Protege 5 Trade-In Value
- Thread starter MP5s Make Ready
- Start date
Check this out!
http://www.sunnysideusedcars.com/en_US/
2003 Mazda Protege PR5
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=standardSection id=vehInfoContainer vAlign=top>Price: $16,385
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR id=milesRow><TD class=label id=milesLabel>Mileage:</TD><TD class=value id=milesValue>44,781 </TD></TR><TR id=engineRow><TD class=label id=engineLabel>Engine:</TD><TD class=value id=engineValue>2.0L 4 cyl Fuel Injection </TD></TR><TR id=exteriorRow><TD class=label id=exteriorLabel>Exterior:</TD><TD class=value id=exteriorValue> </TD></TR><TR id=interiorRow><TD class=label id=interiorLabel>Interior:</TD><TD class=value id=interiorValue> </TD></TR><TR id=stockRow><TD class=label id=stockLabel>Stock Number:</TD><TD class=value id=stockValue>P3910 </TD></TR><TR id=vinRow><TD class=label id=vinLabel>VIN:</TD><TD class=value id=vinValue>JM1BJ245731165503</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
http://www.sunnysideusedcars.com/en_US/
2003 Mazda Protege PR5
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=standardSection id=vehInfoContainer vAlign=top>Price: $16,385
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR id=milesRow><TD class=label id=milesLabel>Mileage:</TD><TD class=value id=milesValue>44,781 </TD></TR><TR id=engineRow><TD class=label id=engineLabel>Engine:</TD><TD class=value id=engineValue>2.0L 4 cyl Fuel Injection </TD></TR><TR id=exteriorRow><TD class=label id=exteriorLabel>Exterior:</TD><TD class=value id=exteriorValue> </TD></TR><TR id=interiorRow><TD class=label id=interiorLabel>Interior:</TD><TD class=value id=interiorValue> </TD></TR><TR id=stockRow><TD class=label id=stockLabel>Stock Number:</TD><TD class=value id=stockValue>P3910 </TD></TR><TR id=vinRow><TD class=label id=vinLabel>VIN:</TD><TD class=value id=vinValue>JM1BJ245731165503</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
chuyler1 said:
Wow, that's not the way to do it. the BEST way to do it is 1. ask to see the invoice. As slow as business is, dealerships are willing to sell them for a few hundred over (on new cars/trucks). 2. RESEARCH your car. Dealers don't go by what they're selling for. Every car has a different story, much like every customer has a different story. The $$ amount we put into cars isn't what they're selling for on the lot or what we THINK they're worth. The black book averages what they are selling for weekly at the larger auctions in the region. There IS a reason behind the $$. There are MANY factors that go into what makes a car worth what it's worth. Rebates/Incentives, gas $, what region you're in, what's selling, etc. Just because they sold one last month doesn't mean it'll be worth the same thing this month. For example, the employee pricing s*** that went on last year and chrysler doing it this year. It KILLED everyone who bought earlier. Cars depreciate from invoice minus all rebates during the end of the model year. Another # to look at is how much/yr did it cost you to own your car? My p5 was 17K. I've had it 3yrs and it's worth 9K. Divide the difference by the #'s of years and the number is 2666/yr. Most people in larger cars have a figure of roughly 5K/yr (if they're lucky). Which isn't bad at all. Most people say "Kelley Blue Book was higher." Really? No s***? Who cares? No one uses kbb. No dealers or banks that I know of use it. Dealers us Black Book and some banks use either Black Book or NADA. The key to buying a car is RESEARCH. There are 2 different values to a car. Actual Cash Value (trade-in) and Sentimental Value. Of course, we all think our cars are worth MUCH more than they actually are. We bought them because we think they're the best thing on the road and yadda yadda yadda. They're nothing but steel. Transportation. Nothing more. I gave a guy with a '01 chevrolet silverado LS with 106K $8500 for his truck yesterday. A 31K truck is now worth 8500. I didn't steal anything from him, that's the ACV of his truck. When people realize that their car is just a machine and nothing more, it will make my job a lot easier. I've heard people say that they're car was worth more because they owed more. So, if you don't owe anything is your car worth nothing? Of course not.
Just because you see a used p5 on a lot for $12K doesn't mean it'll sell for 12K. Hell, even if the person is willing to sign up at 12K + tax, the bank probably won't give them the advance. They're marked up so the buyer can negotiate. People get off on negotiating for some reason.
Another thing to remember. Your car isn't worth "excellent" condition. Most cars (unless they're VERY low miles) are considered average (or good) up to 80K. Then they go to rough. It has nothing to do with how many times you've changed the oil or how clean it is...it's just a fact of life. If you want to get close, do the KBB thing and rate your vehicle as "good." Keep in mind your brakes (if they're bad, deduct around $200), tires ($400), windsheild ($250), etc. All this s*** is taken into consideration when a dealer puts a # on your car.
Well, that's my little rant for the afternoon. Hope that helps!
MP5s Make Ready
Member
- :
- 2002 Red Protege 5
Very good information everyone, I'm glad I can get facts from people who have recently dealt with buying a car and those who actually work at a dealership.
I try to be as understanding when dealing with the sales people. You catch more bees with honey...etc. I just want a fair deal. I don't expect to get 1000s for my car if it's not worth it, and I completely understand the concept of negotiating room when they turn around and list my car for 12,000. They'll probably get 10,500 from the next guy. That still means they'd get at least 1,000K if they gave me what I want for it. This is all speculation however.
In other news I just got an offer for 9,000.
I try to be as understanding when dealing with the sales people. You catch more bees with honey...etc. I just want a fair deal. I don't expect to get 1000s for my car if it's not worth it, and I completely understand the concept of negotiating room when they turn around and list my car for 12,000. They'll probably get 10,500 from the next guy. That still means they'd get at least 1,000K if they gave me what I want for it. This is all speculation however.
In other news I just got an offer for 9,000.
Last edited:
MP5s Make Ready said:
9K is a good amount. I looked at trading my '02 P5 a couple of months ago (40K mi, 5speed, sunroof). I was offered 7500 for it (Nissan dealer). I wanted at least 10K for it. I was shocked and offended and said thanks but no thanks and walked out. I think now if I was offered 8.5 to 9K I think I would take it. Not what I would've wanted but remember it's the final price/deal that counts. Now that gas is bordering on a gazillion dollars a gallon, I think I'll be keeping the car a little longer.
MP5s Make Ready
Member
- :
- 2002 Red Protege 5
I hear what you're saying about privately selling it. However most states give you a break on taxes on the new car if you trade in an old car, plus this is the only car I have. Translates to: Too expensive for me to pay for two cars while I try to sell the one.
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Trading these cars in is definitely not the way to go. Getting 5-8k for our cars is piss poor chump change for the ******* birds. I haven't decided what vehicle I'll get next, but I do know this- I ain't tradin' it in. I will sell it to a private buyer to get my money's worth.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
yeah...if you're not in a hurry & can wait it out, a private sale is always going yo net you more $
carter1551
Member
- :
- 03 Mp5
any trade in the dealer is going to rip you off. just sell it privately or dont sell it at all
well for me I'm going back to carmax and see if they will do the 5.5K again for it and get an 01 GTI for maybe around the same payment.
5.5k for a trade is is crap. KBB says 8K is the best for my mileage and 5.8 is the lowest....... I went to a place that told me I'd be able to private sell mine for 6.5K-7 MAX I laughted my ars off because they had an 03 with the same miles on their lot for 12K...... They got a nice little e-mail when I got home and saw that......
5.5k for a trade is is crap. KBB says 8K is the best for my mileage and 5.8 is the lowest....... I went to a place that told me I'd be able to private sell mine for 6.5K-7 MAX I laughted my ars off because they had an 03 with the same miles on their lot for 12K...... They got a nice little e-mail when I got home and saw that......
totttalled
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Protege5
I just did an Auto Trader search for all 2002 and 2003 Mazda Protege5's.
The search parameters were for within 300 miles of Bakersfield, California, which includes most of California and Las Vegas. Probably the best used car market in America (temperate weather, no salted roads, many cars to choose from).
Any price.
53 P5's total. Average price = $12,005. High was 16,995, low was 5,999.
FYI.
The search parameters were for within 300 miles of Bakersfield, California, which includes most of California and Las Vegas. Probably the best used car market in America (temperate weather, no salted roads, many cars to choose from).
Any price.
53 P5's total. Average price = $12,005. High was 16,995, low was 5,999.
FYI.
- :
- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
got a trade in of 8k for my P5 with 61K on her.......
-R
-R
