safest way for 200whp

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Yellow 2003.5 MSP!
I want to modify just a little for around 200hp.

Heres what i want to get:
SLS J-midpipe
upraded SMIC
intake manifold (maybe)
Carbon fiber hood for wieght reduction and a sick ass look.
and of course a good tune (anyone know where to get one?)

Has anyone had or heard of bad experiences with these things (i.e. WGA going out, rods or pistons going bad, am i gunna need a new cams, fuel pump injectors, engine managment?)

With those mods, what else should i do to keep my car strudy and reliable?

what do you guys think is the safest way to make 200whp?

And what about the pulley? What if i get the lightwieght crank, waterpump and altenator pullies from PG? How much power would
that add?

I need a good solid and safe way to make bigger power. I feel like my brain is gunna throw a rod thinking about all the diffrent routes.
 
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smic/fmic, intake, j-pipe back exhaust, ssafc, 10psi. should get you 200 whp
 
^^^ thats about it.
make sure you do normal car maintance... Spark plugs, Oils etc and you should be good.
 
SMIC upgrade, motor mounts, millenia PCV, midpipe and cat back exhaust, definitely... SSAFC or the AEM FIC would be wise as well. you might get there without it at 9-10 psi but you should really get a piggyback to get the most out of it.
 
Here is what I got...

Hiboost FMIC kit, GHL 3'' TBE, Injen CAI, 440cc inj., Upgraded fuel pump, Megasquirt piggyback AFC, AEM EBC, and stock turbo @ 12psi.

On the Dyno I put 220 to the wheels and it feels like a COMPLETELY different car!

When you upgrade some things you need to think about the future, cause when you get to 200whp, TRUST ME, you are gonna want more!

I would highly recommend the AEM FIC. It will work on our cars and allows room to expand latter. And for safety you better invest in an AEM wideband AFR gauge.

Just my two cents...
 
I'm at 200whp with just the Vibrant, Motor Mounts, Flywheel, and K&N drop in at 10psi. It might not work for everyone but it did for me. With me inducing a spike to 14psi then settling to 10psi the car made 200whp and 242wtq this past march. Not safe to drive every day on the street with the spike but at 10psi you might be all right.
 
Go with the AEM FIC. TRUST ME. I had the SSAFC. NOT IMPRESSED AT ALL. The AEM FIC (Fuel and Ignition Controller) lets you control your fuel map and your timing. The fuel map resolution is way better on the AEM FIC and the quality you get with AEM is superb. Think that they are about the same price also. SO do you want to control just fuel or fuel and timing for about the same price?
 
fuel and retard timing. its not really controlling timing, just retarding the signal. its far and away a better value, a better unit, and just generally better all-around, but the SSAFC has better support on the forums. theres probably less than a dozen that run the AEM on here.
 
210/212 were my numbers last week
mods- injen cai converted to sri, turbolife fmic, sls 2.5 inch catted midpipe, thermal catback, mail tuned unichip and 8.5 psi on 91 octane

curious to see what id run w/o the unichip on
 
I'm at 200whp with just the Vibrant, Motor Mounts, Flywheel, and K&N drop in at 10psi. It might not work for everyone but it did for me. With me inducing a spike to 14psi then settling to 10psi the car made 200whp and 242wtq this past march. Not safe to drive every day on the street with the spike but at 10psi you might be all right.

I seen your motor its a freak of nature lol
 
Thanks guys, but isnt 10psi kinda risky with only minimal mods?

I think im gunna go SMIC, J-midpipe, and K&N drop in filter and maybe the pullies.
Do you guys think i can run 8psi and these mods with a good tune and I wont Zoom Zoom Boom?

Whats the benefit of upgrading your flywheel?

Do i still need an AFC or a FIC if i get a good tune?

What is the difference between the unichip and an AFC and a FIC?

Im sorry for all the questions guys but i do appreciate the help. Thanks everybody.
 
Thanks guys, but isnt 10psi kinda risky with only minimal mods? generally a FMIC and tune is recommended to run 10psi, but you can get away with a nice SMIC upgrade.

I think im gunna go SMIC, J-midpipe, and K&N drop in filter and maybe the pullies.
Do you guys think i can run 8psi and these mods with a good tune and I wont Zoom Zoom Boom? probably, but i think you misunderstand what you need for a tune... aside from that, its well-situated for 8psi. i would do a millenia PCV for all of 18 dollars for some turbo insurance, i generally push for a turbo timer as well.

Whats the benefit of upgrading your flywheel? mainly, the engine drops revs faster. this is a pro and con - it lets you shift much faster but it kind of forces you to... no lazy shifts with a lightened flywheel. i cant wait for mine, but some people say they regret the decision if its a DD.

Do i still need an AFC or a FIC if i get a good tune? yes, because your tune is held by the AFC or FIC. the stock ECU cannot be tuned. so its kind of a bad question.

What is the difference between the unichip and an AFC and a FIC? unichip advances timing, the other two cannot. you cannot tune it yourself - only a dealer can tune it and flash the unit. the AFC can only do fuel, no ignition, unless you go to FTC which can retard timing. both are made by split second. they are user tunable and are the most popular piggybacks around here. the FIC (AEM) is also user tunable, fuel and retard timing. its cheap but has less support. its generally a better unit for less money, but some people still have kinks in the install.

Im sorry for all the questions guys but i do appreciate the help. Thanks everybody.
 
10 Psi on Hi-Boost Kit ?

(jacked)

i have a 2002 mp5 with a hiboost turbokit.. fmic from the kit there , the upgrade for the intake that goes over the valve cover , racing beat catback , test pipe 2.5" , gutted intake ( removed the variable intake flaps and ported the whole thing ) polished head ports , haltech F10 and thats prettymuch it i think.

my question is ... is it safe to drive 10psi occasionnally ... on stock internals ... 1-2 times a week? (dunno)
right now the WGA is set at 7psi .. i have a boost controler and a TT both greddy. i dont know how to make em work ... TT is all connected and its not workn ... but lets not talk about this here.

sorry for Thread Jacking but it seems like the place to post to get my answer.
thanks all.

p.s. i just rebuilt the engine with new crank bearings , connecting rods bearings , rings , headgasket and so on. the motors broke in already.
 
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well i dont have my EGT hooked up yet and the a/f is steaedy around 14.7.... at one sertain place its going aroind 16-16.5 ... under boost im getting 10.5-11(the haltech programe wasnt workn proprelly last time i tuned it ... wasnt showing any numbers at all so we kinda tuned it blindfolded ... ) but im staying away from that dangerous zone and im not planning on rasing the boost until i get that fixed.
thx for the fast replu JCell
 
i take it 14.7 is idle? and 10.5 is WOT?

thats pretty good, next time u get a chance put it on a dyno and see the power curve. 200-220 WHP is pretty much the limit on our engines, and IIRC the hi boost kit uses a K series turbo? a lil bigger so it moves more air at the same PSI.
 
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