Prepping for Pulling a Motor?

S

speed3ster

Member
Well I am beginning to go forged, and would like to hear from the guys that have done this themselves. What things do I need to do to pull the motor out sucessfully? Like coolant and water lines draining them and is it easier to pull the motor from the top or the bottom or through the front?
 
speed3ster said:
Well I am beginning to go forged, and would like to hear from the guys that have done this themselves. What things do I need to do to pull the motor out sucessfully? Like coolant and water lines draining them and is it easier to pull the motor from the top or the bottom or through the front?
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If your asking these questions then you should not attemp it.
 
For me FWD were always easier out the top/ Going out bottom if dropping the whole subframe.

For FWD for me is was easier to pull with ttransmision. Easrt to bolt transmision up/ Some cars we are at about 1.5-2 hours or faster to fo.

An ms3, lots of wire connections. Look at the ac, you dont wan tto open the lines. Usually unbolt compressor from motor see if lines can be moved out of the way.

Yout first time. Take yout timer. PLan for 4 times as much time as you thought. First time will be slow. Honestly, get a Mazda manual or dowenload it. IT will be the best to use.
 
speed3ster said:
My funds are running low, so hence the reason why i would like to do it myself.
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find or make friends with someone who has done a motor pull/swap before then. It's not something you should try if you haven't attempted it before... and could possible cost you MORE money than having a shop do it to begin with. Trust me, it's far worse to have the motor out, then figure out how to get the car and motor to a shop if you cannot figure out the re-installation.
 
My first motor swap i did on my own. Just planned to have extra time. Spent a weekend doing it. After that we have cut it down to a few hours to a day to change out a motor in a car.
The cars i learned on were easier. But i read a manual to get me started. (only 1 year of autoshop, all on motors almost 20 years ago). and well it can be doen with patientce and time.
 
Just did mine, but needed a hand. It's definitely a 2 man job.

I've done a couple swaps before but it's still lots of work bro... just be organized, keep your nuts and bolts in bags/boxes and mark it according to where they belong, mark all hoses and connections with white-out or similar before pulling them off, flush everything out, replace clutch & bearings and resurface flywheel since you're already in there... And yes, you should probably do this with someone that has done it before.
 
nickster said:
Just did mine, but needed a hand. It's definitely a 2 man job.

I've done a couple swaps before but it's still lots of work bro... just be organized, keep your nuts and bolts in bags/boxes and mark it according to where they belong, mark all hoses and connections with white-out or similar before pulling them off, flush everything out, replace clutch & bearings and resurface flywheel since you're already in there... And yes, you should probably do this with someone that has done it before.
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did you pull yours with the tranny still connected to it?..through the top?..bottom? front?
 
From the top with Tranny connected... Unless there's a method that Mazda uses, I don't see how you have room to split the motor. I wanted to keep the tranny in the car and pull the motor alone, that way I wouldn't have to deal with disconnecting axles, but there is no room to clear the clutch.

I know with some cars its easier through the bottom, but it didn't look like it would be with my P5... so I didn't waste anytime and pulled it from the top.
 
Something I was thinking about when doing the job... If I just needed to change the clutch, it seemed like I would have to pull the entire motor out to do it. Like I said earlier, there wasn't enough room to spit the motor and clear the clutch... WTF? Is there a trick to it with this car?
 
Drain coolant, oil, remove all of the wires and vaccum lines and LABEL THEM!!! if you dont label them i can almost guarentee you wont remember where stuff goes, take a few pics of the places that are complicated

Hook up the hoist to the engine, undo the engine mounts, remove what you can while the engine is in the car, like intake mani, turbo mani and turbo, stuff like that. Plus this will make removal alot easier
Take off the axles and related trans bolts/hardware
then once everything is off just hoist it up and put it on something so you can remove the trans, i use a extra tire and put the oil pan into the tire and then remove the trans with an impact wrench, but make sure to support it so it doesnt just fall off

thats about it, its not hard if u have the right tools and some mechanical knowledge
 
nickster said:
Just did mine, but needed a hand. It's definitely a 2 man job.

I've done a couple swaps before but it's still lots of work bro... just be organized, keep your nuts and bolts in bags/boxes and mark it according to where they belong, mark all hoses and connections with white-out or similar before pulling them off, flush everything out, replace clutch & bearings and resurface flywheel since you're already in there... And yes, you should probably do this with someone that has done it before.
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You got the dual-mass flywheel resurfaced?
 
Sport6 said:
You got the dual-mass flywheel resurfaced?
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+1 on the dual-mass... I didn't even know the flywheel was like that. I ended up replaced mine with a 7 pounder.

I mentioned the flywheel resurface since he's on a budget.
 
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