Protege KLUNK FIX !!

[LE-FLO]

Hello ..

I know it's an old problem but never had the problem until now...I have suddently the KLUNK from the back of my protegespeed 2003.5... can somebody help me find these brackets to fix this please ...thanks for help !!

 

[pomidor]

Once in a while, there is Group-Buy offered for the Clunk/Klunk Fix. "pw~mp5" (User on this forum) offered it when I bought it about 1.5 years ago. I saw another Group Buy being offered since then, but it's been a while so it's probably done by now. Try PM'ing 'pw~mp5', maybe he's planning another GB, or has a kit left over he can sell you.

From what I understand, the Clunk-Fix doesn't get rid of the Clunk. It prevents it (or "delays it" - would be more accurate) from happening *again* after you've fixed the problem.

Replacing your end-links gets rid of the Clunk noise. Installing the Clunk-fix reduces the sway-bar bending, thus reducing the stress on end-links, thus preventing (somewhat) the Clunk from coming back. So after you get the Clunk-fix (if you can find the kit), you'll still need to replace the end-links. Also, you should replace your sway-bar bushings with polyurethane ones too. The bending of the sway-bar, wears off the bushings too. Worn off bushing = squeaky sound. Polyurethane bushings will last longer then sh!ty OEM Mazda ones.

Before the Clunk Fix, my bushings would last for about 3 months (tops). Sway-Bar End-links, maybe 6 months. After the clunk-fix was installed, my end-links are still holding (Yes, I replaced them when I put in the Clunk-fix). My [polyurethane] bushings (Yes, I replaced them too when I put in the Clunk-fix) are noisy now, but they have lasted much longer then the 3 months that they used to last for (before the Clunk-fix).

 

[jdwk]

I just have urethane bushings. Car is lowered with Tokico HPK. Original rear end links are still good after 77k miles. I don't think the clunk fix is necessary if you get urethane bushings.

The urethane bushings do start squeaking faster than the rubber ones. Lube only lasts about 3 mos on them. Next time I'll try wrapping the bar in teflon tape as was suggested on here a while back.

 

[jeremy irons]

which urethan bushings do you use? the MSP sway bar is supposed to be 20mm, but I have heard it's best to use 19mm bushings?

 

[jdwk]

I bought the ones that Crossover auto carries. They are 20mm. Been on the car about 15 months now.

 

[LE-FLO]

I think i left the OEM end links in the back cause the where still OK but changed the ones in front..and i changed my sway bar bushings in the back for GREASABLE ones..i have no noise from that...but the damn klunk is there... i will change the end-links then and will see ...thanks

 

[jdwk]

From my understanding and I've done quite a bit of bushing and end link replacing, the "clunk" is the sway bar shifting in the worn bushings. It is a deep tone as the thick metal sway bar goes from being wedged in one corner of the bracket to the other.

When endlinks go bad they don't clunk, they tend to click. The ball joint fails and the ball makes noise as it pops in and out of the socket, but it is a much higher pitched "lighter" sound.

I suppose they could also freeze which would most likely cause your bushings to fail very quickly, but I would only expect that to happen if the car sat for a long period of time. I would raise the rear of the car and take off the wheels, then use a jack to load and unload the rear suspension one side at a time to make sure the endlinks are operating correctly.

You can also just take off the endlinks, but I know from living in colder climates that can be easier said than done.

I am not sure what you mean by greasable, you can put grease on anything. If they are rubber and they are more than 3 months old, they could be toast already, especially if your car is lowered. Buy urethane bushings, they aren't very expensive.