* Read this before you buy new rotors! *

B

bill42

Member
:
CX-9 GT
This is going to be the most useful thread you ever read.
There are others who have said this first, and I only learned this trick today.
What I just learned not 30 minutes before writing this post, is that every single person on this forum who is talking about how they replaced their rotors because they were warped was wrong, and they wasted their precious time and money and they threw away totally good rotors.
I was just about to do the same thing when I read this man's post:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Front-Rotors&p=5230475&viewfull=1#post5230475

I do not know him, and this is not his trick as he quotes an article of this procedure, and there are others who seem to know this black magic.
SO if you are coming here to look for info on swapping you warped rotors for a set of new ones, STOP! Read the link. Do what he says. Trust me, my rotors were shuddering and stuttering worse than yours are. Slowing my car down at every light felt like I was in a space capsule reentering earth's atmosphere. And I continued driving like this for over 20,000 miles! So I had to do the procedure 8 times instead of 6.
But today, my friends, I feel reborn! I love my CX-9 again, for now it drives the way it did when it was brand new! Even though I have original rotors and brake pads at 40,700 miles. Even better, it took me 5 minutes, not 3 hours, and it cost me nothing! (except some gas and some brake pad wear)
Please help spread the word!
I know I sound like a religious nut, and to tell you the truth, as a life time Atheist, I think I just had my first religious experience. Just 2 days before the world ends this saturday.
 
I'm a believer, is there some money I can send to some guy in Nigeria that needs to cash my million dollars? Oh wait it will be 21 may tomorrow and I will have no need of money as the rapture is near. I too have original engine oil at 56K and it looks like golden honey!!!!

Give me a break dude. I brought me car to two mechanics that showed me how my rotors were warped. More than likely to the dealership over tightening the lugs. I have over 30K on my replacement rotors and have not had to do any "bedding" BS.
 
This is exactly the type of reply that I expected.. indeed, wanted!
I shall save your soul, Lindyrect!!!! You have been tempted by the devil disguised as 2 different mechanics who took your money happily.
Hey, I said I was skeptical. But as you can see by my avatar, my CX-9 is covered in snow so I don't live in Nigeria.
I know you have the need to try to prove to yourself that you didn't waste your money, but your old rotors were fine, I am 99% sure.
And for any others reading this, I simply ask, what have you got to lose? If I am scamming you that I did not fix my problem last night and my rotors are now almost totally smooth, what is my motive? Do I make money off this?
I know others will be as skeptical as you are. Some will be too scared to even try it. But some will, and they will help me spread the word, that everything we ever were taught about rotors was a lie. Especially over tightening lug nuts that is a good one!!!
 
I cringe everytime I hear someone talking about "warped" rotors. OP's proselytizing aside, most (performance) brake pads have bedding instructions on the box. Of course, if you're taking your car to a mechanic for a brake job, I'm guessing you didn't see the box...
 
Good word, proselytizing! My religious moment is over now. It was the combination of learning something that was drastically different than what I thought I knew all along, and the fun theme of the world ending today as predicted by religious nuts here in the US helped me along. But today is saturday and we are all still here, and more importantly, my brakes are still not warped. Mysleeper makes a good point. I have been changing brake pads since the 1980s (and shoes) and the box always give directions on how to bed the brakes. I would always follow the instructions, but I had no idea this was so important at all.
My question to those in the know is, how long will my rotors last now before I have to repeat this bedding process? Will it be the same 20k or so miles that it took when I bought the car until they started shuddering?
 
I don't think it's really possible to predict when or if they will need re-bedded. My wife's car was having shimmy issues ('04 Volvo S60 @110,000 miles) and I was able to rebed them just by doing a series of 70mph to 20 mph stops (5 IIRC); end of shimmy.

And I knew where you were going with the revival tent theme, and I appreciated it. And (as an atheist) proselytizing is one of my favorite words, and I had the chance to use it, no offense intended.
 
I just haven't had the time to try the bedding procedure, and the closest stretch of 55mph highway is in "corrupt cop zone" so I'm a little scared to try it, but I think that it does sound like its the real deal, deffinately would try this before putting on new rotors. To think of all the rotors I've put on in the past.... grrrr.
 
clouds-jesus.jpg
 
Seriously read this

Yes, this works, had a shudder, and a slight squeak going on, did this last night, brakes smooth, and havent heard a peep. Now hearing all other sorts of noises though, lol...
 
+1.
I wish I had at least attempted this on my 9 before spending the $$ on new brake pads and rotors.
My wife's Explorer had a bad pulsation that could be felt in the brake pedal and the steering wheel when stopping. Last week I decided to try the procedure described above before looking into replacing the rotors. I got on the highway and did a series of about 6 or 7 - 75 to 40 MPH braking maneuvers. We now have no pulsation at all.

When I replaced the front rotors on my 9 a few months ago, I pulled off the rotors and just scratched my head - how the hell can this heavy thick metal warp? I'm now a believer that the term 'warped rotors' is a bunch of crap....at least in most cases.

If anyone is having the issue, do yourself a favor and at least try this before investing in new rotors. You might be pleasantly surprised to find that you just saved yourself some cash. As I've read, you do run the risk of 'cooking' the brake fluid, but flushing new brake fluid is certainly a lot less costly than new rotors, especially if you're able to do them yourself.
 
At this time, I am going to go ahead and warn everyone against doing this. When I get my 9 back from the dealer, I will let you know why. (guessing motor mounts, axle shaft, wheel bearing, either all of them or at least 2 of the 3).
 
Not sure where you are going with this^. So, your stealership is telling you that bedding your pads burned up a bearing?
 
helbigtw said:
At this time, I am going to go ahead and warn everyone against doing this. When I get my 9 back from the dealer, I will let you know why. (guessing motor mounts, axle shaft, wheel bearing, either all of them or at least 2 of the 3).
Click to expand...

I can't imagine why braking would have any effect on those components. It's not like this 'procedure' is doing much beyond what a typical trip down Mt. Washington might do....unless you attempt to brake at 80 MPH while attempting a hair-pin turn....?
 
immediately after the procedure.. now when pressing the accellerator after moderate braking, there is a loud "pop" noise coming either from the motor mounts, the half shaft(s) or the trans, the pop noise is right when I press the accellerator. Also, while coasting, a loud grinding/scraping/bad noise coming from right front which seems to me to be the half shaft. (it is not the brakes as I have confirmed lots of meat left on both sides of the pads) Either way, this is why I am saying this procedure should be avoided, at least with this vehicle. We will see what the dealer says.
 
I understand your concern but the bedding procedure is not new. It was in the instructions for my Axxis/PBR pads and I've also heard that it is on other aftermarket brands. The procedure calls for a series of sudden stops from 40mph to a roll which is just like if you were doing a quick stop to avoid hitting something. I've been doing this for many years now with my previous cars(no CX9s) with no issues. I have attempted doing this on the CX9 but I find it hard to believe that sudden stops would cause damage. I've done a few sudden stops during the time we've had the CX9 but there's not been any issues.

I'm curious to hear what damage your dealer finds and what he has to say.
 
Ok so I took it to the stealership yesterday thinking it was a half shaft/bearing/trans or something bad. The stealer took my pads out and are saying the scraping noise is coming from the pads as it appears the pads were "extremely heated up" which "damaged" them, according to the dealer. The pads look like someone took a cheese grater to them along with a chisel to parts of the pad. Now I have replaced 7 or 8 sets of rotors & pads on various vehicles. The only "scraping" noise I have ever heard is from bare pads down to the metal, or the rear pads with the wear indicator which scrapes the rotor once the rear pads get down to a certain thickness. I have had cars with ceramic pads before. I have never heard the actual material on the pads cause a loud scraping & metallic noise that sounds like a bad half shaft. Now I hope this is all that the problem is, but like I said, I've never heard of this or experienced anything like this noise on any other car. Regarding the popping/clunking noise immediately when accellerating from a stop, the dealer says this is from the brake hardware kit "adjusting." (it never did this before this bedding incident).
So, the dealer wanted like 250 to resurface the rotors and replace the front pads with oem pads. I said no, paid them their 50 bucks and left (50 bucks to diagnose the issue and put a bunch more paint chips near the bolt holes in the wheels due to lazy mechanics with impact wrenches).
So I went ahead and ordered Centric premium coated rotors with Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads for $183.00 shipped.
Once I put those on, I will be VERY interested to see if the noise goes away, and to see if the accelleration clunking goes away.
I am very mechanically inclined, and if the pads were solely causing this issue, I can add this to my mechanical library of knowledge, cuz this is deffinately a first that I have ever heard of. ( I still have my doubts)
 
Wow only $250 to resurface. The stealership I went to in Laurel MD tried to charge me $750 to replace rotors and pads or $550 to resurface the rotors and replace pads.
 
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