out and piece everything together. This will easily be a $3k+ setup but will no doubt be worth it. Another idea I've been tossing around is lightweight rotors and aluminum housings but those are crazy expensive (they would put a replacement engine upwards of $10k)! So right now the mod work is planned as follows (in no particular order):
ITB Setup (TB's, IM, Fuel Rails, etc.)
CS Header + CS Cat Delete Pipe + Apexi N1 Dual or Racing Beat True Dual Exhaust
Rebuild + Aggressive Streetport
Racing Beat Aluminum Flywheel and Counter Weight
Mazdatrix Aluminnum Driveshaft
PWR/Koyo Racing Aluminum Radiator
Racing Beat or Mazdatrix Oil Pan Baffle
Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 ECU
CS, Racing Beat or Mazdatrix Short Shifter
BC Racing Coilovers
Racing Beat Swaybar Kit
CS, Racing Beat or Mazdatrix Toe-steer Eliminators
Mazdatrix Strut Tower Bar
Torsen Rear LSD
Mazda Competition Mount Set
Energy Urethane Suspension Bushing Kit
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
Enkei RPF1 Wheels
Sparco Torino II Seats
Air Pump, ACV Removal
De-power Steering Rack
AEM Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM Oil Temperature Gauge
AEM Wideband O2 Gauge and Sensor
StopTech Slotted Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
CS, Racing Beat or Mazdatrix SS Break Lines
CS, Racing Beat or Mazdatrix SS Clutch Line
CS, Racing Beat or Mazdatrix Oil Cooler Lines
PWR Oil Cooler
FPR
Fuel Pump
Injectors
WHEW, all that and hopefully I will have a reliable and drivable RX-7 with around 225 whp that is fairly unique and will sound BADASS!
Last edited:
Such as? I hadn't planned on doing anything to the transmission itself. Just clutch, flywheel, driveshaft and rear differential. I read in your thread about swapping in some MX-5 gears for a lower ratio and that thought has crossed my mind. I don't see myself going balls out for top speed so I may consider this as I value acceleration more. However, I am not going to want to be cruising at high RPM when going 70-75 mph as the noise is probably going to make my ears bleed considering the mods I'm planning.
5th gear can always be swapped back out to the rx7 5th. But you have the option of the mx5 set, 626 rwd set, awr makes a gearset (awr has a rx7 section). And since your sticking with a na rear there is always the 4.3 rear end swap.
Check solomiata.com and mazdatrix has a write up as well
Got it.
So one thing has been buggin me. Is the 6PI actuation in the intake manifold or is it part of the housing? Everything I have been considering is banking on the fact that by switching to a IDA intake manifold I will be removing the 6PI actuation altogether and that the 5th/6th ports will always remain open. I've been looking into this Tweakit ITB setup for quite some time and I'm trying to put everything together. Aside from the kit (with TPS mod and vacuum "channel") I have to source at least the ECU, fuel lines, FPR and injectors. However, I am trying to determine what else will be needed. Because I plan on keeping A/C would a stepper motor be needed? I'm debating on just asking Tweakit but I'm always hesitant to ask vendors what I "need" as I'm sure they will always say I "need" more than I really do. This seems really feasible so I think I'm going to go for it. Most likely I will first fix the current issues with the car, then do the rebuild/street port, then move onto the ITB's with standalone. I just hope the stock computer can keep up with an agressive streetport for a while.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
the 5th and 6th ports are in the Lower intake manifold.
The actuators are in the lower intake manifold, the sleeves for the 6pi are in the engine itself. You would just have to rotate the sleeve so its open.
It can't hurt to ask tweakit what you need then compare it against other information your can gather. At least you can get yourself an idea of the max amount of stuff you will need.
Not sure if the stock ecu will be able to keep up or not but you can always pick up a cheap apexi safc to add more fuel or dial in your injectors.
Ohh and for the itb setup you can still run a primary and secondary rail as one set sits directly on the housing. I want to say pineapple racing makes block offs for those if you decide not to run them.
Ah, I see - so how does one "pin" the sleeves open? I'd really like to do the ITB's and street port at the same time and just go with the ECU then. As for the injectors, I'll probably go with four 440cc high impedance units in the ITB housing and block off the rail on the housing (I forget which one that is). I don't know if Pineapple sells the block-offs but I know Racing Beat does. With the Haltech I should be able to progressively run the injectors. From reading on RX7Club several people seem to have success with Emanage, however. I'll try to get in touch with Tweakit sometime soon and I'll also probably give RX7store a call and see if they have any experience tuning this sort of thing (ITB's on a 6-port N/A motor). They are only 1.5 hours up the road after all...
Gah! All this planning and I don't even have the car
