Rust fixing advice

nightqq

Member
:
Mazda P5 2003
So I've grinded away some rust and put some rust check fiberglass body filler on it. I've sanded it with 180 and 600 grit.

Questions:
1. When I run my fingers across, it's very smooth but I can feel that it's not leveled. Is this because I'm sanding by hand? How can I fix this?

2. Do I need filler primer or just primer?

3. Do I start using 1000+ grit sandpaper at this point or after i spray on primer?

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1). Jumping from 180 to 600 grit may be part of the problem. You may do better if you follow a progression of 180>220>400>600 and so on. Be sure to use a sanding block, as hand sanding can create low spots where your fingers are placing more pressure on the sand paper.

2). It will depend on how the filler is looking. You can use glazing putty or filler primer if things are still a little rough once you've fully sanded the area. A light coat may help to level any micro-scratches.

3). The primer will probably need more bite than the 1000 grit will offer. I wouldn't do more than 400-600 if you're going with the filler primer. Save the 1000+ for smoothing out the primer.
 
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1). Jumping from 180 to 600 grit may be part of the problem. You may do better if you follow a progression of 180>220>400>600 and so on. Be sure to use a sanding block, as hand sanding can create low spots where you're fingers are placing more pressure on the sand paper.

2). It will depend on how the filler is looking. You can use glazing putty or filler primer if things are still a little rough once you've fully sanded the area. A light coat may help to level any micro-scratches.

3). The primer will probably need more bite than the 1000 grit will offer. I wouldn't do more than 400-600 if you're going with the filler primer. Save the 1000+ for smoothing out the primer.

Definitely good advice, Remember prep work makes paint work look 10000xs better so just take your time and be a little bit anal!
 
If you're battling rust then I'd suggest getting to the backside of the repair when you're done and cover it with rust protection... Even spreading grease all over the whole area.

A lot of guys had great looking repairs just to have it comeback in a year or two.

Every bit helps... Our cars love to rust...
 
Ty everyone. all very helpful. I got more different grit sandpaper today and added another layer of filler on to try to level it again. It worked great and I think the problem was that I wasn't putting even pressure on the sanding block the first time. Thanks!

If you're battling rust then I'd suggest getting to the backside of the repair when you're done and cover it with rust protection... Even spreading grease all over the whole area.

A lot of guys had great looking repairs just to have it comeback in a year or two.

Every bit helps... Our cars love to rust...

Good tip. Do you know where I can find out how to remove the inner black panel and the spoiler on the hatchback?
 
so, I have it sanded down smooth and even. Would you guys recommend that I strip the rest of the panel and prime and paint the whole thing or just feather into the old paint?
 
Ultimately it's your call depending on your comfort level/skill. A blended panel will only look good if you're able to feather the paint properly. You'll definitely want to get some blending compound (I think you can find it in an aerosol now) if that's the route you take.

On the other hand, I don't think you'd need to completely strip the entire panel to paint it. Fresh paint actually sticks to factory paint really well most of the time once you've scuffed through the clear. However, with an entire panel you always run the risk of the paint not matching the rest of the body 100%. It wont be as noticeable on a hatch, but it is a possibility.
 
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